pflaming Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) I'm working on the timing chain. When I started attaching this "magic degree marker" I recalled that my pulley has TDC and degrees stamped into it. I am using the paper tape because it is easier to read. I taped it to match TDC on the pulley. This is NOT good for my arthritis! But the play must go on!!! So slack to contact = 15 + degrees,, new timing chain. Edited September 8, 2018 by pflaming Quote
pflaming Posted September 9, 2018 Author Report Posted September 9, 2018 Replacing the timing chain is no mean task. I'm going to defer that so I can concentrate on the Suburban even if I have to park the truck. So here is the ticker: what are the chances the chain will fail and what happens if it does? An inquiring mind needs to know. Temps in the 90's for a few days then into the high 80's. It's time! Quote
pflaming Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Posted September 15, 2018 Today I rolled the chassis back under the body. The pace may pick up now. Next to lower it onto the chassis, then start connecting things together. Quote
sser2 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Posted September 15, 2018 (edited) On 9/8/2018 at 5:21 PM, pflaming said: what are the chances the chain will fail and what happens if it does? 1 - almost zero. 2 - you will have to replace chain and possibly sprockets. Edited September 15, 2018 by sser2 Quote
rhelm1953 Posted September 16, 2018 Report Posted September 16, 2018 On an overhead valve engine the concern is whether the valves will hit the pistons if the timing chain fails or jumps time. On a flathead that is not a possibility. If the timing chain breaks or the engine jumps time in a flathead, it will stop running and you will need to replace the timing chain and sprockets. 2 Quote
pflaming Posted September 18, 2018 Author Report Posted September 18, 2018 (edited) We are coming down. When my son comes home tonight I'll have him watch what is happening when I bring the front down I've just been inching down. It took me a while to fine a way to lift the back. This worked great. The 2X6 took the pressure and all is well. After dinner we lowered it ON THE FRAME!!! What a relief. Edited September 19, 2018 by pflaming 2 Quote
leadheavy52 Posted September 19, 2018 Report Posted September 19, 2018 Looking good! Making solid progress. Quote
pflaming Posted September 27, 2018 Author Report Posted September 27, 2018 When a friend and I tried to bleed the lines, I did not make sound flares, so rather than redo flares today I bought the copper/aluminum easy form tubing, which come preflared and with fittings, . I did one, they are so easy to form and mold to the frame. I will never flare a tube again and I will replace all steel lines. With these tubes it will not be a difficult task. Quote
pflaming Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Posted October 1, 2018 It was time. I never drove this car, but these should be of great help. They are going in today. 1 Quote
pflaming Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Posted October 1, 2018 (edited) Does that look correct? I didn't do it that way. I have both cushions between the frame and the mount, the pic is from the net. The mount and sleeve impressions indicate the cushions are together. I've misplaced my manual, so can't check there. See below: so the picture is correct. Mine are in loosely, easy to correct. So then the cushions, top and under the frame mount, allow the torquing / twitching of the body to work with the frame mount mount! Edited October 1, 2018 by pflaming Quote
casper50 Posted October 1, 2018 Report Posted October 1, 2018 My 47 Dodge had both pieces together between the body and frame mount. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 1, 2018 Report Posted October 1, 2018 That picture would seem correct to me. One on each side of the mount bracket so that it can flex wither way. Quote
Old Ray Posted October 1, 2018 Report Posted October 1, 2018 Should be two different types of rubber mounts, one with a raised small shoulder, that goes down into the frame mount hole from the top, (had to enlarge the holes on ‘56) under the body. The other one without the boss comes up from the bottom. The same as the picture. The sleeve is prevent over tightening. Quote
pflaming Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Posted October 8, 2018 (edited) Now working on shifter handle, re positioning and reach. Will weld it together tomorrow and test the mechanics. Today was research day. I discovered that all leather in cars is processed and all is dyed per designer specks. The existing color can be removed and the material can be redyed to a new need. Edited October 15, 2018 by pflaming Quote
pflaming Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Posted October 16, 2018 Update: I'm making great progress on the shifter, basically cosmetics now. Also starting final metal work on the floor. I am totaling removing all areas where the material is shot or even marginal. I will replace that rocker crown with new metal. The piece on there now was experimental, also galvanized which is not recommended. Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 16, 2018 Report Posted October 16, 2018 Keep the updates coming Paul. I always look forward to seeing what you're up to.. I've been getting after the Mach I the last several months and have made great progress on it but it'll be another six months or so before it rolls back out the door. Then, it's back to the truck. Quote
pflaming Posted October 17, 2018 Author Report Posted October 17, 2018 Dave, just to relieve someone's tension, that I cut corners, had a pair of rocker crowns formed today. This one replaces the two pieces you saw yesterday. These two and another piece for my shifter mount cost me $20.00. Money well spent in my opinion. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 17, 2018 Report Posted October 17, 2018 6 hours ago, pflaming said: Dave, just to relieve someone's tension, that I cut corners, had a pair of rocker crowns formed today. This one replaces the two pieces you saw yesterday. These two and another piece for my shifter mount cost me $20.00. Money well spent in my opinion. show us the welds...….? Quote
pflaming Posted October 17, 2018 Author Report Posted October 17, 2018 (edited) that is next, new panels first. Edited October 17, 2018 by pflaming Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 17, 2018 Report Posted October 17, 2018 23 hours ago, pflaming said: Update: I'm making great progress on the shifter, basically cosmetics now. Also starting final metal work on the floor. I am totaling removing all areas where the material is shot or even marginal. I will replace that rocker crown with new metal. The piece on there now was experimental, also galvanized which is not recommended. What is hiding behind the piece of cardboard? Quote
pflaming Posted October 21, 2018 Author Report Posted October 21, 2018 Today I set in the bucket seat to check positioning. I placed it to duplicate the seat in my Honda Accord. It fits nicely and the rear seat panel conversion for a utility cabin work as designed. Will do dual mounts for buckets or for 60/40 bench. The shift handle is in easy reach. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 Once again what is hiding behind the piece of cardboard below the shifter handle? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 will we ever know the truth? Rumor has it that it contains the original but altered version of the security film of a garage fire in Reedy CA...clearly a 7 minute gap in the recording had been deleted that shows a trash can disappearing somewhere along the line that speculates to the cat's innocence Quote
pflaming Posted October 21, 2018 Author Report Posted October 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Don Coatney said: Once again what is hiding behind the piece of cardboard below the shifter handle? A 45! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.