Mrbrylcreem Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hello. Does anyone have a picture of how the brake drum puller should sit on the drum for correct pulling. I would like to purchase one but are unsure which one to get and how it should be fitted correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 scroll on down & you'll see the pic for the drum puller on the tapered shaft axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 ?????? What's a brake drum puller? Been working automotive a long time and never seen a break drum that required a puller. If its stuck on its more likely to break the shoes if you pull on it without adjusting the shoes down. I know on a 1 ton my friend was working on he had to cut the studs on the bottom to free the shoes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 ?????? What's a brake drum puller? Been working automotive a long time and never seen a break drum that required a puller. If its stuck on its more likely to break the shoes if you pull on it without adjusting the shoes down. I know on a 1 ton my friend was working on he had to cut the studs on the bottom to free the shoes Apparently you haven't worked on too many cars built more than 50 years ago. From my page on rear axle seal repair is a brake drum puller: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) It'll sit a bit funny because there are 5 points rather than six if that makes any sense. There is something to be said for what 4mula-dlx has to say about "pulling" a wheel. Although sometimes things are rusted solid and a BFH is required. You will need to get familiar with our brakes. Do you have a copy of the Dodge Truck Manual ? There are some older style pullers (Snap-On was one of the best) but they are kind of bulky and not something you'd carry on a road trip. Mine sits in a slim case that fits under the seat. Good Luck and Welcome to the Forum (doing a search of the topic always helps find things here on P15 D-24) Hank Edited February 7, 2014 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Seen a few brake jobs done in the shop on the oldies and never seen the puller hauled out, learn something new everyday. I'd still start with slacking adjusters to nothing and then a few whalops with that BFH and pull by hand. I find pullers are sometimes more heartache then success... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Seen a few brake jobs done in the shop on the oldies and never seen the puller hauled out, learn something new everyday. I'd still start with slacking adjusters to nothing and then a few whalops with that BFH and pull by hand. I find pullers are sometimes more heartache then success... That's good advice and it is certainly good advise to get things loosened up and working. But things do rust frozen sometimes. But you are right on a car/truck that is in use should not require a great deal of effort to remove the wheel hub. Just today I had to clean-up a heel adjuster that was rusted solid. Doing things slowly and carefully is the way to go. Use penetrating oil where possible and let things have at least 24 hours to soak in. loosen up what ever you can then concentrate on the really stuck parts. Take er' easy, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 4mula-dlx, on 07 Feb 2014 - 01:12 AM, said:Seen a few brake jobs done in the shop on the oldies and never seen the puller hauled out, learn something new everyday. I'd still start with slacking adjusters to nothing and then a few whalops with that BFH and pull by hand. I find pullers are sometimes more heartache then success... you may be in for a surprise...last drums I pulled couple weeks ago I used my heavy duty puller, 5 foot cheater bar and my 200 lbs of brute force and still required two propane torches to the hub (one left and right of the axle) for the drum to pop off...I am not an advocate of using a BFH on the drum and especially not on the end of the jacking screw as damage to the thrust block can occur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 you may be in for a surprise...last drums I pulled couple weeks ago I used my heavy duty puller, 5 foot cheater bar and my 200 lbs of brute force and still required two propane torches to the hub (one left and right of the axle) for the drum to pop off...I am not an advocate of using a BFH on the drum and especially not on the end of the jacking screw as damage to the thrust block can occur Plymouthy Adams, Was this on a vehicle thast was sitting for a long while ? Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I use my hub/drum puller almost every week on everything from 1931 to 1960 Chrysler's, CW Airflows, Dodge and Plymouths and even a few Ramblers. I Have pulled hundreds of these type of drums over the last 40+ years and have have never needed to use heat. I've got a mean swing and a 1" impact gun with a big size hose too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) Yeah.....the drums are set tight to the axle...not like the later rears. When pulling good drums off of an axle, its a benefit to have a puller like that. Its not common to have these come off like the new'uns. 48D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQQvFK4B6pY Edited February 7, 2014 by 48dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Yes..the car had sat for some time...on the average I never have to use anything over a few taps with the hammer on the lug bar...or a little extra pressure using a cheater bar...but a 5 foot bar and 8 lbs sledge was getting me nowhere, thus the application of a bit of heat...I assure you these were the toughest two that I have ever experienced...thus far..! Just mentioning this as they can be rather difficult at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Dodgeb4ya, on 07 Feb 2014 - 01:58 AM, said: I use my hub/drum puller almost every week on everything from 1931 to 1960 Chrysler's, CW Airflows, Dodge and Plymouths and even a few Ramblers. I Have pulled hundreds of these type of drums over the last 40+ years and have have never needed to use heat. I've got a mean swing and a 1" impact gun with a big size hose too! you would have loved these then....be right up your alley....while I have not been doing this on a weekly basis like yourself, I assure you I am no stranger tot he task..send me your huge impact wrench....lol I used to repair air tools for General Dynamics in a former life...have had my hands on those wicked big impact guns that almost require two folks to use...am sure it would have been a big help with these drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) 4mula-dlx, on 07 Feb 2014 - 12:36 AM, said:4mula-dlx, on 07 Feb 2014 - 12:36 AM, said:4mula-dlx, on 07 Feb 2014 - 12:36 AM, said:?????? What's a brake drum puller? Been working automotive a long time and never seen a break drum that required a puller. If its stuck on its more likely to break the shoes if you pull on it without adjusting the shoes down. I know on a 1 ton my friend was working on he had to cut the studs on the bottom to free the shoes Just for the record, many makes of cars use this style rear axle hub combination. Even a number of my foreign cars have the Spicer setup (aka Salisbury) Mopar even continue this axle hub combination with the introduction of the famous 8 3/4 axle in 57 through 64...65 was the introduction of the flanged axle. in the 8 3/4. Just at my place I have many Mopars through 1962, Studebaker, Packard, Sunbeam Tigers, Jensen Interceptor, Volvo 544, all have this setup. One reason I will always have a need for this type puller. Mind you that not all the hubs need be pulled to service the brakes..some are two piece and brake service is simple...but to remove the hub..you will need the puller. Edited February 7, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 I once in awhile have to use my 1" Cleco gun Tim. It is one big bad boy of a gun! Doing this for a living I cannot wait for a day or a week for the drum to take it's time to pop off. Get er done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Cleco was one name I repaired and the big Ingersoll's were another...those Cleco's were quite heavy and a bit more compact than the Ingersoll both were 1 inch drive units..am thinking 1250 FT LB rated if memory serves me correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 All this talk and nobody has mentioned why a puller is required. The drum and the axle have a matched taper. The puller is required to break the taper bond. It is not the brake shoes that require the puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 All this talk and nobody has mentioned why a puller is required. The drum and the axle have a matched taper. The puller is required to break the taper bond. It is not the brake shoes that require the puller. Lmao, if you need a puller to get the shoes off your either in the wrong business, or put the car back in the ocean where you found it I was quite amazed when I took the drums off my old parts 1 ton this fall how easy the drum came, a couple of hits and it was free, and I've seen mechanics whale on drums with hammers and never seen a broke one, but a bad miss can mean a bent backing plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Lmao, if you need a puller to get the shoes off your either in the wrong business, or put the car back in the ocean where you found it I was quite amazed when I took the drums off my old parts 1 ton this fall how easy the drum came, a couple of hits and it was free, and I've seen mechanics whale on drums with hammers and never seen a broke one, but a bad miss can mean a bent backing plate Glad you got a good laugh. I would suggest you re-read what I posted. Where I come from when someone writes "It is not the brake shoes that require the puller" that usually means that no puller is required to remove the shoes. I also suggest you do a bit of research on a MORSE TAPER. When you do so make sure you put your glasses on and read every word carefully. Also where I come from a real mechanic will not whale on brake drums with a hammer. I am glad the drums on your one ton came off easily. Was that one ton a Pilot House? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 All this talk and nobody has mentioned why a puller is required. The drum and the axle have a matched taper. The puller is required to break the taper bond. It is not the brake shoes that require the puller. I kinda said it...sort of....not exactly....but would have counted in horse shoes or hand gernades....lol "Yeah.....the drums are set tight to the axle...not like the later rears." 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Lmao, if you need a puller to get the shoes off your either in the wrong business, or put the car back in the ocean where you found it I was quite amazed when I took the drums off my old parts 1 ton this fall how easy the drum came, a couple of hits and it was free, and I've seen mechanics whale on drums with hammers and never seen a broke one, but a bad miss can mean a bent backing plate The 1 ton trucks don't require the puller to remove the drums. They have a different setup. Only the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks use the tapered axle/drum hub arrangement, which is also used on the cars. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Here we go again.... Drum puller on a DT 1 ton????? My puller is too small for these big 14" drums? What are the six nuts at the end of the brake drum? Whats a shop manual for? I do have a big hammer-should i use that? I'm so confused. There are 2 big nuts insde. What size are they and how do I remove them? Can anyone give me some good advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 advice...take two aspirin and keep out of the shop.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 4Mula-you needed a puller on 1 ton hubs? I thought they were all full floating rears? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 WHOA..... Never said once you need them for the 1 ton brakes just to be clear, and yes those rear drum just remove with the axle removed, but can be as seized as any bad drum... BUT, when I had to replace the front axle in my truck to a 1/2 ton to use the front disc conversion kit I didn't require any puller, I guess just luck and talent. I guess in the land of milk and honey things must go perfect for Don, but in a real world shop they do it all the time, and possibly not in front of a customer but the other 99% of the time a few bangs were enough to free the shoes down from the ridge in the drum. I'll send you some of this Canadian snow Don, put it in a drink.... I think your wound a little tight from my earlier comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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