D11 Mystery Part

[JR-39D11]

Well I do have some clues. It connects to the radiator, it has a wire, I think it might be for the fender lights but I can't determine what it does for them and I can't find it in the wiring diagram.

[Young Ed]

That is a wiring junction block. For an early car before signal lights you'd have parking lights low beam and high beam. For my p15 when adding signals there is a similar 2 wire unit that mounted directly below the 3 wire one.

[JR-39D11]

That is a wiring junction block. For an early car before signal lights you'd have parking lights low beam and high beam. For my p15 when adding signals there is a similar 2 wire unit that mounted directly below the 3 wire one.

 

I can't find it in the wiring diagrams, do you know how it is connected?

[Young Ed]

I can't find it in the wiring diagrams, do you know how it is connected?

 

As its just a junction point I don't think it would be reflected in the wiring diagram. For my p15 its the point where the car harness transitions to the pigtails for the headlights and parking lights. Mine mounts near the radiator.

Edited December 22, 2013 by Young Ed

[Andydodge]

On my Oz D15 it lived on the US drivers side inner fender sheetmetal, just beside the radiator support, you'll probably find a pair of bolt holes matching the part.....andyd

[greg g]

wire for parking lights goes to one terminal, the two leads from the light connect on to the same termial.  The lowbeam lead from the dimmer switch low beam connect to another on with the two leads from the head lamp connected to that one, and the high beam goes to the other, connecting to the two leads for the headlamps.  The order doesn't matter as long as they are connected to the proper lamps.  If you have a lighted circuit probe, you can find which lead is which circuit by powering each in turn.

[JR-39D11]

My lights were wired to bypass this hub through a box which I'm guessing acts like a relay, is this an aftermarket part? I'm not seeing it represented in any of the diagrams, does anyone else have one?

[Old Ray]

 I'm guessing acts like a relay, is this an aftermarket part?

 

Yes and yes, I think,................... and it's older then I am and that's old!

[JR-39D11]

At least I know why I have an unused junction block. I think I'll keep running with the relay even though it adds more complexity to the system.

[Niel Hoback]

    It says there are fuses inside, so it may just be a fuse box, not a relay.

[JR-39D11]

I opened it and my assumption is that it's a solid state relay. I wonder why this was added and what benefit there is to using it.

[Don Coatney]

I opened it and my assumption is that it's a solid state relay. I wonder why this was added and what benefit there is to using it.

Solid state relays were first invented in 1972. That box looks older than that. Also most SSR's do not have a removable cover as there are no moving parts inside. If there were a coil and a set of contact points inside the box then it may be an electromechanical relay. The function of a relay is to use low current to switch a high current load.

[JR-39D11]

It contains two coils, I was incorrect on the definition of solid state.

[greg g]

What are the labels on the bottom of the relay case?  From the picture it appears that the top terminals are ground the uninsulated one on the side, and 2 power in at the top, likely one for low beams and one for high beams.  This would be easily tested with a meter or lighted test probe. The wires going tot he top terminals are likely powered from the dimmer switch.  These would power one of the coils inside the relay.  The relay would then connect power in from the battery to the low and high beam out wires through which ever coil switch was activated.  The parking driving lights are likely not connected through the relay as they are powered from a separate power out on the headlamp switch.  

 

With the headlight switch in the headlamps on position you should be able to hear some clicking at the relay when you cycle the dimmer switch, as the magnets  are powered and released.  Do you have a lighted circuit probe?

 

[JR-39D11]

I do, but I'm rewiring the car from the dash forward right now so I'm not able to test at this time (soon though). This does bring up another question.

On the headlight bulbs does it matter which bulb contact receives the high running power and the High-beam voltage? I'm not sure if it matters which side of the bulb socket receives the red or black wire.

[greg g]

three terminals on the lights 1 for high 1 for low and 1 for ground. input voltage is the same element wattage determines brightness.

Edited January 14, 2014 by greg g

[JR-39D11]

These bulbs only have two post.

[Plymouthy Adams]

my experience with the replacement bulbs have been that they only will go on one way...the three posts are not symmetrical...and the locking base ring is the ground..

[greg g]

still the resistance of the element determines the brightness.  With those bulbs, the ground is to direct from the bulb base to the fixture.  Easy to bench test to determine which contact powers which element.  I guess the discussion would have been more germain if you had mentioned up front you were speaking of non sealed beam lamps,as D11 did not automticalyl connect with bulb and reflector headlamps.The locater pins of the fixture might force the proper alignment of contacts to terminals,

Edited January 14, 2014 by greg g

[JR-39D11]

The bulbs only go in one way and are marked to help ensure you only put them in correctly.  Here's where I'm at with this:

I'm rewiring and had to rebuild the drivers headlight bucket from parts that came with the car, one of the three post that hold the bulb was broken. in the process I no longer know which one of the two wires Red for Highbeam or Black for running went to which post (Base) on the bulb or if it matters.  

 

 

still the resistance of the element determines the brightness.  With those bulbs, the ground is to direct from the bulb base to the fixture.  Easy to bench test to determine which contact powers which element.  I guess the discussion would have been more germain if you had mentioned up front you were speaking of non sealed beam lamps,as D11 did not automticalyl connect with bulb and reflector headlamps.The locater pins of the fixture might force the proper alignment of contacts to terminals,

 

From what Greg says I can measure resistance from the bulb post (Base) to the case to determine which side should be the high, what would I look for higher ohms on the bright side?

[TodFitch]

From what Greg says I can measure resistance from the bulb post (Base) to the case to determine which side should be the high, what would I look for higher ohms on the bright side?

Higher wattage bulbs or filaments have lower resistance.

 

Basically just two equations to remember for this type of work:

Voltage = Current times Resistance (E=IR)

Power = Voltage times Current (P=IE)

 

So the current is voltage divided by resistance (I=E/R)

And the power for a given resistance is P=(E/R)E or E*E/R

 

For a constant voltage, say 6v, your power is inversely proportional to the resistance (P=36/R).

 

But measuring them with a volt-ohm meter might be a bit misleading as the resistance changes with the temperature of the filament (lower temperature is generally lower resistance). And the VOM won't be putting enough power through it to heat them up to a nice white hot glow. So the resistance will be very low for both the high and low beam, lower than many low cost VOMs can measure accurately.

[Old Ray]

I think it would less complicated to hook up a test battery and two leads, one to ground (base) and if you sight it right into your eye, the light / contact  that is the brightest is the high beam!

[greg g]

Amen!!!!  Even with sunglasses on one should be able to see the difference with an Eyeball mark 1 original equipment.  Or I guess you could figure it out with meters and math and stuff if your gray matter needs additional exercise.  

Edited January 15, 2014 by greg g