Grounding question

[Jeff Balazs]

The wiring in the truck (52 B-3-C) I bought is a mess and incomplete. I want to put a battery, cables and a temporary starting circuit in it to get it running.

I can't find any evidence of how it is (or was) grounded. Where should the ground cable from a battery attach on these trucks? Are there other ground points as well?

Thanks for your help.

Jeff

[greg g]

I believe on the trucks where the battery box is located, the ground cable goes to a bolt through the frame. If one is not evident, you can go to one of the bellhousing bolts, or one of the starter attachment bolts. For power to the coil, just run a jumper from the bat neg (remember vehicle is positive ground) to the coil. a couple aligator clips will do for easy shut down, or if you wish splice in a toggle switch. Just for test running you do not need to worry about the generator the amp gauge or other stuff.

[pflaming]

I did exactly what greg suggested. I put in a toggle switch, I hate electricity. Use a #10 (heavy wire) to the coil.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Greg;

I will look a little closer for evidence of where the original ground attached. I did look but most of the old wiring that is still there is pretty nasty! It is almost more than my old eyes can take,,,,if you know what I mean. And I was thinking that it might have grounded directly to the engine block. I don't have a battery yet but when I buy this and the cables I want this to all work correctly when I get around to a new harness.

I am making progress. Got the emergency brake working.....although I am certain it will need to be relined before it gets much use. Pulled the generator, coil and distributor and got them cleaned up. They look fine. Next I will go at the carb. It has a Carter Ball and Ball. Linkage looks to be original and intact with only a return spring needed. I got the choke cable freed up, but the hand throttle cable needs to be fixed....no big deal there. Can you get the correct rebuild kits for these Carbs? Where would you source these? Are there any tips for these I should know about?

Thanks much, Jeff

[WolfmanBob]

Jeff,

I'm just getting started, but this site has been a huge help. As for the carb kits, www.carburetor-parts.com has a lot of good information, kits, and videos. Apparently the kits are also available at most local car parts places like Napa, etc.

[Young Ed]

On my 46 the ground cable goes to one of the transmission cover bolts. Yes carb kits are available from your local auto parts store.

[Merle Coggins]

Yea, what Ed said...

Battery ground (Positive) cable goes to the transmission. Mine is also attached to one of the cover bolts. Also, be sure you get at least 0 gauge cables for your battery. Off the shelf battery cables for modern vehicles are usually 4 or 6 gauge and are WAY too light for a 6 volt system. I made my cables out of 00 gauge because that's what I had avaialble at the tmie. No worries about amp load on those monsters.

Merle

[Young Ed]

OEM at least for the 40s and cars was 1 gauge. They weren't out on the shelf but napa did have premade 1 guage cables readily available.

[ggdad1951]

my ground goes to a drilled and tapped hole in the top of the bell housing. As far as I know nothing else went to that hole and so I used that. After all the ground issues I had when I first got my engine running I went for a solid ground. Now I just need to get the frame/cab grounded well w/o making it look non-stock.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks guys this is really helpful.

I know it is early days on this project but I have a very good feeling about it. This old truck seems to have excellent bones......and there are only a few missing. As I get familiar with it, it appears to be in remarkably decent shape mechanically and in particular body wise. I have not found a bit of cancer anywhere!

Hank came for a visit the other day and was quite encouraging as well. He confirmed what I had thought and that I did better than OK on this purchase.

He was extremely helpful and a genuinely nice guy.

I have a lot of decisions to make about how far I want (or need) to take things. One thing I do know is this will be a short distance daily driver and will be used to haul lumber and make deliveries occasionally. So "too nice to use" is not even an option.

I am thinking now that I will do an "oily rag" restoration under the hood if the engine turns out to be functional and just put serious money into the cooling system to begin with. Then the brakes are by far the most pressing mechanical issue. I am inclined to think that perhaps a disc conversion on the front, a full rebuild on the rear along with a new master cylinder and lines might make the most sense. after that some new shocks, tires and some elbow grease and she should be good to go.

Body wise I am in very good shape. It is all straight and there is maybe an ounce of bondo on the whole thing. I am not rubbing this in....believe me I know how lucky I got with this. When I went and looked at the truck it took me about a second to make up my mind that I wanted it. The previous owner had stripped the 95% plus of the old paint off so it is old primer with a little bit of surface rust here and there. The only original paint left on it is on the engine side of the firewall. There is literally maybe a weeks work prepping it for paint.

Again thanks for all of your help and I wish all of you a healthy and happy New Year.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

can't remember if you've posted pictures of the truck yet?

[Dave72dt]

Check under the old primer for rust. A lot of them will bleed moisture through and you won't want to put fresh paint on top of it. How about strong soap and water under the hood instead followed up with some Rustoleum semi gloss, some rubbing compound on the firewall applied by hand, and then waxed. It'll look good, is easy and economical, easy to touch up and keep clean and you won't keep getting that oil on your clothes every time you reach over the fenders.

[HanksB3B]

Jeff,

Had a great time with you and Sean!

Will write more but were're supposed to get some high winds starting later today lasting through tomorrow and

I need to bike ride to make room for about 5lbs of Honey Baked Ham and all the other Christmas Junk I won't

be able to resist...well there's always the resolution time of year approaching...Oh by the way I included the

Pastrami sandwich you treated me to for lunch in with the "Holiday Fare" (Thanks it was out of this world good!)

Hank

Edited December 22, 2011 by HanksB3B

[ggdad1951]

sure looks clean!

[Dave72dt]

What a great starting point! So fortunate to find 60 year old metal in that condition.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Guy's

I did post a few photos in the album section. I will post more when time permits.

It is going to be "cool" when it is all sorted out.

A buddy told me about some product by Jasco that makes short work of surface rust. He has used it to good effect on a few cars he has restored and says that it works great. Turns rust to a black powder which brushes right off?

Anybody tried it? I do plan on sanding the old primer off but he says metal once treated with this doesn't seem to grow new rust. I guess I would believe that when I see it.

Jeff