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Posted

Doing lots of little necessary things. This morning I partially installed new rear shoes.  Need tool to stretch the springs. 

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Posted
4 minutes ago, pflaming said:

Doing lots of little necessary things. This morning I partially installed new rear shoes.  Need tool to stretch the springs. 

 

I have at least 4 versions of that tool.  Haven't use them in years.  In a pinch one can usually get them in place with a long Philips head screwdriver used as a lever.  Through the end of the spring and in the target hole.  Pull it up and guide the spring hood with another straight screwdriver.  slip, drop and repeat until it finally slides in.

  • Like 1
Posted

A  sharp pointed awl works fast and accurate to install brake springs.

Use one all the time especially on center plane brakes.

Posted

Overall update.. I cleaned and put in a new carburetor kit.  Now starts immediately. Once rear brakes completed and lines bled, then can test drive and get to CHP, so mechanically very close. Same with the Sportster, just received needed new engine mount so that in and engine installed that is ready for CHP also. So I’m slowly getting there. 
 

my body strength and endurance has taken a huge dip since my 80th birthday.  8 hr days are history! 

  • Like 1
Posted

Brake shoe adjustment tool. I’ll put tape on the shoe for my feeler gauge and set it thusly. Should be accurate enough.

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  • Like 3
Posted

1) bottom pivot adjustment bolts too large for new shoes, Emory cloth and elbow grease worked, 2) shoes too large for drums, drums at machine shop, back tomorrow evening, scratch $30 for the pair. 
 

questions, are these normal problems? 

Posted (edited)

I would have taken material off the shoes and not the drums. I’ve had the same problem and took the shoes back and had a bit removed. I could do this as there is a place in town that relines shoes as well as turns drums. They just made the linings a bit thick. 

Edited by RobertKB
Posted

The drums needed turning anyway, so try that first. Then find a shoe place if required. TKS

Posted

Foiled again. The hub was too small for the machine, so no new surface. Two braked shops said  they  hand sanded their oversized shoes to fit using Emory cloth! 
 

older car blues. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

On the shoes, contacted the seller who taught me that the top cam adjustments must be set back. Did that and the shoes fit. Been extremely hot so not making much progress these days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by pflaming
  • 1 month later...
Posted

QUESTION: I have 1954 fenders, hood and grill on my 1953 Suburban.  I now have a choice, rust free, dent free 1953  doghouse that I can use.

 

Which will the buying public prefer? 

Posted

Well, what’s easier. Changing the doghouse or continually explaining a ‘54 on a ‘53. I’d probably make the switch. Really nice project, by the way.

 

Posted

I went with the ‘54 fenders because they were nice and my ‘53’s were not. I’ve never liked either grille so the single bar solved that and I was building it for me. Well a lot has changed and I bought this coupe for the overdrive. Will now use it as a parts car for my suburban.

Posted

The coupe. I hate to part it out, I love the coupes, but too old to do more than finish what I have. 

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Posted

Since you are planning to sell both soon I assume , If it we me I would get the wagon done enough to sell and try to package both cars together as many do. Then a buyer can make their own decisions, Makes for a interesting sell if you put in any for sales ads the interchange possibilities!  Interesting ads sale!  Pics of both in one ad. ?

 

Just a opinion.  ☺️

 

DJ

  • Like 1
Posted

Please don't part that coupe out. Once the suburban is sold, you will never have to explain the '54/53 situation again. The coupe deserves to survive. 

Posted

       Robert, I agree. I like the single bar grille, if a buyer wants a true looking ‘53, there is nothing that eliminates the swap. I will put the engine and r11 overdrive in my truck, and put an engine and transmission with the car. That leaves a restorable core for someone..
       I have a very tender knee so going slowly. But if I could work and talk as quickly as PA, I could finish it in a couple of days.  But I will get there. 

Posted

You need to sell off all your project cars and the truck.

You need to take care of your physical health.

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You need to take care of your physical health.


It has crossed my mind. Regarding the suburban, I’m so close. Stopping just isn’t in my blood.  I’ll finish the Suburban, put  the coupe engine and overdrive in the truck then close it all down.  The interest has not waned, only the physical enjoyment. 
        I’ve had the good fortune to be deeply involved in the intellectual community and in the packing industry.. To get my hands on and my mind around all the components of an automobile is equivalent to the former. 
        So, to all, “Thanks for the memories,”

p.s.  working on the Suburban exterior today. Preping for paint is the only aspect of a build I haven’t done. My suburban has a number of small dents, I’m going try and raise the some with a shrinking disc. Cannot get behind with a dolly. After they raise some I will finish it wit a thin layer of bondo. 
 

 

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

If  you where close, I'd lend you my stud gun.  That is the best way to attack those little dents.  Maybe check with any local friends that may have one?

 

A little pricey to consider purchase for one job.

Posted

One quarter panel is rough sanded with 230 grit. The original paint is very, very hard. I had to use 120 grit to get to primer and smoth out deep dings and scratches.
 

my coupe is listed in classifieds. The radiator is in itself a good part. 

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