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Posted (edited)

 The top of one of my body mounts broke way from the frame. As shown, I pulled it back with a large C clamp and temporarily secured it with a large screw. I will add  a second screw today and weld it secure when I weld in the floor. I want that secured  with a good welder. 

 

Im two or three days away from taking it for a drive. If I hadn't spent so much time on the shifter, I would have been on the road a month ago. 

 

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

I think the floor went over that at one time, using semi-trailer tie downs I made new mounts.

 

 

Plymouth body mount (845 x 634).jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Yes, the new floor panel lays flat on the piece. I like the use of thosevtie downs. I'm going to borrow the idea.

 

Today, I brought down front storage the back seat panel and found prestige color. I will use that color, I like it. I'm ready to drive the vehicle. Lots of rain today so fixed a tire, found the wires to the power seat back and forward movement, etc. With air bags, video screen in the headvrest amd all the other amenities, I stopped counting wires at 70. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Add fuel, secure steering wheel and bucket seat, fan belt and it should start, then  back out of the garage and motor around the block.

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Engine won't restart. Very weak spark out of the top of the cap so week coil is likely. I have three coils, all tested  doubtful. Will retest tomorrow,  probably time for a new coil.  Daft tube / pvc valve install tomorrow, adjust the cutch push rod, and install alternator adjust arm.

 

question: I  know the inside of the coil canister is a coil. Is it tightly wound copper wire? Curiosity calls me to find out. 

So, maybe a drive don the alley, tomorrow. Lots of small items to reinstall, time consuming, but getting there. 

Edited by pflaming
Posted

There would be 2 coils of wire inside the ignition coil. One is energized by the ignition circuit and creates a magnetic field, which then collapses when the points open. When the magnetic field grows and collapses it will induce an electric current in the adjacent coil of wire, which is directed out to your spark plugs. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Fabbed  a pcv valve today , among other things!  Well I got a couple letters reversed today so I revisited the pcv purpose and workability. A good review is helps fix information in the mind. My quickly fabbed return apparatus is shown. I will move the valve to the top of the line at the intake manifold.  Now I will make it look better,  I may form a new line with the pcv valve at the intake manifold. 

 

REVIEW:  Positive crankcase ventilation involves recycling gases through a valve (called, appropriately, the PCV valve) to the intake manifold, where they're pumped back into the cylinders for another shot at combustion. It isn't always desirable to have these gases in the cylinders because they tend to be mostly air and can make the gas-air mixture in the cylinders a little too lean -- that is, too low on gasoline -- for effective combustion. So the blow-by gases should only be recycled when the car is traveling at slow speeds or idling. Fortunately, when the engine is idling the air pressure in the intake manifold is lower than the air pressure in the crankcase, and it's this lower pressure (which sometimes approaches pure vacuum) that sucks the blow-by gases through the PCV valve and back into the intake. When the engine speeds up, the air pressure in the intake manifold increases and the suction slows down, reducing the amount of blow-by gas recycled to the cylinders. This is good, because the blow-by gases aren't needed when the engine speeds up. In fact, when the car is up to speed, the pressure in the intake manifold can actually become higher than the pressure in the crankcase, potentially forcing the blow-by gases back into the crankcase.

 

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Edited by pflaming
Posted
1 hour ago, pflaming said:

Fabbed  a PVC valve today , among other things,  final install next. Question, is it better to have the valve close to the intake manifold? Seems it may pull fumes better than push them. 

 

 

 

Did you fab schedule 40 or schedule 80 PVC (polyvinyl chloride)? Not sure what you are trying to do.

 

Or do you have Premature Ventricular Contractions. Reduction of tobacco, alcohol, illegal drugs and caffeine might help.

Posted

The end / hinge plates are solid, bit the "header" is cheese. Suggestions welcomed. 

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Posted

Maybe it is me but please tell me these pictures are of??

 

Thought rear opening window of the wagon ??-- glove box??-- front window header, which I doubt....

 

DJ

Posted
On 12/15/2018 at 6:09 PM, pflaming said:

Fabbed  a pcv valve today , among other things!  Well I got a couple letters reversed today so I revisited the pcv purpose and workability. A good review is helps fix information in the mind. My quickly fabbed return apparatus is shown. I will move the valve to the top of the line at the intake manifold.  Now I will make it look better,  I may form a new line with the pcv valve at the intake manifold. 

 

REVIEW:  Positive crankcase ventilation involves recycling gases through a valve (called, appropriately, the PCV valve) to the intake manifold, where they're pumped back into the cylinders for another shot at combustion. It isn't always desirable to have these gases in the cylinders because they tend to be mostly air and can make the gas-air mixture in the cylinders a little too lean -- that is, too low on gasoline -- for effective combustion. So the blow-by gases should only be recycled when the car is traveling at slow speeds or idling. Fortunately, when the engine is idling the air pressure in the intake manifold is lower than the air pressure in the crankcase, and it's this lower pressure (which sometimes approaches pure vacuum) that sucks the blow-by gases through the PCV valve and back into the intake. When the engine speeds up, the air pressure in the intake manifold increases and the suction slows down, reducing the amount of blow-by gas recycled to the cylinders. This is good, because the blow-by gases aren't needed when the engine speeds up. In fact, when the car is up to speed, the pressure in the intake manifold can actually become higher than the pressure in the crankcase, potentially forcing the blow-by gases back into the crankcase.

 

IMG_5619.JPG

PCV is nothing more than a metered vacuum leak with a check valve Incase of backfire. It is always doing its job except at WOT when the intake vacuum approaches atmospheric pressure (no vacuum). This is displayed about the same time the wipers stop. 

 

Adam

Posted (edited)

1. Adam, since I have electrical wipers, vacuum is nut an issue, yet TKS for the information.  2. Today I made a template for that header. Welded in will fix that area. 

IMG_5653.JPG

Edited by pflaming
  • Confused 1
Posted
3 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Maybe it is me but please tell me these pictures are of??

 

Thought rear opening window of the wagon ??-- glove box??-- front window header, which I doubt....

 

DJ

its a picture of the rear lift gate header as seen through the rearview mirror while peeking out of the glove box door....this is just an advanced stage of patina....I see no real concern here...

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

Our family is in Maine so we are alone. So today I will put '54 tail lights in. It's tricky getting the old '53 lens' bolts off.  There was lots of dirt back in those corners, not any more. 

 

Merry Christmas. 

Edited by pflaming
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I never imagined the work involved in repairing this car. I do not consider it a restoration, per se, just a very thorough repair. Been a great experience. I am getting very close to a completed, though not finished., product. 

Posted

Paul,

 

You need to get it finished enough to drive it to Clements,Ca. and Tim's BBQ this April !!!  ?

 

Keep on it, - - -maybe? Only 3 mouths away!  ?

 

DJ

Posted (edited)

DJ, should make that. I restarted the engine today. It is so quiet at idle. I'll post a video later. So tomorrow I will back it into the alley, maybe drive it around the block.

 

I could not start it, so called my mechanic, one man shop in the country. Never advertises, always busy. Cost ne $50. As noted in another post, New is not always good. New coil was bad!!! Those things kill so much time. It tested out with the olm meter, yet go figure. 

 

Ss shown, it runs, now a lot of connecting to do. All front wires have been tested with appropriate lights, back to the dash controls. I'm getting too old for this! 

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Edited by pflaming
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Spent today wrapping the engine compartment harness. Doghouse will go on tomorrow. i did not realize how much more work a car is compared to a truck. Yet I will get it done. 

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