Help me Identify this Plymouth Engine in my Dodge Truck?

[TennesseeVol51]

Hello,

This is my 1st post I have been lurking for quite a while.I am going to start a rebuild on my 1946 WD-15 Dogde Truck that me and my Grandpa bought in Florence,Alabama in 1982 together when I was 14 years old it has just been driven around the house for the last 30 years more on that story later.

Please can ya'll help me identify what year and model Plymouth is the motor in my truck?

I am a member of the 39-46 Dodge Yahoo group and no one could say for sure what this engine was.Here is some pics.

All the serial #'s have been removed from the block,I have been told this was common practice when installing a replacment engine back in the day.

The # stamped on the head is P---1554674-8

The # stamped on the block is 1326229-43

The # stamped on the Header is 18111805

The Carb is a Ball and Ball

Thanks in advance for anyone's help.I want to do this rebuild on the Yahoo group and this P-15 D-24 group also with the build progress on You Tube for all ya'll to watch.

I got to go to work now I will edit this post at work.

Bobby

[Plymouthy Adams]

the numbers you list are casting number...the only way to identify your engine corretly is by looking on the flat boss just above the generator and below the top of the block...the flat spot..the correct model and serial of the engine should be stamped there...HOWEVER...this will only identify the engine..it may have been swapped somewhere in time and it also could be ground flat as is common with bulk engine builders...lets us know what is stamped there...

[greg g]

Green tag on genny indicates 12v system, if original to engine would make it 56 or newer. That being the case it would be a 230, which you ca verify by pulling that little plug in the head above #6 cylinder. Apiece of stiff wire inserted into the hole will ride the piston through its motion allowing you to determine the travel 4 5/8 equals a 230. You may also use the distributor part number (found on the tag attached to the dist body to narrow tge engine series.

[Frank Elder]

The infamous P head.........

[TennesseeVol51]

the numbers you list are casting number...the only way to identify your engine corretly is by looking on the flat boss just above the generator and below the top of the block...the flat spot..the correct model and serial of the engine should be stamped there...HOWEVER...this will only identify the engine..it may have been swapped somewhere in time and it also could be ground flat as is common with bulk engine builders...lets us know what is stamped there...

Tim,

All the factory #'s have been ground off.I was just trying to find out what engine I had for the future when I order some parts.

Or does it even matter?

I am a total newbie on car engines.but I have been servicing and building racing dirt bikes in the woods for the last 30 years.I think if I can split the cases of a 2 stroke engine and build it maybe I can tackle this engine.

But I am very intimidated by valves rockers etc---I have never messed with

big engines before.I hope I can lean on everyone here to help me through this build.

I want to make it interesting.

Bobby

[TennesseeVol51]

The infamous P head.........

Is there something bad about the "P" Head????

[TennesseeVol51]

Green tag on genny indicates 12v system, if original to engine would make it 56 or newer. That being the case it would be a 230, which you ca verify by pulling that little plug in the head above #6 cylinder. Apiece of stiff wire inserted into the hole will ride the piston through its motion allowing you to determine the travel 4 5/8 equals a 230. You may also use the distributor part number (found on the tag attached to the dist body to narrow tge engine series.

Greg,

I will get the Dist number ASAP.

Are you talking about the plug in the head you can see in the picture by the spark plug wire?

[Jerry Roberts]

Is there something bad about the "P" Head????

No , nothing bad . In the past we were wondering if the P stands for Plymouth . It probably does , but that information seems to be lost to history . My head is marked with DT and that probably stands for Dodge Truck , but that is only a guess .

[Frank Elder]

Is there something bad about the "P" Head????

No, didn't mean to alarm you....a certain member on here thinks a p15 must have a P head to be a proper restoration...it's just a regular old head, thats all.

[DJ194950]

I think maybe a first question is in order. What do You want to do with this??

Restore, keep on farm and just wanting info, or license and drive on the road??

Engine info only needed for a few internal parts if a rebuild is needed.

Head gasket May vary between years but as explained in many earlier posts( use search functions) to read those.

Many states in older days used the motor # for registration, maybe reason the motor #'s where removed from your engine, as if stopped and a check was done, at least it did Not have the wrong #!

Do you have your state owners papers?? If so, what # was used as rego # ??

Maybe it will match the tag in the door post, or as mine does match the body tag on the fire wall.

Best, seems that you're enjoying the trip and wanting to know more about this great old Mopar!

Best to ya,

Doug

[Young Ed]

Without the code about the generator the next best external clue is the casting date. Look below the dist along the pan rail. Finding it will probably require pulling the dist and doing some cleaning. Anyone else notice the carb is sideways?? Bpbby I'd like to see a shot from the other side showing the intake. Also post a pic of the truck. I'm on the yahoo group too as I have a 46 1/2ton.

[TennesseeVol51]

I think maybe a first question is in order. What do You want to do with this??

Restore, keep on farm and just wanting info, or license and drive on the road??

Engine info only needed for a few internal parts if a rebuild is needed.

Head gasket May vary between years but as explained in many earlier posts( use search functions) to read those.

Many states in older days used the motor # for registration, maybe reason the motor #'s where removed from your engine, as if stopped and a check was done, at least it did Not have the wrong #!

Do you have your state owners papers?? If so, what # was used as rego # ??

Maybe it will match the tag in the door post, or as mine does match the body tag on the fire wall.

Best, seems that you're enjoying the trip and wanting to know more about this great old Mopar!

Best to ya,

Doug

I am going to make it a Daily driver and this will be my 1st old truck rebuild---I have only built vintage dirtbikes in the past.

I am going to go completly go through this truck.It is a unrusted original.It was only 36 years old when we bought it and it has been inside almost always the last 30 years.

I already have the entire front body work off the truck.

I don't have a title Alabama was a non title state and lord knows what Paw-Paw did with the bill of sale befor he passed in 1989.I will take care of all that later it will be no problem at the courthouse where I live here in Tennessee.

Bobby

[Rusty O'Toole]

Measure the length of the cylinder head. 23" = Plymouth/ Dodge 25" = DeSoto/Chrysler (also Canadian Plymouth/ Dodge and some Dodge trucks)

There is a pipe plug over the #6 piston. If you take out the plug you can measure the stroke of the engine by putting a wire or screwdriver down the hole and slowly turning the engine over.

The block length will tell you the bore, the stroke is the stroke. This will tell you what model of engine you have.

The distributor has an ID plate that will tell you what model it is, which tells you what points, condenser and distributor cap you need. It will also tell you the approximate year of the engine, if it is the original one that came with the engine.

The engines were pretty standardized over a long period of time. You should be able to work out what parts you need, even if you do not have an engine number.

[TennesseeVol51]

Without the code about the generator the next best external clue is the casting date. Look below the dist along the pan rail. Finding it will probably require pulling the dist and doing some cleaning. Anyone else notice the carb is sideways?? Bpbby I'd like to see a shot from the other side showing the intake. Also post a pic of the truck. I'm on the yahoo group too as I have a 46 1/2ton.

I will post some pics when I get home tonight I don't get off work till 3am.

Please don't laugh at the color and terrible back yard paint job the previous owner put on it.The only thing good about the color is it is Tennessee Vol Orange and Black fenders.

Also Ed everything on the engine has the most backyard shadetree crap and wireing you have ever seen!! But it runs and drives.I just don't know exactly how!!

The #'s are removed along the oil pan also Young Ed.

[greg g]

Yes, thhat plug unscrews,and after you poke through the carbon,along wire will ride the piston,thus telling you the stroke. Pretty siimple technlgy here,think of 6briggs / strattons in a row.between the 218 and the 230, is the stroke.

[Jim Benjaminson]

Chrysler Corporation sold new, in the crate, motors after the war. They did NOT have a serial number but should have had a brass tag riveted to the left side of the block with a number such as 219. These tags, of course, had a habit of disappearing over the years. The best way to determine the year of the engine is by the casting date - which you can find at the base of the distributer, in front of the starter. I believe there is a post elsewhere on this forum that pictures the casting date location and how to decifer it....

[TennesseeVol51]

Without the code about the generator the next best external clue is the casting date. Look below the dist along the pan rail. Finding it will probably require pulling the dist and doing some cleaning. Anyone else notice the carb is sideways?? Bpbby I'd like to see a shot from the other side showing the intake. Also post a pic of the truck. I'm on the yahoo group too as I have a 46 1/2ton.

Here is a couple of pics Ed it is the best I can do at 4am I think it will make a nice resto project--it will just be a lot of work like all projects are.I just hope I am up to the challenge.

Edited December 15, 2012 by TennesseeVol51

[Young Ed]

Looks good. Don't worry about the bad paint. Mine is the same way. It was originally all black. They didn't remove any thing to paint it red and didn't even bother to paint the inside of the box.

[TennesseeVol51]

Young Ed--Here is a better pic of the jerry-rigged carb!!

The serial #'s on the Generator are 1770754 GJC7012A 8M098689

Maybe this can give some clues.

I will get the Dist out when I get a day off.

Edited December 15, 2012 by TennesseeVol51

[wayfarerstranger]

WHERE n TN. do u live ??????

[TennesseeVol51]

WHERE n TN. do u live ??????

Not far from Lawrenceburg off the Natchez Trace.

[TennesseeVol51]

Green tag on genny indicates 12v system, if original to engine would make it 56 or newer. That being the case it would be a 230, which you ca verify by pulling that little plug in the head above #6 cylinder. Apiece of stiff wire inserted into the hole will ride the piston through its motion allowing you to determine the travel 4 5/8 equals a 230. You may also use the distributor part number (found on the tag attached to the dist body to narrow tge engine series.

The piston travel is the best I can measure 4 9/16th inches give or take 1/16th so is the a 230?

It will be the weekend before I can remove the distributor.

[greg g]

well 9/16ths is pretty closer to 5/8ths than 3/8ths so probably yes.

[wallytoo]

nice looking sheetmetal on the truck. looks like a really good project.

[TennesseeVol51]

Green tag on genny indicates 12v system, if original to engine would make it 56 or newer. That being the case it would be a 230, which you ca verify by pulling that little plug in the head above #6 cylinder. Apiece of stiff wire inserted into the hole will ride the piston through its motion allowing you to determine the travel 4 5/8 equals a 230. You may also use the distributor part number (found on the tag attached to the dist body to narrow tge engine series.

Greg I took the front fender off and the plate on the distributor was visible.So I got out the maginifying glass and read it upside down I think I was able to decipher enough #'s for ya'll to tell me what it is.

The #'s are-----------4111-1----------then 8U106189 ------I am not totally sure about the 2nd letter "U" and the 3rd number or letter if it is a 1 or a "I".

Does this help out any? Sorry everyone for being such a novice and asking so many questions.