kevinanderson

Get your OD working?

Guys. If we are talking current out put thru the charging system, wouldnt corroded connections compromise circuit operations too?

Set of Phillips headers, 2 inch pipes cut and welded while laying on my back. Blown out glass paks I had laying in the shop. Nice and burbly thru the gears. WOT thru 1 & 2 smooth and hellacious. But OD at 70, Sweet stereo thru those rear open vent wings!

only fuse is on fire wall. Its held in place by a brass cap/fuse holder. Take it out and ram some still wool in there. Twist it around with a small pocket screw driver till its shiney in there. Next take each connection off and buff the eyelet. Attatching screw /washer and screw mounting pad. I used a small brass "toothbrush" from the hardware store. Do all the top side connections before you drag your a under the car. And give it a test drive. If no good clean the connections under neath. If nothing, then you can start pulling covers and worrying about the weight of your oil. It quit working suddenly and with no obvious grinding, right? My plymouth worked fine for thousands of miles.After a night of cruising, The next day nothing. I thought oh crap. That damn OD. But read my trusty OD manual and looked like connection gremlins. Same thing happened on a friends 55 ford...poor fuse connection. And theyre right. You never hear about the ones that work right.

Mine did the same thing. I went thru and cleaned all the connections. might be full of crap, but it worked.

When you mount the outside bezel as as the bit giude , the template wont warn you about the correct angle of the bezel/handle. Give the bezel a half turn and stick a dowel or something in the bezel and look at the angle of intrusion into the dash. My first drill job put my handle protruding partially thru the windsheild garnish. If I would have gave the the bezel a half a turn, it would have came thru the little blank area above the starter button.

Fusion paint flexed and cracked. I bought paint off ebay and it literally peeled off. I buffed off the sidewall letters and cleaned the hick out of the rubber. No good in my opinion

WOW! Did you get the answer you were looking for?

I know this thread is about ports walls Z, but I painted mine using Fusion spray paint for plastic. Seem to be holding up to sidewall flexing.

Sorry. The od is in my plymouth. Is the back of the fluid drive crank different than the manual 3spd?

I have a deflector on mine. I'd say it aint worth crap. My Dad had one on his '48 in high school. so we found one and put it on.

Thanks Guys. Kinda what I was thinking. Rock Auto carry these?

I've been wondering about this myself. Anyone good at Photoshop?

Okay guys. Rear mount question. By Nos or have old ones done by Steele. Any other sources? Yes I searched and wondered if anything new has cropped up. They are two pieced right? Tranny getting hard to shift. One mount is completely crapped out. Thanks Kevin

I've got 106k on my '48 Plymouth. Doubt it's been rebuilt. I'm the 3rd owner and 2nd owner didnt do anything to the block. 1st owner didnt use it much. Ther is some ring groove wear when I had the head off and milled. Uses less than a quart every 1000 miles or so. I drive it like it was meant to be. The new overdrive is alot easier on the revs. Starts really well, even with the 6volt system, even when it was pretty cold. Glad I never messed with an 8 volt set up. I burn(oops-use!) 30 Rotella.