Shock absorbers

[pflaming]

Question #1: If a shock absorber was new 20 years ago and 'sat' for those years, what are the chances it is still good?

Question #2: How does one test if a shock absorber is still good whatever its age?

[pflaming]

I just read a thread on refilling shock absorbers. Very interesting. Does anyone have pictures of a shock absorber that has been taken apart?

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

For what it is worth. Good shocks can make a huge difference in the way any vehicle rides. Shock technology has come a long way since the 50's. The seals and internal valving in particular........not to mention gas charging. I have rebuilt old oil dampened shocks in the past. It is a fair amount of work and the sealing surfaces must be in excellent condition if you want to have any hope of them working. Even then a modern shock of decent quality will blow them away.

From one who has rebuilt them......it is not worth it.

Jeff

[pflaming]

Thanks Jeff. I'm not trying to be cheap, but not foolish either. I took one and pushed against it on the shelf, I could not get it to resist me. If it won't resist that kind of pressure, it certainly won't resist the truck.

Now since I have your attention, which shocks? Midas? The 94 year old lady with 400,000 + miles used midas and sears lifetime guarantees and only bought one set of each for the duration. Interesting story. She's still alive, but had to give up driving this month due to her eyesight.

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

I don't know how any shock can have a lifetime warranty.....

I bought a set from Napa for about $80 +/-

I don't expect them to last a real long time. It is a wear item like tires or brakes. You can certainly buy better than these. You just have to find the right size ones for our trucks.

Jeff

[Young Ed]

My shocks from Napa have a lifetime warranty but they told me they no longer do it. I suspect back then they assumed the shocks would outlast either the vehicle itself or atleast the length of time the current owner would retain it. I bought that truck at 8x,xxx miles and its up to 205,000. Might be time for another set

[Desotodav]

What sort of money do you guys suggest a fella should pay for a set of shock absorbers? Are these ones that Atlas keep listing (for around $190) good buying? ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/370375861511?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_500wt_1156 .

Desotodav

[Dave72dt]

Fairly competitive for premium gas charged over the counter. I wouldn't say they're bargains. About the same price for KYB's gas charged.

[Jerry Roberts]

Question #1: If a shock absorber was new 20 years ago and 'sat' for those years, what are the chances it is still good?

Question #2: How does one test if a shock absorber is still good whatever its age?

#1 If the shock had part of the shaft exposed to moist weather , it would probably be rusted after all of those years and not seal . If it was in the compress position , it might be OK . #2 If you have the shock loose and in your hands , try compressing and expanding it . It should have plenty of resistance . If it is still mounted in the vehicle , put all of your weight on the bumper on that corner of the vehicle and jump off . The vehicle should not bounce more than once . Remember that the shock works by dampening movement .

[IanT_Qld]

I have just had ones for a Toyota Landcrusier ones fitted under the front, (PS also had a broken spring, fortunately had a spare set in the shed.) Dont know how they feel i havent got it back from the mechanic yet.

[Desotodav]

I did the same with mine Ian - Monroe shocks for a Landcruiser. The cost of around $100 each was a little high though. Thinking of getting some from abroad for the 52 coupe truck. Are you finally working on that old truck of yours? Bit cold down that way at present!

Desotodav

[IanT_Qld]

Not exactly me doing the work. It always it takes longer than planed, or estimatied. I really should get a "todate" price from the mechanic, its been in his shop for 2 months. I am getting "mates rates" as it is a back-up job.

When it gets out I will still have to sort the lights and get tyres, then it should be on the road.

[HanksB3B]

Someone (might have been Merle) posted this a while back I followed the advice and got my shocks from Auto Zone...made my old roofing truck feel like a Porsche (well...relatively speaking)

Hank

Old Post:

I got my shocks from Auto Zone and they fit and work perfectly. They even had one set in stock, which supprised the young kid behind the counter. So I sent to their web site and looked them up again. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/

Here are the specs that they show for their Gabriel Guardian shock absorbers.

Front - Part number 81147 ($19.99 each)

Extended length = 20.23 inches / 514mm

Collapsed length = 12.37 inches / 314mm

Stroke = 7.86 inches / 200mm

Rear - Part number 82007 ($19.99 each)

Extended length = 18.23 inches / 463mm

Collapsed length = 11.73 inches / 298mm

Stroke = 6.86 inches / 174mm

EDIT: Since my truck (Merle?) is a B2C and Fernando's is a B3B I had a look again. They show the rear using the same part number but the front uses P/N 61500, although the length specs are the same.

Edited April 6, 2012 by HanksB3B

[David Muma]

check here.... http://www.monroe.com/catalog/e-Catalog... I was able to get shocks within 1 day from my local Parts Source store. Cost me around $75 each.

[John-T-53]

I got a new set of front shocks from Rare Parts. The shocks are 19" fully extended, and don't slip on the frame with the suspension fully uncompressed (the engine is out). These are just short by 3/4". They are 12" compressed.

Should I compress the suspension and install these shocks, or will they be a problem (bottoming out) if the truck experiences some serious rebounds?

Seeing as how the NAPA 94008 shocks are 19 1/2" and the Gabriels are 20 1/4", I have doubts. Or am I just over thinking it? What do you guys think?

UPDATE: The springs have been rebuilt and re-arched. Rare parts has heavy duty shocks available that are 19.9" x 12.25". Would a HD shock make for a rougher ride?

Edited August 20, 2012 by John-T-53

[Dave72dt]

Two ways to look at it. Your springs are weak and allowing more droop than they should or the shocks are too short. Shocks are not supposed to bottom out in either direction.

[Jeff Balazs]

John;

My take on this is that you should never fit a shock that is too short or has less travel than the original equipment. Doing so has to have some negative effect......it only stands to reason that if you restrict the travel distance something has to give. Probably shorter seal life at the very least.....and quite possibly a less than optimum ride or handling.

If I were going to mess about with shock selection for one of these trucks..and I may once I get mine on the road.....I think I might consider fitting a slightly longer shock with adjustable pre-load as this type of substitution actually stands a good chance of improving the ride and handling characteristics.

I see where a lot of fellows remove leafs to lower the truck or give it a softer ride...or both. While it might look better (to some) I think a mod like this often results in a ride that may be fine under some conditions and have a nasty surprise lurking under other road conditions. At the very least it has got to make shock selection far more critical.

Jeff

[Dave72dt]

Adding the weight of the engine, etc. will load the leaf springs to the point where the shocks can be installed. I don't reckon you'll need much use of them shocks if your motor ain't installed...

BTW, here's some more info onthis topic

Adding the motor won't change the uncompressed distance, only the at ride height distance. I'm assuming the truck is supported by the frame and not the axle.

[John-T-53]

Adding the motor won't change the uncompressed distance, only the at ride height distance. I'm assuming the truck is supported by the frame and not the axle.

Correct on both. Basically if the truck hits a big bump and the front momentarily uncompresses all the way, we don't want the shocks acting as the "stop". I guess the bigger question is will this condion ever realistically be encountered. Will put up some pics later on.

[John-T-53]

Here's some pics of the current situation...

[NiftyFifty]

Mine were the same when i got them, with the engine in and weight on the axle I bet they would have travel in both directions. Unless you plan to Dukes of Hazzard your truck you should never be stretching the front springs to max flex like you have it now

[Merle Coggins]

I concure

[John-T-53]

Thanks for the input. I'll see what it looks like when the engine gets dropped in...and try to not get involved in a police pursuit.

[pflaming]

I took on leaf out of all my springs. I put a 'gift' pair of shocks on the rear and they worked for few short drives then went solid. They were longer than the ones I removed.

So now, I measure the distance from post to post with the truck on it tires and then get a shock that gives me an equi-distance lift and push stroke? Or, advise ___________________

[NiftyFifty]

You can always try not to get into a chase "Common Flash, we gonna git those dodge boys" lol