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Posted

Now that I have your interest, my truck has a car rear end that has had the spring perches moved. "39" is hand stamped on the pumpkin so I am assuming it is a 3.9. I need a new seal for it but don't know what to order. The casting number is 663473-3. Can someone tell me what I have. The case has 11 bolts.

Part 2. I have tried to remove the seal with a puller (like a gear puller), but have not had any luck. Any suggestions on how to get it out? The drive pinion seems to be in the way.

Thanks for your help.

Don

Posted

To remove the inner axle seal I have drilled a small hole in the seal then used a small slap hammer to pull it out. Perhaps that would work on the pinion seal.

Dave

Posted

Remove the seal as noted earlier. Try to do as little damage to it as possible. There should be identification on it - maker and/or number. If so, any good parts supply should be able to match it up. Then you can figure out what the rear end is at your leisure.

Posted

Thanks for the helpful tips. Seal is out, but there are absolutely no markings on it. I will see if I can match a seal from the CR site. In the meantime, if anyone has a cross reference for the casting number (663473-3)that would be helpful.

Thanks,

Don

Posted
...I need a new seal for it but don't know what to order. The casting number is 663473-3. Can someone tell me what I have. ...

That, in a nut shell, is one of my biggest problems with modified cars.

I suppose somewhere someone has kept detailed notes about all the modifications they've made when 'improving' their car. But it seems like very few have. And having that set of notes go with the car when it is sold seems even more unlikely.

At least when it is stock you know what you are looking for.

Posted

I argee..I do keep a log of all donated parts, year and model and if a belt/hose or such the number etc for future repair/replacment. This is assembled in one booklet at the end of the build along with any schematics and or wiring changes to a donor harness that makes it specific to the build. this booklet stays in the vehicle glovebox and is transferred and I explain the importance of protecting this data to the new owner on transfer. I leaned long ago that leaving things to menory always get fuzzy over time..

Posted

Tim,

The only sites I have found for CR seals ask for all kinds of info I don't know: clearances, shaft metal, type of seal material, etc. Do you have a site that simply LISTS the seals by dimensions?

Your advice about keeping a note book is a great idea. I ran into some issues with my engine because although it was stamped with the engineering code T112 is was really from a later model Dodge car. Seems some states registered vehicles by engine number. If you replaced your engine the shop would grind off the number and restamp it with your registration number. Who knew?---well I do now!

Don

Posted
"Whose rearend do I have?" I haven't heard that question since the 70's

I just checked in my 1936-42 Desoto aster Parts Catalog. You are very close. The Desoto used the rearend Part number 663472 from 1937-1942. these were used on the regular cars and not on the 7 pass limos and 7 pass sedan.

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

I started keeping a log book on my vehicles after I sold my second car (a '40 Chevy in 1949) because I thought it was costing me to much to keep it... The guy I sold it to drove it for five years with very little trouble.

My wife is like most women, every time a vehicle needs tires, servicing and/or repairs she goes ballistic ranting about the money.. Her 20/20 memory will claim that the vehicle just got new tires a few months ago and/or was recently serviced.

I go out to the vehicle in question, get the log book and show her she is wrong. Of course she changes the subject.

The log books come in very handy when I decide to sell a vehicle... Every item pertaining to the vehicle, fuel, service, repairs and major trips are listed right in the log book.

It is kind of interesting to read the log book in my '36 Ford, a car I have owned since September 1952... A valve job in 1953 cost me $35. material and labor.. A complete rebuild of the engine, boring, new pistons, rings/bearings, balancing, surfacing the block and special head work in 1960 cost me $231.

I have used a book made by At-A Glance-- Auto Record -- for many years.. They use to be available at any stationary store.. I now have to order them on line from At-A-Glance..

I know... I must be some kind of a nut.... Bill

Posted
My wife is like most women, every time a vehicle needs tires, servicing and/or repairs she goes ballistic ranting about the money. Her 20/20 memory will claim that the vehicle just got new tires a few months ago and/or was recently serviced.

I go out to the vehicle in question, get the log book and show her she is wrong. Of course she changes the subject.

Your whole post is very good advice except for the part about your wife which I quoted. Ogden Nash once wrote a short poem about marriage. It is also excellent advice.:P

A Word to Husbands

To keep your marriage brimming

With love in the loving cup,

Whenever you’re wrong, admit it;

Whenever you’re right, shut up.

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