Fitting, flare, nipple question

[pflaming]

Why is it that a fitting can go into a nipple so easily UNTIL the steel tube/flare are involved? I understand that the tube impacts the start. If a fitting is VERY difficult to start, can that be an indication the flare is faulty? To connect this CHerokee MC and Valvue, with an inline brake switch, 14 fittings are involved. For a first time plumber this has been a challenge.

[TodFitch]

I've always attributed that phenomena to the tube holding the nut at a slight angle to the fitting.

[Dan Babb]

I found that unless the tube is perfectly lined up with the hole the fitting is going into, it's tough to get the fitting started. Takes some tweaking of the tube at the bend to get it all lined up.

It sucks, doesn't it?

[Dave72dt]

If the fitting spins freely on the tubing, there's nothing wrong with the tube or the back side of the flare. Hard starting or tightening is poor threads on the nut or the nipple or both. If the bend isn't 100 percent accurate it's going to create difficult starting or turning from the bind.

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

In addition to what has already been said here I would like to add one comment.

Sometimes the flare can be "oversized" on the exit side and this can prevent the threads from engaging properly. Try making up some short test pieces to prove the connection works. Certain types of fittings are fussier than others when it comes to this.

Jeff

[pflaming]

Jeff, would tighening the flaring tool 'overside' the flare? It seems a good double flare should show a niece ring of tubing forced inside. Is that a fair observation.

I only have one more fitting to connect. Tomorrow.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you were to loosen all the fittings and also the chassis mount for the item where possible, you would be able to flex it about for alignment..turning the nut backwards with pressure on the thread will allow you to fell the thread pop in place..while maintaining the pressure tigheten at this time..run it at least 1/2 way wup by fingers prior to putting a wrench on it..

[Don Coatney]

I've always attributed that phenomena to the tube holding the nut at a slight angle to the fitting.

I agree. The threads must be alighned prior to engaging.

And never ever use a wrench to start the threads.

Edited July 25, 2012 by Don Coatney

[NiftyFifty]

This is why I mounted my valve below the MC to give me more line and room to tighten things up by hand. If I would have had the motor out and could have made things tighter and neater I might have, but 110% agree with past posts on dead straight to thread in.

This also helps to make sure you don't cross thread and cause a leak. Remember no Teflon tape or pst on those fittings!

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

Yes depending on the tool you are using that can happen. Back in the 80's I ran quite a lot of high pressure stainless tubing for oil field instrumentation. If you do enough of it you can develop an eye for what is going to be good and what is not going to fly. Like any manual skill practice makes perfect....if you don't do it all the time you have to expect the odd flub up.

The bottom line is allowing for access issues...you should be able to start the thread by hand fairly easily.

Jeff

[pflaming]

Dinner and some fresh homemade coconut pie and the last fitting went in nice and easy. So tomorrow I will give each fitting a nudge to make certain all are snug to tight then bleed and see what I have.

OT Received a nice old rear bumper today. So it's now on the todo list AFTER I have driven this truck DOWN THE ROAD.

[NiftyFifty]

Just do one side at a time for bleeding, get a helper to

Pump up the brakes then hold the pedal down semi tight while you crack the bleeders. Go from side to side, fronts then rears. Don't put the pedal hard to the floor when bleeding, that can harm the mc.

Did 100's of cars like that in the old shop I worked at and always worked great.

[ggdad1951]

or if by yourself...POWERBLEEDER!

[NiftyFifty]

Never cared for those on brakes, that's different from the one we had but still found those better for bleeding slave cyl for clutches. Either way, make sure there's a good firm pedal at the end!

[BulldogTom]

You guys are getting me in trouble. Wife walks up behind me while I am reading the board and wants to know if this site is a porno site - all she saw was the word "nipple".

She smacked me up side the head for that one.

Tom

Hollister, CA

[TodFitch]

You guys are getting me in trouble. Wife walks up behind me while I am reading the board and wants to know if this site is a porno site - all she saw was the word "nipple".

She smacked me up side the head for that one.

Tom

Hollister, CA

Good thing it wasn't a thread on electrical issues mentioning the mating of male and female connectors...

[Don Coatney]

Good thing it wasn't a thread on electrical issues mentioning the mating of male and female connectors...

I am amazed at how many folks (both male and female) do not know the difference between male and female pipe threads. These folks come into the plumbing department and want a garden hose adapter. I ask if they want male or female threads and I get a blank "deer in headlight" stare. Then there are those who want a replacement water hose valve. I ask them what size pipe they have and they get mad at me because they were too stupid to measure. It took me a while to learn the proper hand jestures to show a lady the correct way to use a toilet plunger. A plunger both pushes and pulls and making a fist and moving it up and down is not a good jesture to use.

[pflaming]

Don, the administer penalized me for 30 days for the word 'gazillian', you better be careful or you'll join my xclusive club!