ggdad1951 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Mark - First of all, I like how all your hardware and cables have fresh zinc plating - this is a top notch detail and looks great! The "AIR-OFF" knob is from a mopar car (got it from Neil Riddle) and was what I could find at the time - I've since found an AIR knob so now the gang of knobs at the dash control pod is all "correct". I was able to come up with a long cable for the air control valve by adapting a hood release cable I bought at the Car and Truck Shop in Orange, CA. See their catalog, page 29: http://www.scribd.com/full/96301675?access_key=key-27swkaiy967wyva19b8o On that subject, I wonder if there's any place out there that can rebuild these bowden cables? It would be great to send in the dash end and get installed any length of wire and sheath on it...anybody have any ideas on this? Or know of a place where cable could be bought in bulk? thanks for the compliment! I fooled ya tho! Those are just cleaned up old ones with some POR-15 paint! I don't know of any one rebuilding these, because I have about 6 dash ends that are in good contition with short cables! If anyone does know someone, PLEASE post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 thanks for the compliment! I fooled ya tho! Those are just cleaned up old ones with some POR-15 paint! I don't know of any one rebuilding these, because I have about 6 dash ends that are in good contition with short cables! If anyone does know someone, PLEASE post! Well I'll be dipped! POR-15 silver engine paint? Even if you could get bulk cable, it wouldn't be too hard to "re-cable" the dash ends. The wire looks to be brazed/swaged to the moving shaft the knob screws onto, and the sheath is swaged to the outer hard sheath at the dash bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 Well I'll be dipped! POR-15 silver engine paint?Even if you could get bulk cable, it wouldn't be too hard to "re-cable" the dash ends. The wire looks to be brazed/swaged to the moving shaft the knob screws onto, and the sheath is swaged to the outer hard sheath at the dash bracket. yes the engine enamle. MAYBE....the swedge is a hard thing to undo and then redo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallytoo Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 So will any of the truckmaster heaters work? Or is there one that is optimum for the defroster function? Do any of these have a two speed fan or variable speed control? jeff, according to the parts book, they aren't quite interchangeable (model 61/62/65). but, i wouldn't be surprised if any of them could be made to work, and reasonably well, with any particular pilothouse. i only have experience with the 61 driver's side defrost manifold type, so i can't comment on the passenger side discharge manifolds. it seems to me, though, that that's a much longer hose routing to reach the driver's side defroster opening/windshield, and therefore might be slightly less effective. mine does work reasonably well here in northern new england, although it can't keep up with freezing rain. wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 So Guy's it looks like the installation is relatively straightforward....if you have the parts. One question though. Is the fan switch a rheostat? Or do the fans in the truck master heaters come wired for a multi-position switch? Does any one have spec's or manufacturer data for these switch's? Or better yet a source? My truck had a small after market heater installed in it when I got it. The switch was missing but it only has 2 wires to the fan. Thanks again for all your valuable input. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 mine is a reostat, hence the variable speed, but also not "original". I kinda like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 I believe the OEM would have been a reostat also. My 48 plymouth uses one for its heaters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 (edited) I believe the OEM would have been a reostat also. My 48 plymouth uses one for its heaters. 3 position switch. Off, low and high. EDIT.... I just checked mine and it's a four position. Off, low, med. and high Edited December 18, 2012 by B1B Keven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Hmm.....Options So are the truck master fans 2 wire? or more than that? Just trying to get a picture of what is involved. And also start figuring out my wiring harness .......which I will be making myself. My dash (52) had a spot above the trim bar in the center that had the heater switch and a cigarette lighter installed. I am considering putting the defroster & fresh air controls in a line across that area instead of having the separate console. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Jeff, well, more of a 1 wire, and a second for ground. Since it's a DC motor it should run perportionally to the power applied to it. I have a totally restored (cleaned, painted and motor rewired) Model 65 all ready to go if you want to part that much $$ for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 (edited) My 49 has a rheostat heater speed control. Pretty sure it is still in the truck. I'm going 12v with a newer model heat/defrost/AC set up (1992 Ranger, I love having parts junkers around). Switch is yours if you need it (and I can find it). Heater isn't set up for a defroster if I remember right. Just went out and checked. Switch and braid covered wires look fine. Heater box has top of housing knock out plates for snap in defroster ducting, looks like 2 or 3 inch hose. Also has side knock outs. Doors are currently stuck closed but a dab of penetrating oil will take care of that. Design is so if the heat is on and you have defroster ducting, you get warm air from both locations. Edited December 18, 2012 by Scruffy49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallytoo Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 mine, with the 61, is a 3-speed switch, or 4 position if you count "off". the fan operates at three speeds: low, med, high. not a twist rheostat switch, a pull switch. has the knob that matches all the others on the dash, and reads "heater". the pictures show the resistors that are part of the switch, and they get hot during operation. a single wire runs from the switch to the heater. i run a voltage reducer in line between the switch and the heater, to drop from 12 to 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 My "Arvin" heater had/has a rheostat switch for variable fan speed. Apparently that was common back then. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted December 18, 2012 Report Share Posted December 18, 2012 Jeff, I've got an extra Defrost knob if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 Thanks Guy's for all the great photo's and assistance with this. I feel like I already have a good jump on this installation. Hopefully the truck will be painted soon and I can start in on finishing it up. Can't wait! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 (I didn't say anything....) Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 (I didn't say anything....) Hank That explains that green job you got....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 (I didn't say anything....) Hank Hank Well now I might just could squeeze that outta my budget! Where is Earl when you need him? I did have a painter come by last week and look at it......he wanted 5K. :eek:And I already have it down to bare metal and only want a couple of dents fixed. Sean and I about pissed ourselves! I had to tell him that is not going to happen. At this point I think I am just going to have Maaco squirt it. All I want is a work truck paint job and if it is a little bit funky...... so be it. On the plus side .... thanks to members of this group and ebay....I have already secured most of the main bits to do this fresh air and defroster upgrade. And that is going to be much more useful than an original AM radio........... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Hank Well now I might just could squeeze that outta my budget! Where is Earl when you need him?I did have a painter come by last week and look at it......he wanted 5K. :eek:And I already have it down to bare metal and only want a couple of dents fixed. Sean and I about pissed ourselves! I had to tell him that is not going to happen. At this point I think I am just going to have Maaco squirt it. All I want is a work truck paint job and if it is a little bit funky...... so be it. On the plus side .... thanks to members of this group and ebay....I have already secured most of the main bits to do this fresh air and defroster upgrade. And that is going to be much more useful than an original AM radio........... Jeff Jeff go talk to your local Maaco. If you can't bring the truck to them in person bring a bunch of photos and have a good talk with them. They will do as good a job as you want. The price just goes up as the quality does. They painted Dads jeep for $500 and it looked great. The only flaws in it were things we missed going body work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallytoo Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 I did have a painter come by last week and look at it......he wanted 5K. kind of hard to blame the painter, though. after all, it's what he does for a living, and his name will be associated with it, even if all you want is a "work truck" paint job. if he does a quickie that's less than his normal standards, well, that truck could be a negative on his reputation as an autobody painter. aren't you a builder/carpenter? i assume you can relate to the painter's point of view on the issue. even if the customer wants a low budget job, if the quality stinks, it hurts your reputation, and you can only do so much under the constraints of a budget. slap it on yourself, or talk to some friends who aren't pro-painters but have the equipment. they'd probably do it for the paint and a few beverages. wally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 actually I think 5K is a good price, I was quoted over 12K for FEF before Dave stepped up and helped me out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMoose Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 5K is a fair price, I just paid $1200 just to have the new grill bars, whiskers & parking lamp buckets for my 53 painted They did require major body work & they do look great! Labor costs are budget killers & paint is labor intensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 Believe me I know and I am not blaming the painter......although I explained to him in detail what sort of paint job I wanted before he even came and looked at it. But I do get it and I am sure he does real nice work. I suppose I probably have a much different set of preferences than most folks. I think an old truck should show it's age and battle scars. And if the paint were faded or not perfect well that is just fine with me. I just want paint....not primer. Not Rat rod.....just old work truck. If I would have had enough of the original paint to try and save it I probably would have gone that route. I probably could paint it myself......but I really don't have the time as my shop is busy now and I want to keep it that way. Also I am going to use the truck as my daily driver and really don't want to be worrying about where I park it or what get's thrown in the back. Honestly if there was a way to open a can and get a 20 or 30 year old paint job out of it then that is what I would do. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doghouse Posted December 20, 2012 Report Share Posted December 20, 2012 What you are looking for is possible. This was my first serious attempt at body work and paint. $50 of Tremclad and a $20 hvlp gun. Touch up paint at most hardware stores. Comes in gallon, quart and spray bomb. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 8 or 10 cans of Rustoleum Dark Hunter green over the factory metallic/pearl puke green. You want work truck? Doesn't get much more work truck than spray paint and water bed rails coated with house latex... I painted it in late 2004 or early 2005, it has chalked out nicely. Looks almost like factory enamels of that era now. Like this, taken earlier this year... Oh, per your PM yesterday... $10 + postage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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