3dodgedoobie Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 ok here is first question on new site. woohooo. info: 1952 dodge 1/2 ton truck 318,auto tranny, steering column out of a 1988 chrysler fifth avenue. it has the lean burn system on it. (, junk in my book) it was running real rich due to vacum issue and carb issue. i fixed the vacum issue and it is timed correct runs good, idles good. but wil run you out of garage from running rich. borrowed a better shape airbox off a fifth avenue and it stops all that. runs like a top and does real good. only problem cant find a donor car with good part that i need. now i have a 318 out of a 87 dodge fullsize truck. the truck runs great except for the tree that claimed the cab bed, well pretty much whole truck. i can reach in and start it with key. i was thinking about taking the carb and dist. off of the 87 truck and put on the 52 motor. which would convert it back to no computer carb. which i like. but which wiring harness are guys using for your basic stuff. all im going to be running in truck is lights, turn signals, ign,radio,brakelights, wipers, just the basics. the a/c will be windows and front vent. heat will be stockish setup. i was thinking painless wiring kit for simple install. but dont have to be that excact brand. can be other. but same principal. is this possible ? if i have to change/rewire turn signal, ign switch. on column i will. just dont want gm stuff in it. i like my dodge keys. any suggestions? oh and pulling wiring harness out of 87 truck is a no go. its been hacked several times over the years. half the stuff didnt work in it. it did good to start with key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 It's an easy harness to do yourself. If you do: (1) use the correct color wires, (2) use the correct connectors, (3) REMEMBER NUMBERS ONE AND TWO. If you do it yourself, you will learn to know your truck in a manner no other assembly will teach you. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 If it were me I'd ditch the lean burn system and get a regular ignition module, electonic distributor and a manual carb (no electrics). If you don't have to worry about emissions you should be fine. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 oh dont get me wrong pflaming. i get to know all my toys well. i built my dakota from ground up to show truck and if something wrong with it i can fix it. or why it did that. just hate electrical stuff, i have wired up many fuse boxes , just like the fact of them being labeled every so often. makes it nice if you ever have to splice into it for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 mb fowler i would love that just havent found any true numbers or anyone who knows how to get rid of the lean burn. over on the forum for fifth avenues it tells of a kit. but cant find the parts for it. if had numbers or what cars to find parts off of i could manage it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bach4660 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I have used EZ wiring cause it was the right price, and you get it in all in black (labelled every 6 inches) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I used a 9 circuit harness from rebel wire. Wires are well labeled and the price is right. When I had some questions about how to wire it up for the generator, I called the company and got great support from the owner. My only issue was the horn wire is too short for our application (it's setup to run on a GM column where the wire isn't as long), but that was an easy fix. I mounted the fuse panel in the glove box (made my own glove box out of sheet metal so it would support the weight). Here's a link to a picture. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c105/DanBabb/53Dodge/LocalHemi/GloveBox2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) spendy, but RIWire does a PHENOMINAL job on their harnesses. Lliterally plug and play. Edited January 24, 2013 by ggdad1951 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 3dodge: Go over to the slantsix.org site and search on lean burn-there are numerous threads and discussions on replacing the system. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DollyDodge Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I vote for Rhode Island Wiring, the stuff is expensive, but it is also a work of art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I seriously doubt that in his case the 1952 Dodge pickup with 1988 Chrysler lean burn ignition with the owner wanting to modify that to pre 75 module and carb is going to be supported by RI wiring..especially given the steering column and if the man is using the wiring and features that column will give him.. stock truck..yeah they tops..got a RI wiring harness here for the 47 Dodge..came with the car.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) I seriously doubt that in his case the 1952 Dodge pickup with 1988 Chrysler lean burn ignition with the owner wanting to modify that to pre 75 module and carb is going to be supported by RI wiring..especially given the steering column and if the man is using the wiring and features that column will give him.. stock truck..yeah they tops..got a RI wiring harness here for the 47 Dodge..came with the car.. ah....true, true, never thought of it that way (us pesky stock restorers and all) Edited January 24, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 wow. alot of places with harnesses. didnt expect that many companys. mbfowler i looked on slant six site and didnt think much of it. since mine was v8. but i will relook. i was thinking since had mid 80s 318 with 2bbl, and no computer, out of truck. i could make it work just buying few odds and ends. we going to junk the truck im going to keep motor and trans, maybe rearend. we have another one of these trucks around. just want to have as much info as possible to do it right. as for the wiring harness all black wire i might not do that one. everyone assumes blk is ground and dont want anything burnt up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) I use RI too for stock restorations both for supplies and correct direct install harnesses Last one I did was in a 3 passenger chrysler business coupe. In this OP's case try above recommendations as mentioned. I too am a keep em stock only guy. Bob Edited January 26, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55dodgec3 Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Getting rid of the lean burn system is easy. By all means, GET RID OF IT. Mopar Performance has a electronic ignition kit that has a dist. with a quick ign curve, the ballast resister, and control box. Wiring instructions included. I've done a few of these conversions in the late 70's, early 80's. Its a piece of cake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 55dodgec3 is that something i can call dealership and order or anyone online have it? what if i bought a 2barrel carb and a hei distributor. with a painless wiring harness. what else would i need? i would be fine with the conversion kit but i cant find it no where. dealership asks for vin and i dont have that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) Edited January 27, 2013 by Frank Elder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 is that everything needed? or still need carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 you will want a carb..they had electro-control on the lean burn babies you need to get shed of..I usually always looked for a 69-72 carb if sourcing from a car...can't advise what truck years are best.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Piece of cake. JEGS and Summit both carry the conversion dizzy/box/ballast resistor. Any Dodge dealership should still have Mopar Performance ordering capability, if not, go elsewhere. Carb is easy, just grab one off a small block slushomatic that has the kickdown going the right way. Some pull, some push. If you had an earlier 727 like I run in my 69 you could delete the kickdown and run a carb off a manual trans engine. Towed a late 50s or sometime in the 60s horse trailer from Seattle to Memphis, in March 2011. No kick down linkage, shifted fine the entire trip. 69 D100-128 318 2bbl 727 3.55 geared 8.75" rear end. Even easier... the dizzy, box and ballast resistor are just factory 1974 replacements to whenever they went to the gee whiz crap in the late 80s. You can still get good ones cheap at the boneyard... sometimes. I still run a points dizzy in the D100, never missed a beat going cross country... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I would reccomend a 2bbl 4412 Holley 500cfm carb for your 318. Since it sounds like your staying with a stock engine. You'll get the low-end torque out of it, and nice offline power too. There are a ton of ways to build up the carb (after all its the number 1 race carb on short tracks) and you won't have to high rev it to get the benefit of a 4 bbl. If you do want a 4 bbl, you need to do a bunch of upgrades to the heads and exhaust. Most stock 2bbl intakes are already set up for low torque, but you could use a 4bbl intake (gives you both worlds, high rev/low torque ) and get a plate to fit the 2bbl. Just a few ideas. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 48 dodger would that holley 4412 be correct linkage? i would rather keep 2 barrel on this truck for easy fuel mileage. i just want a truck to drive daily and not worry about drinking gas and eating up the extra cash.. besides my hemi drinks enough of it. i beleive i can find the carb. and a dist. just gotta get some cash saved up . bought some stuff for my other toy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Look through the racing sites for different linkage set ups. Its a common engine carb set for circle track racing. The Holley 4412 is the HP version of the Holley 2300 you find on daily drivers from back in the day. So make sure your holding a 4412, cuz they aren't the same. Those 2 barrels act like secondaries do on streetable 4 bbl's. Its more eco then a 4 bbl, but not gonna make headlines...lol. http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-4412C/10002/-1 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-4412s http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8003/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-7/10002/-1 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Ok fellas I gathered up the parts to swap it over. Now im getting rid of the whole wiring harness from the fifth avenue. I got a painless kit. But my question is with dist. One plug goes to the box (orange in pic up above) I noticed the dist has a 2 prong plug also. Where would that go. And where to put ballast. Just to make sure I hook that up correctly. And on the orange box any other wires go to it? Havent sat down and looked real close yet. Just trying to get idea before I start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Harness should have come with a multiple application installation booklet. I know the one for my EZ-wire harness has install instructions for Ford, Chevy, and points/electronic Mopar. Ballast resistor? You didn't step up to an internally regulated coil yet? Cheap cheap cheap, tell NAPA you need an Echlin coil for a Super Beetle... IC64 or similar. Or $20 at Autozone for a Ford coil with internal resistor. The factory ceramic block with micro spring over asbestos rope is a joke. Although, I had no problems with mine in the 4 years I've run it, cheap one from Autozone. Probably wires in differently since I still run points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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