pflaming Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) The chassis is back in the shop, new seals and bearings, tools required to pull the axle. So tomorrow. I should mention, I will replace the bottle jack with a car stand before I start working on the axel! Edited August 21, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) I had to make a puller. I discovered that the axle would not let loose until I applied a couple of SOLID hits on the axle nut. Then I could pull it. The black collar is a PVC coupling, with notches for stud clearance. New bearings, races, and seals from local parts store, O'Neils. Cost $99.00. It's always easy once you understand. I trust these pictures will make it easy for someone else. Edited August 22, 2018 by pflaming Day after:, today starts with two (2) Aleave tablets! Arthritis does not take kindly to hard physical work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2018 This new axle seal, bearings project is more than I had invisioned. To install new , the old bearings had to be pressed off the axel and new ones pressed on with an hydraulic press. Got the second axle out, came out easily, pulled the rear seals, then new on bearings the axles. Installation tomorrow including new rear brake cylinder seals and remounting of backing plares, et.al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 I'm close to connecting all new brake lines, new rear cylinders, new front disc brakes and new master cylinder. In all of that there is likely to be some debris. Should I flush the system before I close it and bleed the lines? If so, how and with what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 I’d use compressed air followed with a copious amount of spray brake cleaner followed compressed air again, and make sure the compressed air blows all the solvent out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhelm1953 Posted August 23, 2018 Report Share Posted August 23, 2018 I like to see people who think through a problem and make their own tools to get the job done. Not sure I would have ever considered PVC but it's cheap and easy to work with and in compression pretty strong, it also has the benefit of being non-marring to steel.. You have now got me thinking about PVC for driving in seals and bearing races where only a light force is required and you don't want to damage what you are driving in. I learned something today, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 A friend, who knows I'm working on my rear brakes loaned me this, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 quick...take it to the local shop with a 3D printer....make copies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted August 26, 2018 Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: quick...take it to the local shop with a 3D printer....make copies... I second that. Could be an alternative to finding the obsolete expensive tool. If I got my hands on one of these tools, I’d repop it and market it. Edited August 26, 2018 by Adam H P15 D30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2018 Or make one out of PVC pipe couplings, which is what I was planning to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 This tool / instrument is incredible. My drums were perfect and shoes quickly came into adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 New rear axle bearings, seals, cylinder kits, brake line to axle housing, and now the exhaust pipe and muffler. It's ready for the body bac on. I am aware that many of you are very efficient so that this is hardly a days work, but for me, not so. Did I route the pipe correctly or should it be close to the frame. Nothing is welded, so to change not a big deal now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted September 1, 2018 Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 as long as it clears a gastank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2018 1 minute ago, casper50 said: gastank I will check that out. It may be too far to center, but I think this where it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2018 This morning I finished the rear brake drums. It took ne a bit to realize there was a spring loaded shoe adjustment. DUH! So nuch detail to learn and know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 Update:: 1) the tail pipe is correctly routed, no issues with the fuel tank, 2) I mounted the electric fuel pump this morning. I wanted it up closer to the tank but once the body is on, accessibility changes. I believe as long as it is close to and below the tank all is well. I still need to put a rubber cushion between the pump and the frame. I fully realize that my progress is at a snails' pace, but I have a turtle mentality! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted September 6, 2018 Report Share Posted September 6, 2018 I know you know this...……….but just a reminder...……...remember to bench bleed the master cylinder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) Where does this go? Rear engine mount? It's different than the new ones. Maybe years of compression changed its form. Question 2 : what level hardness bolt should be used? Edited September 7, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 7, 2018 Report Share Posted September 7, 2018 being compressed and cracked I would say it goes in the trash can......side profile may be needed to assist in idenity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 I'm getting increasingly anxious to drive this car. I'm thinking it will be a better vehicle than the truck, so I may try and get my daugher to take this instead. Then detail the truck and sell it. I think the truck will sell quicker than the Suburban and for more money. Your opinions on this are welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 location location location....detail detail detail.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 16 hours ago, pflaming said: Where does this go? Rear engine mount? It's different than the new ones. Maybe years of compression changed its form. Question 2 : what level hardness bolt should be used? How thick is it? Seems like I recall after the elimination of the lower rear mounts some cars got a rubber washer on one side only. Do you have 1 or 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) exactly Ed, why a side profile would be in order..by the very crush it looks like one of the two that is on the rear cross member of the chassis but should have two of these to look at. If but the one, could well be the single on the passenger rear frame tip up for torque displacement...the heavy crush and crack would lead me to think this is the application..on the wagon body it is so easy to view its placement while looking in from the tailgate.. Edited September 8, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 (edited) It appears you guys are correct. See photos. Ed, I only have one. Edited September 8, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 That split rubber donut is not a factory mount... either on the engine or body... Someone installed that as a fix and crushed it so tight that it finally split. It probably was installed on the rear lower motor mount.... Right or left side under the cross member..hacky work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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