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Posted (edited)

I'm working on the timing chain. When I started attaching this "magic degree marker" I recalled that my pulley has TDC and degrees stamped into it. I am using the paper tape because it is easier to read. I taped it to match TDC on the pulley. This is NOT good for my arthritis! But the play must go on!!!

 

So slack to contact = 15 + degrees,, new timing chain.

 

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

Replacing the timing chain is no mean task. I'm going to defer that so I can concentrate on the Suburban even if I have to park the truck. So here is the ticker: what are the chances the chain will fail and what happens if it does? 

 

An inquiring mind needs to know.  Temps in the 90's for a few days then into the high 80's. It's time! 

Posted

Today I rolled the chassis back under the body. The pace may pick up now. Next to lower it onto the chassis, then start connecting things together. 

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Posted (edited)
On 9/8/2018 at 5:21 PM, pflaming said:

what are the chances the chain will fail

and what happens if it does? 

1 - almost zero.

2 - you will have to replace chain and possibly sprockets.

Edited by sser2
Posted

On an overhead valve engine the concern is whether the valves will hit the pistons if the timing chain fails or jumps time.  On a flathead that is not a possibility.  If the timing chain breaks or the engine jumps time in a flathead, it will stop running and you will need to replace the timing chain and sprockets.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

We are coming down. When my son comes home tonight I'll have him watch what is happening when I bring the front down I've just been inching down. It took me a while to fine a way to lift the back. This worked great. The 2X6 took the pressure and all is well. 

 

After dinner we lowered it ON THE FRAME!!! What a relief. 

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Edited by pflaming
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

When a friend and I tried to bleed the lines, I did not make sound flares, so rather than redo flares today I bought the copper/aluminum easy form tubing, which come preflared and with fittings, . I did one, they are so easy to form and mold to the frame.  I will never flare a tube again and I will replace all steel lines. With these tubes it will not be a difficult task. 

Posted

It was time. I never drove this car, but these should be of great help. They are going in today.

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Does that look correct?  I didn't do it that way. I have both cushions between the frame and the mount, the pic is from the net. The mount and sleeve impressions indicate the cushions are together. I've misplaced my manual, so can't check there. 

 

See below: so the picture is correct. Mine are in loosely, easy to correct. So then the cushions,  top and under the frame mount, allow the torquing / twitching of the body to work with the frame mount mount! 

 

Edited by pflaming
Posted

 

Should be two different types of rubber mounts, one with a raised small shoulder, that goes down into the frame mount hole from the top, (had to enlarge the holes on ‘56)   under the body. The other one without the boss comes up from the bottom. The same as the picture. The sleeve is prevent over tightening.

Posted (edited)

Now working on shifter handle, re positioning and reach. Will weld it together tomorrow and test the mechanics.

 

Today was research day. I discovered that all leather in cars is processed and all is dyed per designer specks. The existing color can be removed and the material can be redyed to a new need. 

 

 

Edited by pflaming
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Update: I'm making great progress on the shifter, basically cosmetics now. Also starting final metal work on the floor. I am totaling removing all areas where the material is shot or even marginal. I will replace that rocker crown with new metal. The piece on there now was experimental, also galvanized which is not recommended. 

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Posted

Keep the updates coming Paul.  I always look forward to seeing what you're up to..  I've been getting after the Mach I the last several months and have made great progress on it but it'll be another six months or so before it rolls back out the door.  Then, it's back to the truck.

Posted

Dave, just to relieve someone's tension, that I cut corners, had a pair of rocker crowns formed today. This one replaces the two pieces you saw yesterday. These two and another piece for my shifter mount cost me $20.00. Money well spent in my opinion.

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Posted
6 hours ago, pflaming said:

Dave, just to relieve someone's tension, that I cut corners, had a pair of rocker crowns formed today. This one replaces the two pieces you saw yesterday. These two and another piece for my shifter mount cost me $20.00. Money well spent in my opinion.

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show us the welds...….?

 

Posted
23 hours ago, pflaming said:

Update: I'm making great progress on the shifter, basically cosmetics now. Also starting final metal work on the floor. I am totaling removing all areas where the material is shot or even marginal. I will replace that rocker crown with new metal. The piece on there now was experimental, also galvanized which is not recommended. 

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What is hiding behind the piece of cardboard?

Posted

Today I set in  the bucket seat to check positioning. I placed it to duplicate the seat in my Honda Accord. It fits nicely and the rear seat panel conversion for a utility cabin work as designed. Will do dual mounts for buckets or for 60/40 bench. The shift handle is in easy reach. 

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Posted

will we ever know the truth?  Rumor has it that it contains the original but altered version of the security film of a garage fire in Reedy CA...clearly a 7 minute gap in the recording had been deleted that shows a trash can disappearing somewhere along the line  that speculates to the cat's innocence :lol:  

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Don Coatney said:

Once again what is hiding behind the piece of cardboard below the shifter handle?

 

A 45! 

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