Jump to content

3 Speed Fluid Type


52dodge

Recommended Posts

80 0r 90 wt gear lube, but not the new stuff for hypoid gears.  It has stuff in it that doesn't like bronze and brass.  Check at Tractor Supply Co for regular gear lube.If you can't find the old style GL3 or lower, look for a new synthetic multi weight in the same neighborhood but read the label to make sure its compatable with white metal.  I believe royal purple has one that will work.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

DO NOT use a Hypoid gear oil.  It will be marked GL-5.  The additives package will cause you problems.  I think what you are looking for is a GL-1(?).

 

My '33 doe not, to the best of my knowledge, have any brass or bronze parts in the transmission or rear. I guess that came later when they added synchros. Or maybe other makes that did not use steel roller bearings through out. So I've used hypoid gear oil for 40 years now with no issues.

 

Anyway, every time I read "don't use hypoid gear oil, it will cause problems" I go out and check the label on the stuff I have in the garage and every time it says it is safe for use in vehicles with brass or bronze parts. I believe that early hypoid oil was achieved using additives that were harmful but it is not clear to me that all current hypoid oil nowadays has that issue. Like greg g wrote, read the label.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GL4 is marked as safe to use as the sulfur content is way low compared to GL5..owner has the end word on what he wants to use after the cautions are thrown out there.  However the viscosity of the gear oil at GL1- 80-90 is not as thick as the GL4/5 80-90....as the sheer factor of the require lube is not extreme in the transmission...as a note you may want to consider is to refer to the factory manual (lube and lube interval) and note only the rear axle is to get Hypoid oil...I would think they use the different lubes for a reason...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dodge manual through 1948 called for gear lube. 1949-52  SAE 10-W.  So did the transmissions change, or did MoPar thinking change?

 

I think it has been posted here in the past that maybe the 10-W oil may let the transmission sort of free wheel too much causing a possibility of 1st/reverse grinding.

 

I suppose you could pick one, try it, then change if necessary to the other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Longevity? GL4 or earlier 75W90. Easier shifting? Motor oil. Better fuel economy? ATF (modern light duty manual transmissions have used Dex 3 for the last couple decades... even in 4wd applications).

 

If it was mine and I wanted it to last, I'd stick with gear oil or motor oil. Peeking into my truck top loader 3 speed with a bore scope showed it was pretty much pristine, and it has only ever had whatever gear oil was on sale added to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i want grind free shifts lol

If it was properly rebuilt then the synchronizers should be in good shape and the originally specified fluid, which in this case appears to be 10w motor oil, should be okay.

 

Factory engineers weren't dumb they had been using gear oil in years prior but specified 10w for yours. So they knew about both and made a decision. Now, 60 years on, you dig into a never ending conversation, mostly between non-engineers, about what they think.

 

shel_bizzy_48 has it right: "I suppose you could pick one, try it, then change if necessary to the other." But I'd start with the factory recomendation for the first pick.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not an engineer and I feel very few here are and that is why I specifically said to check your manual. 

 

My Plymouth 1946 through 1954 in both transmission and over drive says Gear Fluid 80 cold temp zone and Fluid Gear 90 for temps above -10 F

 

My 1941 through 1948 shop manual for Dodge with standard tranny as found behind a fluid coupler still uses Gear Fluid oil 90 for summer and Gear Fluid 80 for temps below -10 F

 

as he specified three speed and not any of the clunk-o-matics...and the transmission are basically the same in the manual application...I posted what I did...If 52Dodge does not have a factory book to reference..he should consider getting one...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not use 10W. Too thin IMO. I have driven these Mopar 3 speeds and with od's too for over 40 years. I remember trying 10 weight and 1st/reverse tended to grind because of gear spinning down too long and the transmission seemed a little noisier too. 80/90 gear oil is good. I'd use that oil.

 For warranty purposes use what the book calls for!

Bob

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what it boils down too is believe the manual, 3speed transmission 80 or 90 weight gl 1, or what might have worked for some others. I willstand by my original answer as it is for the standard equipment three speed trans regardless of which (fluid or dry) drive it rsides behind. By he way the required quantiy is specified at 2 3/4 pints.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your original post stated you have a three speed trans mission. If your car has a gyromatic semi auto, and not the standard,then the info youu quoted in your last post is correct. Are you well and truely confused now? This is a normal state of mind with mopars various transmissions and their names. So which trans do you actually have? And yes the semi autos have a clutch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use