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Filter for radiator antifreeze, Fram,,


Robert Horne

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You have to be carefeul when using a coolant filter. If the motor has had many miles of a 50/50 mix, there will be lots of tiny particles of rust floating in the system. That will eventually clog the filter. So it is a good idea to keep a close eye on the filter as to not impede flow for the cooling system.

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You have to be carefeul when using a coolant filter. If the motor has had many miles of a 50/50 mix, there will be lots of tiny particles of rust floating in the system. That will eventually clog the filter. So it is a good idea to keep a close eye on the filter as to not impede flow for the cooling system.

 

 

This filter is attached to the heater hose.     

 

If the filter would clog, that would be no different than shutting off the heater valve.

 

The newer version is clear, so easy to see.     It does look like the new fuel filters, except it has 5/8 connections...

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The heater system uses the same coolant as the rest of the cooling system. So technically it would be filtering it all. Granted some particles might not make it into that loop. Would probably be worth the hastle if you have a really expensive or difficult to change heater core. Plus a clogged filter should only result in no heat and not an engine overheat.

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Coolant for a heater is a loop that circulates from the pump to the heater core. It does not go thru the radiator or mix with the other coolant.

 

You might want to re-think that a bit. If the heater coolent does not mix with the engine coolent then how does it get hot?

 

The heater supply hose is located at the hottest location of the engine. This is the back of the head on a flathead 6 engine. The hot water goes through the heater core and returns to the suction side of the water pump where it intermingles with the water being returned from the radiator. Much like how a by-pass oil filter works, all engine coolant goes through the heater core and radiator at some point.

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You might want to re-think that a bit. If the heater coolent does not mix with the engine coolent then how does it get hot?

 

The heater supply hose is located at the hottest location of the engine. This is the back of the head on a flathead 6 engine. The hot water goes through the heater core and returns to the suction side of the water pump where it intermingles with the water being returned from the radiator. Much like how a by-pass oil filter works, all engine coolant goes through the heater core and radiator at some point.

Absolutely, on a hot summers days, when engine temps get high, you could actually run heater blower motor to help dissipate engine coolant heat, if you can stand it.The heater coolant circuit is in no way independent from the main cooling system, how else would this coolant get hot, as you explain. Edited by C38Spitfire6
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Gents,

 

When I was in my 20's I got to see a mid-30's Cadillac with a V-16 and it was a thing of pure joy.  Two eight cylinder engines joined at the crank, two eight cylinder distributors, and an extra oil sump alongside the block where the dipstick went so the oil could be checked with the engine running.  This antifreeze filter reminds me somewhat of that extra oil sump in that it is a spiffy add-on but unnecessary because when the antifreeze is changed any crud in the system goes away with the old fluid.  I'd put an original one on Pigiron just because I'd be the only kid on the block to have one but wouldn't rely on it to do much other than go along for the ride.  I also wouldn't want to need to justify it to anyone any more than I'd want to justify not having an SBC under the hood.

 

Nice find, Robert.

 

-Randy

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I shoud have been alittle more specific...............yes, the coolant does pickup heat from the motor. But the coolant in the heater system gets there thru a bypass. I am not a flathead guru so I am basing this on a typical V-8 motor.

 

The flow is the same on a V-8. I hope this flow chart will help. The fluids are one and the same.

 

 

G6CoolantFlow.jpg

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Maybe what we need, is to get the electric out of the water.

I see on the Auto Parts websites, there are many coolant filters

available for cars. These look like oil filter that screw onto

a base..

I was wondering if anyone had installed some type of "sacrafice rod"

in a radiator, like that in a home water heater. With so many types

of materials, steel, brass, copper, aluminum, no wonder the cooling

systems get in poor condition....

post-1465-0-84538700-1360678438_thumb.jpg

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The filter should contain a coolant life extender. That's how the modern ones work for on highway diesel engines. As the coolant ages, it loses strength, the filter additive package helps to balance that out. Even our John Deere turbo diesels have coolant filters.

 

You can get filter elements that contain sacrificial anodes/plates to slow the galvanic corrosion action. You could also just drill and tap a coolant passage to accept the anode off an outboard motor lower unit. But, it will create another potential failure point...

 

Truck Pro, Fleet Pride or Tractor Supply Company should have add on inline coolant filter units. Do you need them,no. Do they help? All the big rig engine manufacturers seem to think so, or they would not have added them at the factory. You do have to match the coolant type to the filter type if it is a conditioner as well as filter. The conditioners aren't spec'd for "green goo", they require an extended life formula.

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Here is a ?, I have an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge in the 55 Fargo, but now have an electric sender for the stock gauge.

Could I plumb this into the heter hose outlet, just before the heat control valve.

The reason for this, I could keep both gauges, the factory gauge is the C-H type, and the aftermarket gives me numbers in degrees

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I shoud have been alittle more specific...............yes, the coolant does pickup heat from the motor. But the coolant in the heater system gets there thru a bypass. I am not a flathead guru so I am basing this on a typical V-8 motor.

Coolant flows from back of the head, through heater core, then exits and gets pumped back into water jacket through water pump, some have internal by-pass, some do not, it really is irrelevant. The only way water does not flow out the back off the head, is if a valve stops it, even if there is no heatercore, and is plumbed right back to the water pump, things will circulate and fairly quickly too... The by-pass, just allows this process, while t/stat is closed, until the engine temp rises, you already are aware of this, but some may not be.
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Here is a ?, I have an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge in the 55 Fargo, but now have an electric sender for the stock gauge. Could I plumb this into the heter hose outlet, just before the heat control valve. The reason for this, I could keep both gauges, the factory gauge is the C-H type, and the aftermarket gives me numbers in degrees

 

 

I am sure you could. But if the probe is not in the head the reading may not be accurate.

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I called the manufacturer regarding the radiator cap and the anode for use in our older cars. I stated that we have cast iron blocks and baiscally the hoeny comb radiator with the brass.

He stated that we do not need the anode in the radiator becasue we do not have any aluminum

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