new 1950 b2b project

[bondvagabond]

Hello all, I've been lurking here for a few weeks, finally was able to go get my 1950 b2b drug home so I can start working on it. Its been parked since 04 so I am going through the fuel system and brakes for sure. The battery in it tested okay on my load tester so lucked out there, it may be newer. Got the carb taken apart and cleaned and reasembled last night.

I had read on here that the fuel tank should have a drain on it, the only thing mine has is this wacky torx drive looking thing on the bottom, is that it? What kind of tool goes on that, cause im pretty sure they didnt have torx back then :-)

Next question is what to do about my rear axle. It is locked up. I figure I will loosen the ebrake to make sure it is not that, then try to pull the drums. Worried that this will be even harder than normal if brake shoes are stuck to drum either from corosion or brake shoes being swollen from leaky wheel cyl. And it means I need to get the proper puller since I cant do the loosen and drive trick. Any advice on this one would be greatly appreciated.

Also, the accelorator pump linkage has been fabricated from a nail. If someone could tell me the length of that linkage from center of the holes it goes into that would be awesome so I could verify my nail was properly machined :-)

Other than that she is in good shape. 3 cancer spots aabout the size of my hand. Green cab with black bed. Big dent on the grill I will need to beat out and wrinkled driver front fender from the same push. Willpost picks when I figure out how.

[ggdad1951]

Welcome!  Post some pictures...we are picture whores!

[bondvagabond]

I am the same way. Here is one pic to wet your whistles. Just found the good kind of drum puller in an abandoned shed on the family farm. Commin up roses today!

[bondvagabond]

Oops try again

[P15-D24]

Welcome to the site!

[ggdad1951]

did someone remove the fender rivets at some point?

[NiftyFifty]

did someone remove the fender rivets at some point?

Don't you mean the rust multipliers

If your really bad off the get the drums off you can cut the studs that hold the shoes, but not sure what the supply is like for new ones. Welcome to the forum, great bunch of guys and a Helluva lotta information!

[B1B Keven]

Welcome! Grants Pass area?

 

There's a member in Roseburg getting rid of some brake parts.

[pflaming]

Remove the drive shaft then you can 'move' the wheels.  That truck has beautiful paint under neath that oxidization. Welcome to the forum, there are some old guys, some young guys, a great girl, and some 'bad guys'. So it's a normal forum. 

[HanksB3B]

I had read on here that the fuel tank should have a drain on it, the only thing mine has is this wacky torx drive looking thing on the bottom, is that it? What kind of tool goes on that, cause im pretty sure they didnt have torx back then :-)

 

VagaBond,

 

Welcome to the forum and congratulations. Your Saturdays for the next two years are now shot. My gas tank is out of my truck and   chances are you are going to have to do what I'm doing in this thread:

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/34704-gas-tank-removal-fuel-gauge-sending-unit-service/

 

Personally I would not mess with that torx or whatchmacallit drain plug.  The gas tanks are very soft steel and you might risk the possibility of twisting out a portion of your tank.  You'll want to do more than just drain it. At a minimum it needs to be boiled out at your local radiator shop and the inside visually inspected.  Theoretically, you could strip all paint surroungind that plug, Dremel drill to clean bare metal use penetrating oil and an air impact tool, not to remove the plug but to vibrate and break-up the rust crystals before trying to remove the plug with the correct tool.  Gas tanks are precious in that they are hard to find and about $300  if you can find a suitable aftermarket tank.

 

Good Luck with your project,

 

Hank  

Edited November 21, 2013 by HanksB3B

[48Dodger]

I cut into a 1950 tank back in 09/10 while building my race truck.

The crap on the bottom was amazing. The old gas had turned to hard black varnish. It sucked in all the dust and rust it could find. 

The pick-up tube is what I find the most intersting. It comes from the front of the tank, DOWN at and angle, to the center. The last 3 or so inches bend striaght down with a 90 deg elbow. The tank in the thread Im sharing, had pin holes in the elbow. And the distance from the bottom of the tank to the pick up tube was maybe a 1/4 inch. Why they didn't just put a bathtub type exit at the bottom of the tank is anyone's guess.   

 

48D

 

Gas Tank anatomy

Edited November 21, 2013 by 48dodger

[Merle Coggins]

I believe that "torx" type plug is actually a double square, 8 point, plug. It probably will fit on a 1/2" drive ratchet or extension. But like Hank says, you may not want to mess with it. These tank have a tendency to rust out along the top front corner. It's probably best to drop it down and fully inspect it, clean it, repaint it, and reinstall it.

 

Merle

[bondvagabond]

I figured out the gas tank plug 1/2 inch ratchet thing yesterday afternoon, gas comming out didnt look bad, finger inside felt bare metal on bottom. So think I may have lucked out. Outside of tank is cleaner than any on the old junk I have worked on, im guesing someone has been through it.

Got cleaned and adjusted carb reinstalled and freed up old rusty spark plugs without snapping any off. With a little marvels down each spark plug hole and the battery connections cleaned, she turns over nicely.

[bondvagabond]

Have wheel cylinder repair kits

Master cyl repair kit

Breaker points

Oil filter

Spark plugs coming from rock auto.

Little wheel nut that holds fuel filter glass bowl on is stuck tight

Need to get that free so I can clean out and blow out fuel lines.

Anyone have a line on the roseburg oregon member who is selling brake parts?

[bondvagabond]

I looked up my engine code and I have a 218 unless someone has swapped internals. Will check stroke when I put new plugs in.

No luck finding a differential tag, will have to wait till I get the rear brakes freed up to find out what axle ratio I have.

[HanksB3B]

Moving right along are you...

 

Great !

 

Hank 

[Jeff Balazs]

Welcome......Nice looking truck. If you have not already ........ buy stock in a penetrating oil supplier like PB Blaster. You will understand as you get farther into your project.

A lot of us have done rear axle swaps. There are lots of reasons......cost, better ratios for modern driving, disc brakes etc. If you think you are going to go that route read up on the threads here. I believe there are driveshaft and U-joint issues on the earlier trucks which can complicate the swap. Best to be certain of all the ramifications before making any decision.

 

Have fun with your new truck.

Jeff

[Merle Coggins]

 Will check stroke when I put new plugs in..

 

You can't measure the piston stroke through the spark plug holes. The spark plugs are over the valves. To measure the stroke you need to remove the small 1/8" pipe plug over #6 cylinder.

 

Merle

[Don Coatney]

 Will check stroke when I put new plugs in.

 

 

You will find a pipe plug in the head above the #6 piston. This plug is used to verify the engine stroke by inserting a wire at least 12 inches long into the hole. Then find TDC and BDC and measure the difference. The spark plugs are located directly above the intake valves.

 

 

[B1B Keven]

Anyone have a line on the roseburg oregon member who is selling brake parts?

You've got a PM (Private Message).

[bondvagabond]

Got the rear drums removed.

Brake shoes look good, and no obvious signs that the wheel cylinders were leaking. Master cylinder was quite low, so I obviously have a leak somewhere. Will wait till my rebuild kits come in to mess with that. Supposedly 3-6 days.

Fixed driver door exterior handle. It was pulling out so I made a retainer with a hose clamp and a washer.

I removed the driver headlight bucket so I can start pounding out the dented grill and drivers fender.

Spun the drive shaft to figure out rear end ratio. 4.10

Got the fuel filter nut freed up and cleaned out.

Tomorrow if I get a chance I will pull the front drums and start pulling brake cyl. In preparation for rebuilding.

[Desotodav]

See attached to find ratio indicator on diff...

[bondvagabond]

Thanks for the pic, I was looking for a seperate tin tag like on modern cars. Will scrape some goo off in that location and have a look see.

Got some fresh gas today for the old fella. Im going to try to hotwire it to see if it'll run. To heck with waiting for PO to find keys. If my positive battery cable goes to the starter then it means someone had converted it from + ground to - ground and I just connect wire from coil + to battery like normal right? Havent messed with + ground systems at all.

[HanksB3B]

Thanks for the pic, I was looking for a seperate tin tag like on modern cars. Will scrape some goo off in that location and have a look see.

Got some fresh gas today for the old fella. Im going to try to hotwire it to see if it'll run. To heck with waiting for PO to find keys. If my positive battery cable goes to the starter then it means someone had converted it from + ground to - ground and I just connect wire from coil + to battery like normal right? Havent messed with + ground systems at all.

 

I've yet to see any stamp on mine. Have cleaned the designated area but no stamp found on my 1951 B3B differential.

 

Hope you find yours,

 

Hank  

[ggdad1951]

mine was there....just REALLY hard to read...