54Illinois Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 Castle nut on the 54 Plymouth cracked, holding the drum on. What size is it? I know I should be able to pick one up fairly easy. Thanks! Quote
RobertKB Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) They are fine thread and fairly large, 1 1/4". If you have trouble finding one locally, PM me. Edited October 7, 2013 by RobertKB Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 Try McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#castellated-nuts/=otzm6q 1 Quote
TodFitch Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 Don't know about 1954 models, but Plymouth used the same rear axle castle nut from 1928 through at least 1948: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#53553 Quote
TodFitch Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 Try McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#castellated-nuts/=otzm6q Looks like they have grade 2 and stainless nuts in the correct size. My guess is grade 2 would be correct. That is based on two items. First, the original does not seem to be made of all that hard a material and is definitely not stainless. And second, stainless can gaul. Anybody else have a guess as to the better one to use? ===================== Edit: Looks like Dorman also has them so they should be available at a good auto supply: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32738-615-016.aspx?year=1953&make=Plymouth&model=Belvedere&parttype=Spindle%20Nut Interesting that Dorman suggests that they are one time use only and should be replaced each time. Next question: I think the washer needed under the nut is called a spindle washer. McMaster does have listing for spindle washers. Dorman does not specify which spindle washer is correct for your '54 but I am wondering if this one is close enough: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24410-618-061.aspx?year=1963&make=Plymouth&model=Belvedere&parttype=Spindle%20Nut%20Washer Quote
_shel_ny Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 Don't know about 1954 models, but Plymouth used the same rear axle castle nut from 1928 through at least 1948: my parts book shows Plym 28-54 (book stops at 54) Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 L, stainless can gaul. Having worked with stainless hardware most of my working life while in the food industry it has been my experince that threaded stainless nuts are most likely to gaul when used with stainless bolts, Stainless nuts used with non stainless steel bolts are much less likely to gaul. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 amen to galling...use monel.... Quote
RobertKB Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 McMaster Carr show theirs as being 1 1/8". Any that I have are 1 1/4". Can someone else measure theirs and see what they have? Quote
_shel_ny Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 McMaster Carr show theirs as being 1 1/8". Any that I have are 1 1/4". Can someone else measure theirs and see what they have? Spare fronts 1 1/16". spare rear 1 1/4" Quote
TodFitch Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 The ones on the rear of my '33 measure 1 1/8 (see link I posted above to http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#53553 ) I guess mine could have been swapped out at some time but I suspect not. According to my parts book the nut should be the same one through '48 and by shel_bizzy_48's part book lists the same nut from '28 through '54. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 7, 2013 Report Posted October 7, 2013 odds are this nut continued through the end of the taper axles in 64 Quote
Scruffy49 Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 I'll try and pop one off my scrap axle for you. Swapping the truck rear out, whole tapered mess is going to the melt yard. Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 Unless I'm guessing wrong, everyone posting sizes is measuring the outside of the nut, which can vary by manufacturer and thread pitch Nuts and bolts are listed by thread size and turns per inch. 3/4" fine thread? Quote
RobertKB Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Someone had put the wrong nut on one of the axles of '51 Dodge business coupe project long before I got it and I don't believe it was metric. I had a terrible time getting it off. It looked the same thread as the factory nut and the threads on the axles looked OK but an original nut would not go back on. So you have to be careful as the threads on the axle may be unique, as in oddball thread pitch, to Chrysler products. Sounds crazy but it is not quite as straightforward as it may appear. Edited October 8, 2013 by RobertKB Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) When in a situation similar to Robert, a thread file is a fantastic tool to have on hand..also the/an original nut can be started in place and using a hammer while supporting the opposite flat with a hand dolly you can tap the nut flats and reshape the threads as you go..you would be quite surprised at how well this method will work on threads that are slightly buggered..not a cure all for all ails and wounds but will allow the nut to spin on and off with no issue if you take you time and work it properly.. Edited October 8, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Desotodav Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 I must live a sheltered life as I'd never even heard of a thread file until I sought advice from an engineering friend after finding a stripped axle thread a few years back when my diff returned from a rebuild. I went out and bought both metric and imperial ones and now don't know how I survived without them. Sure made easy work of fixing the thread on my rear axle way back then. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 8, 2013 Report Posted October 8, 2013 I have had a thread file in my toolbox for a lot of years. Used it many times. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted October 10, 2013 Report Posted October 10, 2013 Someone had put the wrong nut on one of the axles of '51 Dodge business coupe project long before I got it and I don't believe it was metric. I had a terrible time getting it off. It looked the same thread as the factory nut and the threads on the axles looked OK but an original nut would not go back on. So you have to be careful as the threads on the axle may be unique, as in oddball thread pitch, to Chrysler products. Sounds crazy but it is not quite as straightforward as it may appear. When I needed a new castle nut for a 1939 axle I just went to the local hardware store and bought one . It was a common thread . Quote
RobertKB Posted October 10, 2013 Report Posted October 10, 2013 It would be nice to hear from the original poster to see what he has found or managed to pick up somewhere. Car 54Illinois where are you? Quote
TodFitch Posted October 10, 2013 Report Posted October 10, 2013 It would be nice to hear from the original poster to see what he has found or managed to pick up somewhere. Car 54Illinois where are you? Somehow I just focused on "Car 54 where are you?" Maybe I'm too old too. . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqkcWCXTtFk Quote
50 coupe Posted October 10, 2013 Report Posted October 10, 2013 Thread file? I always just used an only pocket knife blade. Who Knew?? Oh well, now I have an excuse for another new tool. Quote
54Illinois Posted October 12, 2013 Author Report Posted October 12, 2013 Cripes! I just got the car back...gotta pull the nut and head to NAPA, after Iron Invasion tomorrow! Quote
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