Jump to content

2 door cranbrook?


flatheadtim

Recommended Posts

well, the glass is a bit expensive but in reality not off the price in replacing. Odds are the rubber is shot and will not be useable..(almost a guarantee) so with glass cost of approx 450.00 less rear glass and the cost of the seals you will hit 1000.00 before you hit the road. This estimate should be enough to include the material for the antirattles and the glass channels both door and rear roll up glass..however if it were a fixed window coupe it would be about the same as the rear seals are quite expensive also..

I just got new glass for the bz coupe..all flat glass..7 pieces were cut, polished and fired for safety glass to todays standard while the front two are just laminated..the 9 pieces total in smoke gray delivered to my door was 427.00 with setting tape. These are cut from NAG pattern on a CNC cutter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think the price is negotiable; slap $900 cash in front of him and see what happens. I'd buy it for that if the body looks good and the title is clear. There's not very many decent 60+ two door cars that are worth saving left in that price range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unlike the earlier Plymouths, these 49-52 era cars are very very heavily rotted in the floors and rockers. Trunks on the other hand are fairly sold and if this is a two door the rear quarter glass drains into the bottom and thus this area usually has rot as high as 6 sometimes 8 inches. Glass channels at the pinchewlds hold up good, body rot left and right of the trunk like the P15 is also susceptable to some degree of rot and as always the trunk channel for the seal is usually damaged also. Most all the pot metal trim is really pitted due to cheaper material due to the Korean war..Ihave yet to see one f these upper grille bars not damaged to some degree or another. Fender spears are hard to comeby for the Plymouth excelpt it seems for the Concord class. But all in all the cars stil have the features of what most folks call the fat fendered era, split windshield, cowlk vent, bolt on back fender..whay they are not offically consider a fat fender ihave no clue..they should be included for sure..

These bodies are still not what most call collector due to post 48 but given its a two door and the market is shifting toward more readily available cars..one might consider getting it if the price is right. Just do look it over close as the metal repair will eat your time and a few coin in fixing. Be sure to look this car over close for another valuable option, the OD unit...these car were the first to get the R10 part way into production of the 52 model..could be this item alone that would make grabbing it an asset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Frankie: I paid $50 each for my door glass which seems about right from what I read. But as others have stated, thats just the beginning and I would hate to put glass into FOUR doors. I'm beginning to more fully uinderstand the cost in time and money to fix a car vs a truck and that will not be my next project. A coupe would be a bit easier I guess and I may be wrong about that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as far as the coupe..its not so much the easier..if you have the quarter glass stationary or if you have roll up rear glass in club coupe of later design..material is quite expensive for molded glass seal fixed style say 133.00 set..time you get the fuzzies in and out and the channel for club coupe w/roll-ups..it runs right up there also then you have the added challenge of affixing the wipers in place as the original clips are NLA and were actually molded into the wiper when new...can all be a pain and time consumer..cost is quite high either model you have..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

none of this stuff is cheap and you can save a bit by shopping around..

for the coupe I am building Ihave this so far..

Clesters, front windshield rubber 60.00 , rear glass rubber 45.00 , door seals 55.00 set and trunk seal 25.00

Steele; quarter glass 133.00, vent glass seal 160.00 (can we all say ouch)

Roberts Motor parts: gas tank grommet 9.50, tail light gasket 15.00, fixed dimension cowl vent one piece molded 15.00 wiper p[ost pads 4.25 and license light housing pad 11.00

Restoration specialties: inner fuzzies, outer fuzzies, channel, clips, hood to cowl welt, and diver post for vent glass

of course you can do one stop shopping but the math makes me light headed..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...I sold 2 Wayfarers last year in apparent similar condition for $1500 each...

Unless there has been a change, I recall hearing that the factory quit making these cars awhile back.

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...I sold 2 Wayfarers last year in apparent similar condition for $1500 each...

Unless there has been a change, I recall hearing that the factory quit making these cars awhile back.

.

I agree, they are getting hard to find for restoration or rodding purposes. I just paid $1500.00 for this one and was glad to get it for that. Needs floors but everything else is there.:P It will stay stock.

DSCN8136.jpg

DSCN8151.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you are lucky the hood finisher, lenses and grill finishers were in the car along with the letter D..good find

Yeah Tim, I guess there are a few items missing.:P Some of that stuff was inside but some was not. Letter D will be a toughie as it is different from the left hand side D. Anyone got one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robert, sorry..thought all the parts was there..the letter D is a curve unit and for some reason seems to be the one first to go missing..I would extend one to you from the car here but it is missing also..The last parts car I got I am holding onto for a better look at later so have decided not to part it out for now..couple small things missing but only one small piece of exterior chrome is gone..at first I though the engine was locked up..checked again this weekend after getting a better grip..turns nicely..pretty dang lucky all around I say..the big butts do grow on a person though..seems more and more are being purchased..and this is slowly making the early 50's car more valuable..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tim, there were actually a lot of things I found in the car when I cleaned it out but a few bits of trim are AWOL. Front floor boards are AWOL too but my guess is they are in small pieces and likely to be found where the car was sitting.:P You should come up and visit and I'll put you to work as a fabricator for new ones. I have always admired your fabrication skills.

If you ever come across a middle D, let me know. Somewhere in Georgia is a needed part in Alberta!........................correction, all the letters are the same except for the middle D which have different parts numbers for US and CDN cars. Should be a fun search. Maybe I will just leave it DOGE and people will think I am Venetian!:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should come up and visit and I'll put you to work as a fabricator for new ones. I have always admired your fabrication skills.

And on your way there or back stop by with an extra set of floors for my 51 2dr! Its so rusty the floor supports are gone too and the transmission hump is coming apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And on your way there or back stop by with an extra set of floors for my 51 2dr! Its so rusty the floor supports are gone too and the transmission hump is coming apart.

Ed, have you checked out any vendors for replacement floors? Plymouth Doctor likely has them but although his parts are great, he is a bit pricey. I have heard not so good stories about other suppliers but maybe you have found one that is good. Plymouth Doctor is kind of like Steele Rubber, expensive but the product is superior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ed, have you checked out any vendors for replacement floors? Plymouth Doctor likely has them but although his parts are great, he is a bit pricey. I have heard not so good stories about other suppliers but maybe you have found one that is good. Plymouth Doctor is kind of like Steele Rubber, expensive but the product is superior.

I haven't. This car is so rusty no one makes enough panels to fill it all in. I put a 1/2 assed patch in the drivers side to make it somewhat mobil again and I'm keeping my eye open for a better shell or a good parts car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use