Steering Wheel Restore Chronology

[pflaming]

Part 1

Well I'm deep into the process. Some observations: (1) have nice warm PC-7, (2) you have lots of time so no need to hurry, (3) a small knife works better than a putty knife, (4) press the epoxy into the crack(s), leave then come back and repeat, (5) after it sets a bit, place the tool of choice in lacquer thinner and you can put a finish on, much like finishing concrete, (6) an hour or two later, take a cloth, dip it in lacquer thinner and you can do a lot clean up.

I cleaned with a 230 grit then 600 grit w/d. Very messy, then I worked the cracks with a dremmel, blew it all out and then sprayed it all with electronic cleaner and left it over night to be sure it was all dry.

I painted the horn button chrome then black to get black rings and messed it up. Chrome paint seems to be very thick and SLOW drying. So I took it to a friend and we refaced it on a lathe. I had him remove the two inner rings so I can put some decal or _______ in that circle. More on that later. The ring I painted with aluminum paint.

Edited February 2, 2018 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Part 2: After cleaning then the PC-7. It's like sticky puddy, the warmer it is the easier to handle. I was around 70 degrees, marginal. Now the wheel is under the heat lamp for night, then I will touch it up and let it dry for another day before I start sanding.

One of the forum members restored from the inner steer ring. After what little I have done, that is impressive.

More in a couple.

Edited November 15, 2017 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

I am also in this process, I have the PC 7 curing on the yolk of the steering wheel, will sand and shape that up tomorrow, lots of filling need to be done on this wheel.

I will also post pics , not a bad job though, hope yours and mine turns out good, which I am sure it will....

[55 Fargo]

Okay, have started my steering wheel refurbishment.

I have used a spare wheel, it was broken up pretty bad in the back of the hub.

So far I have about 2 hours into it, I have PC7 epoxied the hub, and worked it out, it needs more massaging yet, as well as the cracks on the wheel itself.

Here are 2 pics....

[pflaming]

PC-7 finishing: I wondered how hard the PC-7 would get. After 12 hours it is easy to work with. First some heavy grit then very fine grit. I am guessing that the epoxy will get much harder when it gets cured.

By using an old bolt from the bed, with the large carrage head, tight in the bench vice, it is quite easy to work on the wheel. I'm going to refinish the wheel, then let it cure in the house for a day or two, then recheck for places I missed.

Rockwood, Looks like your hub was in worse shape than mine. What color are you going with? Fun stuff. Great forum.

Color: I invite those who have good pictures of your refurbishished steering wheels, to post them, car steering wheels also.

Edited November 15, 2017 by pflaming
Color:

[1952B3b23]

Is there a special kind of paint you can use on the steering wheels? During hot summer weather the sweat on my hands rubs off the black from the steering wheel and i get all sorts of messy. Im hoping i can paint it or do something else to keep it from doing so, any ideas?

Thanks,

-Chris

[Merle Coggins]

Is there a special kind of paint you can use on the steering wheels? During hot summer weather the sweat on my hands rubs off the black from the steering wheel and i get all sorts of messy. Im hoping i can paint it or do something else to keep it from doing so, any ideas?

Thanks,

-Chris

That's because the protective coating is all worn off and now you're working on the plastic material.

I just painted mine with the same paint I used on the bed parts. Black Industrial Imron. It has cracks at the base of the spokes but they're hard to see unless you're looking for them. I just wiped it down with lacquer thinner, let it dry good, sprayed on a coat of primer, and shot it with the Imron. It's nice and smooth with no "black hand" issues.

Merle

[Young Ed]

Is there a special kind of paint you can use on the steering wheels? During hot summer weather the sweat on my hands rubs off the black from the steering wheel and i get all sorts of messy. Im hoping i can paint it or do something else to keep it from doing so, any ideas?

Thanks,

-Chris

Thats the exact same reason I painted the one in my car. I painted mine with epoxy primer after fixing the cracks and then 2part automotive paint. Unfortunately whatever epoxy I used(it was something leftover) on the couple cracks has recracked again. I'm hoping to pull my truck wheel and repaint that one too so I can get rid of the crappy wannabe leather wrap that is on it.

[Dave72dt]

"V" the cracks before filling them so you can get good penetration. You would "V" it for a metal weld of this type. This is the same thing using a chemical weld.

[pflaming]

Dave: I have welded some, so I understand the "V" need/benefit. In your opinion, does the cracking come from separation from the original material or from shrinkage? If from shrinkage, then the cracking should occur as it is curing, if not then the cracking COULD come from the wheel flexing when used as a handle to get into the cab. That could acount for some cracking and some not. Did you have any cracking on some large area that you rebuilt?

I am thinking of redrilling all my cracks and refilling but . . . that thought gives me pause.

[Dave72dt]

I think it's a combination of flexing and age deterioration so it may be shrinking as it gets older and more brittle. I've never used PC-7 on a steering wheel but have on other items where I didn't want the epoxy to run away on me. I've been told the black stuff coming off the wheel is the oxidized part of the parent material. I guess you could compare it to surface rust on steel.

[ggdad1951]

where I currently sit using the POR product. Very easy to use.

[55 Fargo]

PC-7 finishing: I wondered how hard the PC-7 would get. After 12 hours it is easy to work with. First some heavy grit then very fine grit. I am guessing that the epoxy will get much harder when it gets cured.

By using an old bolt from the bed, with the large carrage head, tight in the bench vice, it is quite easy to work on the wheel. I'm going to refinish the wheel, then let it cure in the house for a day or two, then recheck for places I missed.

Rockwood, Looks like your hub was in worse shape than mine. What color are you going with? Fun stuff. Great forum.

Color: I invite those who have good pictures of your refurbishished steering wheels, to post them, car steering wheels also.

PC & cures as hard as rock, IMHO. The sanding and shaping is somthng like fibreglass filler or Metal to Metal filler, sands and shapes not bad, you can slick her real fine with 400 paper too.

I Have mine wrapped in saran wrap, where I have used this on on the steering wheel ring. I will let this set till late tonight or tomorrow morning, then will take off plastic wrap and see what the result was.

The point for me, is this is my 1st time doing this, it will be 100% better than it was, even if it is not a fantastic job, but I will work with it for a few days and see what I can do. The hub was real bad, and it turned out pretty darn good.

I am painting mine with Tremclad Professional Series rattle can gloss black. I like this stuff, and it dries real quick, being an alkyd enamel, it will take some time to cure.

But being in the truck on nice sunny days will speed that process up.

If I do not like my results, will try this again, with another steering wheel, and I have to do my 47 Chrysler wheel, but it is in great shape, except for a few cracks on the ring itself.....

[Jeff Balazs]

I did a cheap fix on mine. It was so nasty that I didn't even want to put my hands on it........that's pretty bad if you consider how my hands usually look.

Surface prep was about 2 hours of careful sanding. Got all the old coatings and crud off. I used JB epoxy on mine. Took 3 applications......to get all the cracks filled, filed and sanded flush. Cost $7.

For a finish I used rattle can plastic patio furniture finish in Satin Black. Looks really good. Another $7.

Honestly this wheel was so bad I didn't think it was worth the time..... I am happy with it now.

Jeff

[pflaming]

Rockwood: To get mine to cure faster I put it under a heat lamp for about 6hrs which really warmed up the hub and set the epoxy. It also revealed a few hair line cracks, aided by spraying the wheel with electrical cleaner. But they are not a concern. Will sand and sculpt today. I've been bringing the wheel in the house for night. Should be able to prime and paint tomorrow.

Question: should I leave a rough area for the steering knob clamp!

[PatS....]

Color: I invite those who have good pictures of your refurbishished steering wheels, to post them, car steering wheels also.

1949 Chrysler

From just wire to this...done by Tom Fonte in Simi Valley CA

[Barry Maxwell]

Used PC-7 to fill many cracks followed by sanding, priming with sandable primer, and painting with acrylic urethane. I was pleased with the finished product.

[55 Fargo]

Okay, let more PC7 cure since yesterday, removed the saran wrap, things are okay.

I need to sand all the PC7, and may need to add more, or might use some 2k polyester glaze I have.

Here are the pics, and 2 of my dog, having a snort over the whole thing, now Paul have you had to have a drink over these durn wheels yet........LOL

[pflaming]

No but I have sniffed the gas tank on occasion. Hint!, when you sand that PC-7 have an air hose handy, maybe have the dog hold it. The air cleans the sand paper and you know instantly what is happening. As you already know that PC-7 dust is very fine, like powder!!!

Primered my wheel this evening. Will look at it tommorrw.

[55 Fargo]

Hey Paul, your steering wheel like mine will be a 100% better than before, and hey if you want to reallly spend the time and finesse them, they will be even better.

I know my wheel, was in very rough shape, with lots of fine cracks, and big cracks on the hub, and at all 3 spoke joints, so it will be a big improvement.

If you need a show piece or super quality, then I would get an NOS wheel or have mine recast. But for good ole driver quality, will get it the best my time and patience will allow.

I will post pics once all the PC 7 is sanded, and after the wheel is painted, I know it will look pretty darn good, as yours will too.

Yes the rattle cans will take more coats, as it shoots out thin, thats fine, I might load up my gun with black acrylic enamel paint, and add a gloss hardener, but most likely will use the Tremclad. I also have some 2 k high build urethane pirmer , but the solvent is pretty agressive, and do not want to soften the PC 7 either.........

[pflaming]

Rockwood: Do you have a national listing of AA?? I would have sworn that I had filled all the cracks but the primer TELLS ALL? I may get the PC-7 out and work on a couple before I paint. This morning I buffed the wheel with a 'brillo' pad, the gave it another coat of primer. Gonna take a drink to clear my thinking: which one, dark beer or whisky?

Question: Rockwood, what is Thimclad? Barry, what is acrylic urethane? Anyone else can answer as well.

To the fellow painting novice, I've found that primer is VERY revealing. I used a black primer, maybe a white primer would have hid the cracks, but then the black paint would have shown them, so maybe the black primer has given me a 2nd chance. I would NEVER do this for someone else. It's enjoyable but challenging.

Edited April 14, 2012 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Rockwood: Do you have a national listing of AA?? I would have sworn that I had filled all the cracks but the primer TELLS ALL? I may get the PC-7 out and work on a couple before I paint. This morning I buffed the wheel with a 'brillo' pad, the gave it another coat of primer. Gonna take a drink to clear my thinking: which one, dark beer or whisky?

Question: Rockwood, what is Thimclad? Barry, what is acrylic urethane? Anyone else can answer as well.

To the fellow painting novice, I've found that primer is VERY revealing. I used a black primer, maybe a white primer would have hid the cracks, but then the black paint would have shown them, so maybe the black primer has given me a 2nd chance. I would NEVER do this for someone else. It's enjoyable but challenging.

Paul Tremclad is "Canadas" Rustoleum, made by the Rustoleum corp.

Acrylic Urethane is just that, a 2 Urethane paint, SS ,without a Clear over it, it has its own gloss.

I opted to mix my own paint high gloss Rustoleum black, reduced with Medium speed enamel reducer, and a dab of Gloss hardener Evercoat DOI. I shot this with my elcheapo gravity feed HF type HVLP spray gun, 1.4 tip. This gun laid down the paint just fine, but isa little big for a small job, but coverage way faster thana rattle can.

Here are the pics

I could have prepped a lot better, the cracks are filled, but lines are showing, meaning it needed more fill. I do not have the time these days to really play with this.

I would however use lacquer thinner, to smooth out the PC7 for a better prep, this would result in using a lot less PC7, and would smoooth and slick it along the cracks. Live and Learn. I would also try a 2 k polyester glaze to finalize the prep. Then I would use a 2k urethane high build primer, then sanded slick, before shooting ona topcoat.

But it is a whole lot better than it ever was, and nice shiny black paint

[pflaming]

Rockwood: " . . . lines are showing . . ." I'm finding the same thing, can't feel the crack, but can see it now. I see you have a different wheel than I do. Your spokes make a "T", mine make a "Y". My wheel is a "'52. I like the rings on my wheel's rim, but a lot of them had large cracks and even more had hairline cracks.

Thank you for your response, I hope we're not boring others. The details are often hard to find, so this type thread sortof addresses that. My mother made an unusual bread, all her friends tried her recipe but could not replicate her's. Then one lady asked if she could watch her and did. Guess what, my mother did something small thing she was not aware of and was not on her recipe. Details.... they make the difference.

Edited April 14, 2012 by pflaming

[55 Fargo]

Hi Paul, the steering wheel does have a lot of grooves, knurled into the rim, some look like cracks, do you have the same?

This is a 1955 wheel. The thing is this, and others can jump in. When these wheels are so full of fine cracks, and mine was and the wider cracks are easier to fix.

This wheel, was broken off on the back of the hub, 2 big chunks fell out, all the spokes had major cracks at the joint of the wheel itself. Now this is a major improvement.

I also could let this first coat paint cure real well, then use glaze, or even lacquer spot putty glaze, and get her super slick without cracks, I would think, you would have to fill and smooth, at least 2 more times.

You know when a wheel is this bad , it needs to be recast for any sort of perfection.

My truck is an old clunker, it will get a paint job, I can handles that part too.

I found trying to sand and smooth this steering wheel, harder than a lot of body work prep I have done, it is not the easiest to work with.

I invite all of those who have had this challenge, to share there recipe for success. I do know I have about 5 hours into this wheel, and others have spent 20 hours to perfect the job.

[pflaming]

This wheel has 'beauty rings' on the outside rim. They go half way around. They help the wheel shrink and crack!!! Well I'm going to paint. I have it under a heat lamp so the hub will be nice and warm. Where do I get that paste you speak of. Do you rub it on like grease?

Your wheel looks great. Once you add the horn button and a steering knob you will be set.

The 'glads' are starting to open. I like the flower.

Edited April 14, 2012 by pflaming