distributor wires

[eric wissing]

Is there a good place to get a set of distributor wires (from spark plug to distributor)? Is there a name for this ??? My mind isn't working so well today. I noticed one wire was loose at the distributor and the rubber cap that seals it over the distributor cap was falling apart. Maybe any local parts store will have these. Thanks, Eric

[Normspeed]

Plug wires. I believe I got mine from Kanter in NJ. Nice quality. I went with the black ones that look varnished.

[claybill]

i think they recommend the solid core ones rather than graphite for old cars...someone out west in oregon or wash, (on this forum)..i think sells them for 30.+ a set

bill

[eric wissing]

Thanks, "Plug Wires" that seems right. I will get a set. Eric

[Normspeed]

Like Claybill mentioned, if you can get the type with real wire in the core I would go for those.

[greg g]

Tractor Supply Company has copper cored tractor wires for 6 cylinder tractors. You may need to trim them a bit for the application. On a personal preference note, I prefer the one with 90 degree elbows on the spark plug ends rather than those that stic straight up. Look for Oliver or International Harvester.

[Reg Evans]

This eBay seller has sever different styles listed right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-for-1938-1942-MoPar-6-Cyl_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34205QQihZ016QQitemZ260020920300

[Merle Coggins]

Like Greg said... I got mine at Farm & Fleet. They are Universal 6 cylinder tractor plug wires. One end had the 90's with boots for the plugs. The other ends you cut to length and fitted the distributor terminal ends. The nice thing about that is the fact that I could run them through the loops on the coil bracket, before cutting and fitting the other terminal, like the originals were. Wouldn't be able to do that with ready made ones. And, as I recall, the price was around $15-$20.

Merle

[Normspeed]

I like the 90 degree ones too. I think they just look more like they were made for the flathead 6. And the added bonus, what could be more fun than reaching across a running motor to tweak the throttle bellcrank and touching your wrist to the bare 90 degree terminal? Yikes!

[eric wissing]

I ordered a set from Kanter. Costs a bit more but somewhat convenient doing it by phone. I went with the straight because?? I don't know half on my car are straight and the other half were 90's. 50/50 chance. I assumed that the straights would didtance the wires from the head more. Probably not an issue. Thanks to all. Eric

[TodFitch]

Any good local auto supply store should have a "universal" set of plug wires that will work.

For myself, I bought a reel of cloth covered, copper core high tension wire many years ago. When I replace the plug wires I go to my local good auto supply and buy the end pieces and boots. Then I make up my own. You can crimp the ends on with a regular set of pliers (did that for years) or you can spring for the special tool that is designed for the job (did that last year).

But unless you are a real "period appearance" freak, you are best off with the universal plug wires that you trim to length. I don't live near a farm supply but it sounds like they have the same type of kit too. Should be just as good and is probably cheaper.

[Jim Saraceno]

Tod, just what is this special tool for crimping wire ends called and are they sold at most auto parts stores?

[TodFitch]

Tod, just what is this special tool for crimping wire ends called and are they sold at most auto parts stores?

I don't know that it had a specific name other than wire terminal crimper. As I recall it is not too different from some of the crimpers I have seen for making up cable TV (RG-6) ends. Basically just a crimper designed for large diameter wire.

I bought it at the same auto supply store that I buy the various loose bits and pieces to make up my wire ends. That store has been pretty good, older fellows who have the parts books (paper, not computer) but don't really use them much because they have it all memorized. They have, or can get on a couple hours notice, an amazing variety of mechanical parts for my 1933. And what they don't have and can't get they usually can give me a good lead on local specialty houses (brake, brass fittings, etc.) that might be of assistance.

I have a bunch of non-automotive work I need to get done tonight so it might not be until tomorrow but I will take a photo of the tool and post it.

[Jim Saraceno]

Thanks, Tod, I'd like to see that. Goodness knows I could always use another tool!

[Young Ed]

I've used one too. Has a special piece for stripping the outside and then a crimper.

[Normspeed]

Shel, those look real nice. For that price, that is a real deal. We don't have Tractor Supply in my area though. If we did I'd buy a set just for future needs.

OTE=shel_bizzy_48;23126]Got mine at tractor supply. Wire core. 90 degree (and not bare contact).

About $12.95

[kevinanderson]

you fix that over heating problem?

[eric wissing]

Kevin, I hope so. I took off the manifolds and had a plate welded in to block the exhaust from going up to the intake. It started right up today and it was pretty cool out. I have to get the right front wheel back on and see what happens. Eric

[Don Coatney]

I bought the cheap yellow copper core wires with the straight ends. They work well. If and when they fail I will most likely go black with 90 degree ends.

[Ed Griffin]

Awhile back I purchased a set of the Tractor Supply plug wires. The price is great at around 12 bucks and locally they were the only people who carried solid core wires that I could find. They look much the same as the uncovered 90 degree boot type. More of a dark grey instead of shiney black. Problem with them is they are much stiffer and the boots dont fit as tight as they should on the ditributor cap causing them to come out if you happen to be bumping them as your working in that area. I still like them but if you have this kind then you need to be aware that they will come out of the dist. cap easily because of the boot not being very tight or secure.

Cut them a little long so that the tube under the coil can be used to hold the bend of the wires down to keep them snug in the cap. Also make double sure that the contacts on both ends are touching the solid core wire with an ohm meter.