Factory Brake and Fuel Line Routing

[HanksB3B]

Well the hard work finally paid off.  The fuel filter did not leak. I loosened the glass bowl retainer till it leaked, then tightened it up just a bit and it stopped. 

 

If you followed the "Diagnose This" thread you'll know that initially I had an  idle orrifice that seemed to be clogged with teflon, but I now believe it was residual gas tank coating that without a fuel filter, made it to carburetor. I was told by a speed shop to never use teflon on fuel lines but I'm not buying into that. I tried the Oatley joint compound he recommended and just didn't like using it.  A couple things I recently learned from Don Duffy an 83 year old retired hydraulic engineer in the petroleum industry, was when wrapping the teflon, turn the nut in the direction that it tightens and trim the teflon back one thread as you can see in the picture above. 

 

The engine is running better and smoother than ever.  The aluminum vacuum line works and is tight but I plan to finalize it in copper only because the 3/16" Copper Nickel line is only available in 25' lengths (I need a little over 3').  I plan to make some cleaner bends and run it around the front of the head. I plan on replacing my water pump with a recently rebuilt one and now is probably a good time to do both at the same time.

 

The waterpump seems to be one of those parts that advanced auto engineering would have improved.

 

It sure was nice driving down to the beach at sunset under full smooth power.  I'll intermitantly keep looking at the fuel line and the glass bowl.  From what I learned and observed I think it's mandatory to sand the glass lip and mating surface to assure a leak free sustainable in line glass bowl fuel filter.

 

Hank    

Edited December 21, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Don Coatney]

Hank;

Your work looks good but The Teflon tape should only be used on tapered pipe threads and not used on flare fittings as the flare does the seal not the threads. I cannot tell from your photo but Teflon tape should have been used on the brass fitting that screws into the fuel filter as that is tapered pipe threads.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

Glad you had success. Did you check to see if the fuel in the glass bowl percolated or boiled at all after you shut down?

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Hank;

Glad you had success. Did you check to see if the fuel in the glass bowl percolated or boiled at all after you shut down?

 

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff. I don't think it's hot enough out right now to see that happening.  Come next August that might change and I'll convert it to a Keurig coffee maker.  I think I now have the plumbing skills required.

 

Hank 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I see you do not have the 4 correct brass countersunk washers and cone nuts on the ends of your exhaust manifold. To prevent your exhaust manifold from cracking at the ends you should consider fixing this and replacing those old thin rusty standard washers and nuts with the factory Mopar type washers and slotted cone nuts. There are previous threads on this issue.

I see you are very meticulus in your repairs. So maybe this is another fun repair to do!

Bob

Edited December 21, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[HanksB3B]

Bob,

 

Thanks so much for mentioning that.  I just finished spraying PB Blaster on those manifold nuts and yes I have the special washers. My engine rebuilder's yard man jumped the gun and installed the manifold before I could say anything. I have a truck manual. Is there is a page that says what goes where ? I have been re-doing a few things that could have been done better (like my recently completed fuel line). I appreciate any links or page numbers and I really appreciate you pointing that out to me.

 

Thanks,

 

Hank   

[Dodgeb4ya]

Here's some location pics of all the special nuts and washers Hank! Lots of rebuilders do not know of these unique factory installed washers and nuts used at the manifold ends.

Hope this helps.

Bob

[ggdad1951]

BTW, VPW carries these parts if you need anything

[HanksB3B]

Thanks guys,

I looked through both the Dodge Truck and Parts manuals and there isn't a picture of the manifold for the smaller series trucks. I'm guessing it was Don Coatney or another P15 D24 owner that posted both of these;

 

 

 

 

Since my truck's manifold is not bolted up properly, I'll have to dig in a bit and find out what studs, bolts nuts and washers go where.  Between the pictures attached, a forum search, the following previously copied info and a call to VPW I should be able to figure it out. I do have new gaskets, my right side inner fender is still off from the fuel line routing and I'd like to cold set my valves. I'm stiil amazed by Merle's video using the tappet wrenches and adjusting valves with the engine while running (I'm just not ready for that yet)  

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

Exhaust Manifold Special Nuts

 

Manifold Nuts

Assembly as pictured in Master parts Book
see both photos for details.

Manifold stud nut:
intake part # 114547 brass nut (9)
exhaust part # 623370 slotted cone shaped nut (4) 

Manifold stud washer:
exhaust part #623368 collar washer (4) 
clamp part # 43699 slightly dished flat washer (4)

 

Intake uses the slightly dished washer and the (non) slotted nut.
Exhaust uses the "slotted" nut and the "collar" style washer. See attached pictures for details.
 

Just 4 at the outer ends on a 6cyl. Then across the top there's 4 nuts with thick washers to bridge the cap between the two manifolds. The rest are plain nuts on studs. Some do have bolts instead of the 2 long studs.

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

(the above info looks like  it need a little more study on my part before I can make it a shopping list)

 

Mark does VPW seel everything as a "kit" or do I have to order the parts separately?

 

Thanks,

 

Hank 

[ggdad1951]

I think you could tell them what you are doing and they'd kit it up for you

[Barry Maxwell]

Thanks guys,

I looked through both the Dodge Truck and Parts manuals and there isn't a picture of the manifold for the smaller series trucks. I'm guessing it was Don Coatney or another P15 D24 owner that posted both of these;

 

05.jpg 06.jpg

 

 

Since my truck's manifold is not bolted up properly, I'll have to dig in a bit and find out what studs, bolts nuts and washers go where.  Between the pictures attached, a forum search, the following previously copied info and a call to VPW I should be able to figure it out. I do have new gaskets, my right side inner fender is still off from the fuel line routing and I'd like to cold set my valves. I'm stiil amazed by Merle's video using the tappet wrenches and adjusting valves with the engine while running (I'm just not ready for that yet)  

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

Exhaust Manifold Special Nuts

 

Manifold Nuts

Assembly as pictured in Master parts Book

see both photos for details.

Manifold stud nut:

intake part # 114547 brass nut (9)

exhaust part # 623370 slotted cone shaped nut (4) 

Manifold stud washer:

exhaust part #623368 collar washer (4) 

clamp part # 43699 slightly dished flat washer (4)

 

Intake uses the slightly dished washer and the (non) slotted nut.

Exhaust uses the "slotted" nut and the "collar" style washer. See attached pictures for details.

 

Just 4 at the outer ends on a 6cyl. Then across the top there's 4 nuts with thick washers to bridge the cap between the two manifolds. The rest are plain nuts on studs. Some do have bolts instead of the 2 long studs.

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

(the above info looks like  it need a little more study on my part before I can make it a shopping list)

 

Mark does VPW seel everything as a "kit" or do I have to order the parts separately?

 

Thanks,

 

Hank 

 

 

 

Hank:

The VPW 2011-2012 catalog shows an Intake/Exhaust Manifold Mounting Kit for $60 on page 16.

Barry

[Dodgeb4ya]

I thought I posted a picture or two of the smaller 218/230 engine manifolds and where the four 1/4" thick counter sunk brass washers and slotted cone nuts go.

Even the longer 237,251 and 265  domestic engines use the same orientation as for where the bolts studs and nuts go.

[ggdad1951]

here a go Hank:

You can see most of the proper stuff here

Edited December 23, 2013 by ggdad1951

[HanksB3B]

Hank;

Your work looks good but The Teflon tape should only be used on tapered pipe threads and not used on flare fittings as the flare does the seal not the threads. I cannot tell from your photo but Teflon tape should have been used on the brass fitting that screws into the fuel filter as that is tapered pipe threads.

 

Mark thanks for posting the pictures. Off this topic, I see you have a hose then a pipe then a hose on the bottom radiator fitting.  Is this the way it was? 

 

Don thanks I didn't notice this post untill now as there was already a page five on this thread and I missed it.  I knew it was one or the other and what you say makes total sense. I used all new brass nuts and tapered fittings from the same manufacturer and found very little need for teflon. I will follow your lead and use the teflon on the tapered fittings.

 

 

Looks like I have some inventory. Have the four special nuts 9-48-44 haven't located the special brass washer 9-48-45 but I'm hopeful I either have them somewhere I haven't looked yet or that they ended up somewhere they don't belong on the manifold as well as the "thick washers". Can't wait to work on the truck tomorrow...wife's at work...we'll see what I can accomplish I still have a laundy list of little stuff to do. 

 

Barry, Hopefully I won't have to go the $60 route.

 

As far as removal goes, I'll give them another shot of PB Blaster, do a little tapping then try to remove them with a ratchet. If there are any stubborn ones I think if I go easy my little Makita impact wrench is a good way to go.  

 

Thanks, 

 

Hank 

Edited December 23, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Young Ed]

Mark thanks for posting the pictures. Off this topic, I see you have a hose then a pipe then a hose on the bottom radiator fitting.  Is this the way it was? 

 

Don thanks I didn't notice this post untill now as there was already a page five on this thread and I missed it.  I knew it was one or the other and what you say makes total sense. I used all new brass nuts and tapered fittings from the same manufacturer and found very little need for teflon. I will follow your lead and use the teflon on the tapered fittings.

 

 

Looks like I have some inventory. Have the four special nuts 9-48-44 haven't located the special brass washer 9-48-45 but I'm hopeful I either have them somewhere I haven't looked yet or that they ended up somewhere they don't belong on the manifold as well as the "thick washers". Can't wait to work on the truck tomorrow...wife's at work...we'll see what I can accomplish I still have a laundy list of little stuff to do. 

 

Barry, Hopefully I won't have to go the $60 route.

 

As far as removal goes, I'll give them another shot of PB Blaster, do a little tapping then try to remove them with a ratchet. If there are any stubborn ones I think if I go easy my little Makita impact wrench is a good way to go.  

 

Thanks, 

 

Hank 

 

Hank if you are only short a few let me know I bet I can dig some up.

[TodFitch]

Off this topic, I see you have a hose then a pipe then a hose on the bottom radiator fitting.  Is this the way it was? 

It was for Plymouth in the 1930s. From the '36-'48 parts book it looks like the practice lasted until at least the P15 era. Seems likely they'd do the  same on the truck side of things.

[Merle Coggins]

Yes Hank, Marks truck is set up the same as mine on the lower radiator hose. Two straight hoses with an elbow pipe in between. And that's how I've seen every other one.

 

Merle

[wallytoo]

Mark thanks for posting the pictures. Off this topic, I see you have a hose then a pipe then a hose on the bottom radiator fitting. Is this the way it was?

Hank

hank,

staying off-topic, i've attached a picture from my '48. you can just see the pipe section, along with the fitting for heat (which, judging by the threaded section, and brazing, appears to have been added at some point and not the "correct" location).

wally

Edited December 23, 2013 by wallytoo

[HanksB3B]

Is the "elbow" something readily available as a plumbing part (is it copper?) you can buy let's say at ace hardware ? Not using it and using just a piece of rubber hose may have stressed the cast iron fitting and be part of the reason that the cast iron piece (is it an inlet of an outlet) at the bottom of my radiatior is pretty much rotted out. I have a minor drip around the radiator tank that necessitates dipping my finger into the tank to see that there is plenty of coolant. I want to take this to a good radiator shor to someone that knows what they are doing.

 

Does anyone have the elbow out of their truck currently and could please give me dimensions.

 

P.O.'s have me PO'd,

 

Thanks,

 

Hank  (only at this though) otherwise 

[ggdad1951]

which elbow, the one on the bottom of the tank or the one inline?  Neither is a standard part.  The on in-line I got from VPW and it is steel.  I think Roberts carries them as well.

[TodFitch]

which elbow, the one on the bottom of the tank or the one inline?  Neither is a standard part.  The on in-line I got from VPW and it is steel.  I think Roberts carries them as well.

And maybe, someday, I will get one of those. But for the last 40 years I've been using a copper elbow I picked up at a hardware store. Painted it black to make it less obvious and, so far, no one has pointed it out to me as being wrong.

[wallytoo]

which elbow, the one on the bottom of the tank or the one inline? Neither is a standard part. The on in-line I got from VPW and it is steel. I think Roberts carries them as well.

not sure what you mean by "not a standard part"?

the tube is listed in the parts manual - tube, outlet, #854420

in fact, there is at least one listing on ebay right now - keyword "mopar 854420".

[ggdad1951]

not sure what you mean by "not a standard part"?

the tube is listed in the parts manual - tube, outlet, #854420

in fact, there is at least one listing on ebay right now - keyword "mopar 854420".

 

standard as a standard plumbing part for the hardware store.  Yes they are "standard/original" to the trucks.

[Don Coatney]

I replaced my rusted up hunk of pipe with a stainless tubing elbow. Works great and will last longer than my lifetime.

 

 

[wallytoo]

standard as a standard plumbing part for the hardware store. Yes they are "standard/original" to the trucks.

ahhh. ok.