Control Cable Rebuilding

[ggdad1951]

Ok boys, now that the mirror division bar has been around for a while, I decided to tackle the next on my list of things to rebuild that isn't rocket science.

 

I need some LONG control cables for FEF and I'm pretty sure I've figured out how to rebuild control cables to any length.  I just need a source for the armor cable and control wire. Anyone have a line on that in bulk or long lengths?

Edited March 31, 2013 by ggdad1951

[50 Dodge Lug Nut]

Ok boys, now that the mirror division bar has been around for a while, I decided to tackle the next on my list of things to rebuild that isn't rocket science.

 

I need some LONG control cables for FEF and I'm pretty sure I've figured out how to rebuild control cables to any length.  I just need a source for the armor cable and control wire. Anyone have a line on that in bulk or long lengths?

I'm not sure exactly what cable you are looking to rebuild, or it's application, however here is a source that might fill your needs.

 

http://www.inlinetube.com/articles/Brake%20Cables.htm

 

Regards,

 

Frank

[ggdad1951]

any of the control cables:

Fresh Air

Defrost

Throttle

Choke

 

need the cable housing and cable to be the same size/style as the orignal.  Seems that would be a "Bowden" style conduit w/ a SOLID wire (no stranded cable).

Edited April 1, 2013 by ggdad1951

[B1B Keven]

http://www.mfgsupply.com/mower/mowerthrottle/mowerthrottleu.html

 

http://www.flanderscables.com/FlanCableSearch.html

[Plymouthy Adams]

long ago most of the repair shops for mowers etc had this stuff in bulk...shield on one roll the inner wire on another..cut each as needed

[ggdad1951]

found a supplier....will post pictures/results after I get the parts in to work with.

[John-T-53]

Glad to hear, this has been on my list for a long time now! Please share the details when you can.

 

Thanks,

[ggdad1951]

tooling built, just waiting to hear back costs for the conduit and cable.

[ggdad1951]

got my bulk components yesterday, home sick today from work and I HOPE to be able to play with this a little while I lay around and watch Looney Tunes today...I'm already bored.

 

update:  hmmm not going is planned.....solder not sticking to anything......have more research to do it seems.

Edited April 18, 2013 by ggdad1951

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have had to carefully braze the cable and housings. Solder like you say is iffy. Crimping in a professional way is the best if you can do it so it looks factory.

Bob

Edited April 18, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[ggdad1951]

ok, I've successfully at least got half the equation figured.  A little JB weld or epoxy in the crack as back up and the cable conduit is good to go with some paint.  How long do I make it? 

I need a different flux than I have to silver solder the SS control wire...on order and should be here this next week.  I think I'm going to try the heat up method and see if the cooled crimp will be good w/o any solder.  I've got a few ideas on how to heat stake it.  When I took the cable end off there was some solder in there it seems, at least something bubbled out when I heated it.   I'll play with that later today....meanwhile my jig to keep things straight.

[ggdad1951]

ok, well that didn't work.....it just moves the material around....drrr

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

You got me going on this cable operation and soldering. I dug through my soldering supplies and used regular 50/50 lead free solder with regular liquid soldering flux. Wire wheeled  the cable housing real good and used a piece of scrap 20Ga. steel as a test. I properly tinned the cable housing first, then the small scrap piece of steel both real well.Then just soldered the two together. I got a real good strong joint. I would have done this to a truck cable but don't have any I want to screw up with this practice test. The whole solution is to clean the parts real well and tin them first seperately. Just enough heat with a small propane bottle Bernzomatic torch. Worked well for me. I fI can latert I will try a sleeve and cable out of a junk truck.

Bob

[ggdad1951]

the cable housing isn't such an issue as much as the SS wire I got for the core wire...SS doesn't solder that same as carbon steel.

 

the cable housing is new and zinc'd, just using heat to open the base allowed me to get the cable in and after cooling it's nice and snug, just like original.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Keep up the excellent work. You will get it accomplished.

[ggdad1951]

ok, two more 7' cable housing made, silver soldered together, tough as nails.  I've got in my mind how to make the crimp tooling for the control cable to crimp these bad boys just like original.  Brazing/silver solder as back up once the proper flux shows up JIC.

[Desotodav]

In answer to your question of how long you make them Mark, I measured a set of my spare cables and found that the choke cable was slightly longer than the throttle cable. Measurements taken are from the end of the housing where the cable case slides into (the bit that you were trying to solder/braze - see attached photo). The inner cable appears to be stainless wire and extends past the end of the cable case to connect at the carburetor. Measurements as follows:

Choke cable: 26 inches of outer casing from the point indicated + 4 inches of inner cable extended past the end of the outer casing.

Throttle cable: 23 inches of outer casing from the point indicated + 1 1/2 inches of inner cable extended past the end of the casing.

 

I believe that these measurements should be the same for ours (Australia) and yours (USA) trucks. Hope this helps you out.

 

[wallytoo]

the cable housing isn't such an issue as much as the SS wire I got for the core wire...SS doesn't solder that same as carbon steel.

you should be able to get solder specifically for stainless. the maple industry used it for years making pans in the 80s and 90s, prior to stainless welding being common. once welding became common, the industry pretty much stopped soldering pans.

[ggdad1951]

you should be able to get solder specifically for stainless. the maple industry used it for years making pans in the 80s and 90s, prior to stainless welding being common. once welding became common, the industry pretty much stopped soldering pans.

From my research it has mostly to do with the proper flux to wet the SS, that will be here next week.  I hope to have some heat stake tooling made up today so I don't have to solder it.

 

In answer to your question of how long you make them Mark, I measured a set of my spare cables and found that the choke cable was slightly longer than the throttle cable. Measurements taken are from the end of the housing where the cable case slides into (the bit that you were trying to solder/braze - see attached photo). The inner cable appears to be stainless wire and extends past the end of the cable case to connect at the carburetor. Measurements as follows:

Choke cable: 26 inches of outer casing from the point indicated + 4 inches of inner cable extended past the end of the outer casing.

Throttle cable: 23 inches of outer casing from the point indicated + 1 1/2 inches of inner cable extended past the end of the casing.

 

I believe that these measurements should be the same for ours (Australia) and yours (USA) trucks. Hope this helps you out.

thanks Davin, it was a joke question!    Since I have it on a spool 100' long!

Edited April 19, 2013 by ggdad1951

[ggdad1951]

sneaked a few minutes at work today and made some rudimentary crimp tooling.....

 

 

 

SUCCESS!   

 

 

I'll poke a bit with upgrading the tooling after work tonight and I SHOULD be able to make any length cable anyone wants under 8' as long as they send a donor for the ends.  Materials run about $1.25 per foot for the conduit & control wire...so maybe $20 plus material cost for a custom length?  So a 8' cable would be  $30.00.  Does that sound fair?

 

 

 

[John-T-53]

Wow, Mark, you're the man! I will be in contact with some cable orders in the near future!

 

Thanks,

[ggdad1951]

ok, just heat staked two more knob rods onto the control wires!  Seems to work great!  

 

If anyone has some trashed/short cables that the ends are salvageable, please PM me and I want to work out a deal to get them so I can convert them to new longer lengths.

 

To keep things simple, I'll just make 8' lengths and let you guys cut them to the length you desire.  Easier for me and safer for you.  The cost isn't in the material it's in the time to disassemble and reassemble.

 

So if you send me an old cable set to convert to an 8' length it'll cost ya $30, plus shipping (flat rate $5?).  Just PM me and we'll work it out.

 

No cable to convert...you'll have to wait till I get a "stock" of ones that aren't needed for someone at the moment.

[Merle Coggins]

I have a heater valve cable that I may have you redo for me. I'll have to dig it out and give it another look. If you get a package from me with a cable and check in side you'll know what to do.

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

Nice job. Question........now that you have mastered this skill.........shouldn't you change your handle to Mark the cable guy?

 

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Two rebuilt cables installed tonight. New DEFROST and new AIR. Work like a charm. Very happy! Might rebuild the CHOKE and THROTTLE because I can!