Looznutz Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Well I was installing my cab harness today and I was almost done wiring the headlight switch when the dammed gremlins hit. I broke one of the studs to the switch. Well my question is the switch has a little square in the back and it looks to be removable can it be replaced by itself or do I have to replace the whole switch? If it can be replaced by itself can I buy it at the parts store and If I can does anybody have a part number? "> http:// On a lighter note I found this little toy at toys r us and just had to have it. ">http:// ">http:// Very nice!! Sorry for the dirty finger nails. Had no time to get a manicure this weekend. Working hard to get truck going Edited March 14, 2013 by Looznutz Quote
pflaming Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 Don't panic. Take it out, thoroughly clean it, then remove the top where the post is broken. That is a fuse / breaker box. I think the post remaining is for the four light posts and the other is for I do not recall but I think the panel lights. Fix the top and reassemble. Just dissassemble gently, it's not that fragile but care is always the better way. Good luck. Quote
MBF Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 Looz, you broke the stud off the input side of the circuit breaker for the headlight switch. I don't know if I'd trust repairing that. A replacement should be available at NAPA, but if you're leaving the truck 6 volts, tell them that. Amp load on a 6 volt system is twice that of a 12v counterpart. There may be an amp rating on the cover. If you can't find one, let me know and I'll check to see if I have used one. I wouldn't hook up the headlights w/o the breaker in case you have a problem. A temporary fix would be to use a 30 amp inline fuse but that'll only work-once. Neat toy-I bought a tractor like that at a truck show last year. Mike Quote
Jim Roach Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 I there a way to bench test the head light switch? The one in my truck doesn't work and I have another one I would like to test before installing it. Quote
pflaming Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 I hooked mine up to my six volt battery charger, attached two an old panel light sockets and bulbs so I could determine if the park lights worked also, grounded it all and bingo. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 You could use an Ohm meter too, to measure continuity between the terminals. 1 Quote
B1B Keven Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 Well I was installing my cab harness today and I was almost done wiring the headlight switch when the dammed gremlins hit. I broke one of the studs to the switch. Well my question is the switch has a little square in the back and it looks to be removable can it be replaced by itself or do I have to replace the whole switch? If it can be replaced by itself can I buy it at the parts store and If I can does anybody have a part number? I have another switch if you need it. Keven Quote
HanksB3B Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) I there a way to bench test the head light switch? The one in my truck doesn't work and I have another one I would like to test before installing it. These switches last a lifetime. In most cases all that is needed is to carefully tape over the phenolic board with tape designed to withstand bead blasting. It could be done by hand the steel wool or Dremel route but bead blasting is far superior IMNSHO. Short (pun not intended) of that, opening the switch housing and thoroughly cleaning then using dielectric grease sparingly on the moving parts will buy another lifetime. When ever possible replace a worn or broken part with either a working back-up or better yet new while they are still available. Hank Edited March 14, 2013 by HanksB3B Quote
MBF Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Batt negative to the lug on the switch. A test light to batt positive. Move the switch to the park and head positions and by touching the probe to the various posts you'll see what is hot and when. You can do the same test with an ohm meter. If you want the parking lights to work when the headlights are on, hook them to the tail lamp post on the switch. I think I have a diagram of the post positions written down somewhere, but they may also be marked on the switch. I've had to take a switch or two apart to clean the contacts and lube the shaft and slider. Mike Edited March 14, 2013 by MBFowler Quote
Jim Roach Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 Thanks for all the help. I'll work on it when I get some time. Jim Quote
JBNeal Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Circuit breakers are meant to be replaced if damaged, I would not bother with repairing it cuz a new one is far safer. The headlight switch contacts can be cleaned & lubricated with dielectric grease as the switch can be carefully disassembled by prying them metal tabs back to release the 'circuit' board. Checking with a ohm- or mulit-meter is straightforward if ya know which post to check; I've got a wiring diagram stashed somewhar in one of the links in my signature that'll help a bit, looks kinda like this modified wiring diagram Edited September 7, 2015 by JBNeal Quote
Looznutz Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Posted March 14, 2013 What would you like for the switch Kevin? How many amps is that breaker? Mine does not have any markings and I found some at AutoZone but range from 2 amps to 50 amps. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 I'm thinking it's a 30 amp breaker, but I'm not positive about it. I don't have my shop manual at work. Quote
B1B Keven Posted March 14, 2013 Report Posted March 14, 2013 What would you like for the switch Kevin? You've got a PM. Keven Quote
1952B3b23 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 I'm thinking it's a 30 amp breaker, but I'm not positive about it. I don't have my shop manual at work. Im 95% sure Merle is correct, i dont have my shop manual at wiork either. Quote
Scruffy49 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Posted March 19, 2013 30 amp, and it is the exact same breaker as used on Harley Davidsons through the end of model year 1964. Not hard to find, not all that expensive either. Voltage honestly doesn't matter on these, 30 amps is 30 amps, the old glass fuses are the same way, amps, not volts. Read the package back, most of them are rated at 115V max... Quote
Brent B3B Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 recycling the title again is there a trick or suggestion to reattaching the headlight side of the bullet connector to the headlight switch? (working on 6v) these seem to have been riveted or pressed on and brass. I know it might be time to look for a new switch but if a guy can fix it........ Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 7, 2015 Report Posted September 7, 2015 unfortunately soldering them on could cause damage to the phenolic or in not a good clean connection...excess current drain that would cause failure of the junction..IF you want to try to connect these using a soldering iron..I would a minimum use the switch from this day forward only to operate a relay for the headlight circuit.. 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted September 8, 2015 Report Posted September 8, 2015 thanks PA, no doubt you are right. in the interim i used a screw to hold the connector down tight against my vice, set a punch in the center and with my third hand tapped it back. (just kidding on the third hand.... i really need to learn to ask for help) seems pretty tight, but i guess i'll take your advice and keep an eye out for a new switch 1 Quote
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