1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

[pflaming]

The chassis is back in the shop, new seals and bearings, tools required to pull the axle. So tomorrow.

I should mention, I will replace the bottle jack with a car stand before I start working on the axel! 

 

 

Edited August 21, 2018 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I had to make a puller. I discovered that the axle would not let loose until I applied a couple of SOLID hits on the  axle nut. Then I could pull it.  The black collar is a PVC coupling, with notches for stud clearance. New bearings, races, and seals from local parts store, O'Neils. Cost $99.00.  It's always easy once you understand. I trust these pictures will make it easy for someone else.

Edited August 22, 2018 by pflaming
Day after:, today starts with two (2) Aleave tablets! Arthritis does not take kindly to hard physical work!

[pflaming]

This new axle seal,  bearings project is more than I had invisioned. To install new , the old bearings had to be pressed off the axel and new ones pressed on with an hydraulic press. Got the second  axle out, came out easily, pulled the rear seals, then new on bearings the axles. Installation tomorrow including new rear brake cylinder seals and remounting of backing plares, et.al. 

[pflaming]

I'm close to connecting all new brake lines, new rear cylinders, new front disc brakes and new master cylinder. In all of that there is likely to be some debris. Should I flush the system before I close it and bleed the lines? If so, how and with what? 

 

[Dartgame]

I’d use compressed air followed with a copious amount of spray brake cleaner followed compressed air again, and make sure the compressed air blows all the solvent out...

[rhelm1953]

I like to see people who think through a problem and make their own tools to get the job done.  Not sure I would have ever considered PVC but it's cheap and easy to work with and in compression pretty strong, it also has the benefit of being non-marring to steel..  You have now got me thinking about PVC for driving in seals and bearing races where only a light force is required and you don't want to damage what you are driving in.

I learned something today, thanks!

[pflaming]

A friend, who knows I'm working on my rear brakes loaned me this, 

[Plymouthy Adams]

quick...take it to the local shop with a 3D printer....make copies...

[Adam H P15 D30]

5 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

quick...take it to the local shop with a 3D printer....make copies...

I second that. Could be an alternative to finding the obsolete expensive tool. If I got my hands on one of these tools, I’d repop it and market it. 

Edited August 26, 2018 by Adam H P15 D30

[pflaming]

Or make one out of PVC pipe couplings, which is what I was planning to do. 

[pflaming]

This tool / instrument is incredible.  My drums were perfect and shoes quickly came into adjustment. 

[pflaming]

New rear  axle bearings, seals, cylinder kits, brake line to  axle housing, and now the exhaust pipe and muffler.  It's ready for the body bac on. I am aware that many of you are very efficient so that this is hardly a days work, but for me, not so. Did I route the pipe correctly or should it be close to the frame. Nothing is welded, so to change not a big deal now. 

[casper50]

as long as it clears a gastank.

 

[pflaming]

1 minute ago, casper50 said:

gastank

I will check that out. It may be too far to center, but I think this where it was. 

[pflaming]

 This morning I finished the rear brake drums.  It took ne a bit to realize there was a spring loaded shoe adjustment. DUH! So nuch detail to learn and know

[pflaming]

Update:: 1) the tail pipe is correctly routed, no issues with the fuel tank, 2) I mounted the electric fuel pump this morning. I wanted it up closer to the tank but once the body is on, accessibility changes. I believe as long as it is close to and below the tank all is well. I still need to put a rubber cushion between the pump and the frame. 

 

I fully realize that my progress is at a snails' pace, but I have a turtle mentality! 

[chopt50wgn]

I know you know this...……….but just a reminder...……...remember to bench bleed the master cylinder.

[pflaming]

Where does this go? Rear engine mount? It's different than the new ones. Maybe years of compression changed its form. Question 2 : what level hardness bolt should be used? 

Edited September 7, 2018 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

being compressed and cracked I would say it goes in the trash can......side profile may be needed to assist in idenity

[pflaming]

I'm getting increasingly anxious to drive this car. I'm thinking it will be a better vehicle than the truck, so I may try and get my daugher to take this instead. Then detail the truck and sell it. I think the truck will sell quicker than the Suburban  and for more money. Your opinions on this are welcomed.

[Plymouthy Adams]

location location location....detail detail detail....

[Young Ed]

16 hours ago, pflaming said:

Where does this go? Rear engine mount? It's different than the new ones. Maybe years of compression changed its form. Question 2 : what level hardness bolt should be used? 

 

How thick is it? Seems like I recall after the elimination of the lower rear mounts some cars got a rubber washer on one side only. Do you have 1 or 2? 

[Plymouthy Adams]

exactly Ed, why a side profile would be in order..by the very crush it looks like one of the two that is on the rear cross member of the chassis but should have two of these to look at.  If but the one, could well be the single on the passenger rear frame tip up for torque displacement...the heavy crush and crack would lead me to think this is the application..on the wagon body it is so easy to view its placement while looking in from the tailgate..

Edited September 8, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

It appears you guys are correct. See photos.  Ed, I only have one.

Edited September 8, 2018 by pflaming

[Dodgeb4ya]

That split rubber donut is not a factory mount... either on the engine or body...

Someone installed that as a fix and crushed it so tight that it finally split.

It probably was installed on the rear lower motor mount.... Right or left side under the cross member..hacky work.