First suprise and question

[Jeff Balazs]

Hello all;

I ran my engine (# T342 I9455) and found that it is a 230 from 54 -56 so I have a few more cubes than I thought. I guess that is a good thing. The VIN puts the truck at 52

Now for a question,,,, Since my wiring is such a mess what is the easiest way to tell if the truck is still set up as a 6v or if it has had some mods made?

I was thinking of pulling the generator and cleaning it up to see the data plate.

Thanks, Jeff

[joenailer]

seems to me the coils have the voltage embossed on them. if theres no battery, see if in fact the generator is still there or if it has been replaced with a altenator

[Plymouthy Adams]

as you ran the car what voltage did you use...and if the generator was connected do a quick test with a voltmeter for output..and if the headlights are stillinplce one would have to give the PO credit to change these so would reflect last running condition of the vehicle...if converted to 12 a tip off may well be the dropping resitor inline to the coil...or if changed really early on maybe between the coil and the distributor...

you ned to get out there an check a few things just to be sure..the genertor tag should be red if still 6 volt..usually the 12 volt tags are green..starter is not a good indicator as these 6 volt units hold up quite well with 12 volt application

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi;

Meant to say that I checked on the engine # ;-)

This truck is no way near running....I am still trying to figure out what I have.

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

ah ha..ran the number and not the engine itself..so I see says the blind man..

[Dave72dt]

so I see says the blind ..

carpenter as he picked up his hammer and saw."

That's the way I've heard it.

[Jeff Balazs]

Tim;

Thanks. I got the tag cleaned off and it is red....so 6v. Well that is one question answered. Honestly the wiring is so nasty in this truck it is hard to make out much.

One further question. I've noticed that there is no provision for a key lock anywhere on outside of the drivers door.....would this have been integrated into the door handle ? the handle that is on it now does not have it but I am certain it has been replaced. Strangely (to me) the passenger door has a separate key lock below the handle that looks original.

Thanks, Jeff

[Young Ed]

Correct only pass side doors had keys. It was and in some places still is illegal to enter/exit into traffic so you were supposed to lock from the inside and scoot over to the pass side to get out. Funny cars have gone back to only having one outside lock for totally different reasons.

[greg g]

Many vehicles of that era had a key lock cylinder only on the pass side. Locking the drivers door is a function of moving the inside handle the opposite way that opens it. This was sold as a safety feature in the days when folks parallel parked on busy down town streets. But my guess it was the manufacturers looking to save a buck on each vehicle produced. Sell a million cars/trucks, save a million bucks.

I just completely rewired a 56 Studebaker truck. I used a swap meet harness that was labled for 57 coupe. fairly simple as the truck only has about 8 circuits. So there are some wires in the car harness that go unused in the truck, I just taped then off and tucked them away. There are several sources for reproduced wiring harnesses, Rhode Island wire, and Y & Z are a couple most usually mentioned. Also the ones the hot rod shops for t buckets and roadsters with 8 or 10 circuits can also be used in a pickup to good effect.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Guy's;

Wow this is great ....I already have answers. And they make perfect sense.

So what would you do first? I am thinking of trying to see if this engine will turn over by hand. I don't want to do any serious damage but it would be nice to know. Any thoughts on this? Is it wishful thinking ? I just don't want to waste a bunch of money on stuff only to find out (soon) that this particular engine is not worth rebuilding.

Thanks, Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Jeff,

Do you have a Goal, Budget and Time Line. If I know that, I can advise. If you want to remain discrete, then PM (Send a Personal Message to me) If you ask me to never tell anyone, I won't.

Hank

[Dave72dt]

You'll never know if it's wishfull or not until you try it. Pull the plugs out first. That will make it easier to turn if it will and if it doesn't, you can dump some penetrant down them, give it a few days and try again.

Turns by hand, check the fluids, try it with the starter. At that point you can do a compression test or go wild and try starting it.

[Jeff Balazs]

Well....... I have not got as far as a budget. Just trying to figure out what I have bought and what it is going to need. My goal is to make it into a daily driver to use in my business. So with that said ... I would like to keep it as original looking as possible...... but it doesn't have to be perfect. I don't think I would use it the way I would like to if it had a real ex[pensive paint job as an example. Mechanically It needs to be relatively reliable and of course roadworthy. I don't have a clue what it costs to have one of these engines gone though correctly......so maybe some general numbers there would be helpful.

Thanks, Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Well....... I have not got as far as a budget. Just trying to figure out what I have bought and what it is going to need. My goal is to make it into a daily driver to use in my business. So with that said ... I would like to keep it as original looking as possible...... but it doesn't have to be perfect. I don't think I would use it the way I would like to if it had a real ex[pensive paint job as an example. Mechanically It needs to be relatively reliable and of course roadworthy. I don't have a clue what it costs to have one of these engines gone though correctly......so maybe some general numbers there would be helpful.

Thanks, Jeff

I had my engine professionally rebuilt, decked the head, with new pistons, valves, valve springs, etc. Magneflux found 4 small cracks in the block. I ended up at about $3200 for that. But I know you can get it done, probably just as well maybe not as pretty, for cheaper.

Edited December 19, 2011 by ggdad1951

[Dave72dt]

No matter what part of the truck you are working on, labor is a big factor in costing it. Being honest about your mechanical skills will determine how much you can do and how much you hire done. Good news is these trucks are pretty simple and some one here can guide you through almost any aspect of it.

[HanksB3B]

Well....... I have not got as far as a budget. Just trying to figure out what I have bought and what it is going to need. My goal is to make it into a daily driver to use in my business. So with that said ... I would like to keep it as original looking as possible...... but it doesn't have to be perfect. I don't think I would use it the way I would like to if it had a real ex[pensive paint job as an example. Mechanically It needs to be relatively reliable and of course roadworthy. I don't have a clue what it costs to have one of these engines gone though correctly......so maybe some general numbers there would be helpful.

Thanks, Jeff

O.K. This is where I'd start: Get it running and registered.

1. Based on your description of the condition of the truck, I'd take the plugs out and begin by turning the truck over by hand. If you are lucky enough to find a hand-crank (yes our trucks could be started by hand) otherwise a wrench on the crank pulley will do.

2. If things turn smoothly change the oil and check the compression.

3. Looks like you are stock so you need a 6 volt battery and DON"T LET ANYONE TELL YOU OTHERWISE" our trucks are POSITIVE Ground.

4. Like any vehicle you'll have to assure you have spark, fuel, water and that your belt is in good condition.

If this sounds challenging, you need a good mechanic,

Hank