Drive Shaft Question

[Don Jordan]

I changed the U joints in my P 15. I took the drive shaft off. When I was finished I put it back. My next door neighbor asked me if I marked it before I took it off. I told him no - I have never done that before. He said then the shaft could be out of balance. I've never heard of that. I went out for a drive the other day and when I got up to speed I heard a growl. I didn't notice any vibration just a deep sound. It's not the engine. Tomorrow I'm going to check the wheel bearings. If I did screw up how to I unscrew it? Do I need to go to a machine shop and have the shaft turned? I try so hard to do things right and just can't seem to get it right.

It's not the cars fault. I still adore my car and love driving it. Many know my frustration I'm sure.

[Plymouthy Adams]

question before you go chasing a rabbit...was the growl there before you messed with the driveshaft? 

[Merle Coggins]

Just removing the drive shaft to replace the joints shouldn't change anything unless you seperated it at the slip joint. Then you need to get that joint back together correctly or the u-joints will be out of phase. I wonder if that's what your neighbor meant.

 

Merle

[Don Coatney]

Did you finally get the bell housing brackets installed correctly? If not that may cause a slight missalignment with possible noise. Also the noise may be associated with the throw out bearing if it is riding the pressure plate fingers.

[Don Jordan]

Okay - to answer questions: the noise was not there before. I had a drip in the diff. when I took the drive shaft off to replace the seal I noticed that the U joint bearings were wasted and replaced them. I did get the bell housing brackets on so that is not a concern. I don't know what Merle means about separating the slip joints. I removed the two bearings and the pin and replaced them. My neighbor was saying the drive shaft had to go back on the same way it came off. I'd never heard that before. I'm going back to recheck my work. Finally when I get it to run right something else goes wrong.

thanks for the input.

[desoto1939]

Basically when you take down the driveshaft for another reason sya to just do a pinion seal you should make the alignment of the housing on the u joint to a specif bolt hole on the pinion flange to insure that you are putting back in the same spot.

 

This is to help prevent you from getting any vibration because you chnaged the way the DS way attached to the housing and the DS then is back to the original position.

 

But since you have replaced the pin and all of the internals that would make it a little harder.  Did you replace the outer metal hosuing along with the inner parts?  I do not think you would get a growl from the Ujoint but a thunk sound is insatlled incorrectly.  Did you refillthe differentail with enought fluid.

Growling could bea wheel bearing or low fluid maybe in the trans>  Just point to check.

Did you force the pinion yoke on with a hammer or use any tool to insatll it.  You might have it insatlled to far and the pinion gear might be growly on the ring gear, just another thought.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Dodgeb4ya]

Did you replace the pinion seal in the rear end- I take it you did. Maybe a pinion bearing noise? How did you re-tighten the pinion nut? Did you mark the yoke to the pinion shaft?

Also how did you press in the trunnion pin into the driveshaft? They press in hard with about .006" end to end tolerance. On all the newer cars I always mark the drive lines./halfshafts to the yokes and hubs, not on these old plymouths altough it's a good practice to do so.

[Don Jordan]

Okay - for those still following my exploits I got a great flash today. There is not a straight line from the differential to the transmission. The diff is slightly to the right. I panicked and called my friend over. He said that was normal. I guess you're never to old to learn.

I don't have my parts book in front of me so I'm not sure of the nomenclature so please bear with me.

1) I got the bearings and dust cover from Bernbaum. I don't know if I mentioned when I tried to get the pin in I couldn't get it to fit. I took it to my local machine shop and they told me it was about .008" too long.

2) I took out and replaced the seal in the diff. My friend said there might be a sleeve that I need to get for the piece that goes into the diff.

I have to go - pressing meeting - I will come back later with all the right words.

Thank you all for your patience. I've just retired and I hate it.

[greg g]

The pinion nut needs lots of torque to put it back in proper place.  Your grumble may be coming from the pinion gear not being aligned with  the ring gear in the diff. My manual says 170 #'s. then check the force needed to turn the diff should be 25 to 30 inch pounds.  If more than that back off the pinion nut, till that reading is achieved.

 

The should also be a gap between the yoke dust shield and the casting of the diff.  If its too close it maybe tourching and causing your grumble.

Edited August 30, 2013 by greg g

[Plymouthy Adams]

25-30 inch pounds are for just the ring and pinion..does not include axles etc....

[Don Jordan]

This was my fault - I did not use a torque wrench - I just pulled down hard enough that the car moved. I'm thinking what I might do is put the car on jack stands, start it, put it in gear and see what happens.

The ironic thing is it still leaks at the new seal. I would truly hate to have to take it all apart again.

Also I'm noticing differences between the 47 and the 48. The starters are slightly different and the solenoid is different. Do they still sell solenoids at the parts store?

One more thing (sorry)- at the bottom of the diff is a plug. My friend said it could be an adjustment screw - I thought it is a drain plug. I took it out to drain the diff. Is there some sort of setting on that. I looked in the parts book and didn't even see it listed.

[Don Jordan]

This could be a freshman mistake but the yoke doesn't look flush. Would that cause a noise? I can't believe I would have left it like that. I'll check it out again tomorrow.

[P15-D24]

Seal doesn't look straight to me.

[Merle Coggins]

  On 8/30/2013 at 3:34 AM, Don Jordan said:

One more thing (sorry)- at the bottom of the diff is a plug. My friend said it could be an adjustment screw - I thought it is a drain plug. I took it out to drain the diff. Is there some sort of setting on that. I looked in the parts book and didn't even see it listed.

 

Some differentials have an adjustable thrust screw that goes against the back side of the ring gear where it meshes with the pinion gear. If you messed with that it could now be contacting the ring gear and making noise. There should be a slight gap between the screw and the gear. Can you post a picture of the plug in question? The drain plug should be in the very bottom of the axle housing. The level plug is usually in the diff carrier housing. Any thrust screw would also be in line with the center of the pinion.

 

It's possible that the dust cover of your pinion flange is just bent. That would account for the missallignment look.

 

Merle

[_shel_ny]

  On 8/30/2013 at 3:59 AM, P15-D24 said:

Seal doesn't look straight to me.

 

Did not look straight in pic from earlier thread as noted by the OP

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/33390-differential-advice-just-look/

[_shel_ny]

  On 8/30/2013 at 3:34 AM, Don Jordan said:

Also I'm noticing differences between the 47 and the 48. The starters are slightly different and the solenoid is different. Do they still sell solenoids at the parts store?

 

 

 

Solenoid should be available through most parts stores.

 

Rock Auto $14

Advance $15

NAPA  $22

Oldmoparts $42.50

Collectorsautosupply $120

You would need to buy 2 as the new one may not match either of the ones that you have. Same with the starters, may have to buy 2.

[Don Jordan]

Shel - thank you. I'm off to the parts store.

I will take a pix of the diff after I do chores.