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Posted

The new cam bearings should be an accurate fit over the cam journals-NOT sloppy. They won't tighten up any looseness upon installation. You need the proper cam bearing installation tool/adapters to install them properly.

Bob

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Posted
The new cam bearings should be an accurate fit over the cam journals-NOT sloppy. They won't tighten up any looseness upon installation. You need the proper cam bearing installation tool/adapters to install them properly.

Bob

I agree. Get the correct bearings.

Posted

When I tried to install cam bearings myself (without the proper equipment), I found that it was easy to get them in cockeyed. They were not visibly off, but once I inserted the camshaft and tested its rotation and then removed it to look at the bearings, I could see that the journals were not making uniform contact. I had a machinist install them. I figured it was no time for heroics, which, in my case, usually means doing something stupid.

Posted
As usual, replies all over the map with no hint of consensus.

Then go ask a machinist, then you will get the correct answer, not a bunch of opinions......or speculations that you obviously are not enamored with.

Posted
...or speculations that you obviously are not enamored with.

I am a guy who often posts tongue in cheek but dislikes emoticons. Not always a good mix. My apologies for the false impression. :(

_ _ _ _ _

Just in from the workshop. I guess "sloppy rattle" was an exaggeration, but they did and still feel really loose. Having said that, careful measurement indicates they are probably within spec. The manual calls for cam bearing clearance of 0.002-0.004. I could get a 0.004 shim in reasonably easy but 0.005 was a very tight fit. Given that doing this loose was doubtless egging the bearing shells, we are probably OK.

Off to the machine shop this morning with block, cam and bearings. Thanks all for your continuing interest and comments.

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Posted
I am a guy who often posts tongue in cheek but dislikes emoticons. Not always a good mix. My apologies for the false impression. :(

_ _ _ _ _

Just in from the workshop. I guess "sloppy rattle" was an exaggeration, but they did and still feel really loose. Having said that, careful measurement indicates they are probably within spec. The manual calls for cam bearing clearance of 0.002-0.004. I could get a 0.004 shim in reasonably easy but 0.005 was a very tight fit. Given that doing this loose was doubtless egging the bearing shells, we are probably OK.

Off to the machine shop this morning with block, cam and bearings. Thanks all for your continuing interest and comments.

No, no, no ones mad, Same for me but in the end everyone here has good intensions to help, but asking a proffessional never hurts.........No harm no foul:p

Posted

If you or I were an engine machinist you would instantly know if the bearing fit/clearance was out of range installed or not.

The bearing ID installed will probably shrink a .001" or so too. I leave all that type of work to the machinist and when I get the engines back all machined and ready for reassembly I check all clearances with quality Starrett tools to be sure all is good to go. I have seen some engines with the cam bearings are slightly offset of the block oil holes to prevent too much oil to the cam journals.

Restrictor kits were available to help increase oil pressure by limiting oil to the cam bearings.

Posted

using the fuel pump rebuild kit from then and now (Antique auto cellar) has two benifits, one they are reliable and a great fit and They are made of a rubber that does not disentigrate because of today's gas. I had some trouble with leaving my cars unstarted over long periods of time. I removed a fuel pump and found that the diaphamn had turned to a black gel. I went back and sent 4 fuel pumps to Then and Now for rebuild. We must be very careful how we deal with the new gas and oil formulas now.

Posted

Joe, William, Rodney, thanks for your endorsements. I called Then and Now/Antique Auto Seller this morning and ordered a kit for my new pump, should be in the mail tomorrow. Cost was $59.50 plus postage — the double-action pump kits are a little more money.

Posted

My Neil Riddle R-7 Overdrive arrived yesterday from WA via UPS. Packaging was a little beat up but the contents appear intact. Neil told me he is not very knowledgeable on overdrives but would have a friend who is take a look at mine before shipping to see if everything "seems OK".

I would like to have a factory or other service manual for the R-7 unit. I found plenty of info on-site and eBay on the R-10 which will be helpful to some degree, but nothing for the R-7.

Can anyone here help with an R-7 manual, copy, link or ??

BTW, Neil told me in December he had two R-7 units available, including the one I bought. The other one may still be there if anyone's interested.

Along the same vein, I got a call last week from a Model T friend in Calgary who saw the want-ad I had in our local club newsletter looking for an overdrive. Turns out he has one destined for his '58 Chrysler and changed his mind. I'm going to look at it this weekend on my way through town just in case. Is this likely to be compatible with my L6 long-block, and whether or not, is it of interest to anyone here?

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Posted

I got an R-10 from Neil some years ago. It's probably not easy packing one of those things. The box was demolished, there was oil leaking out of it, and the UPS guy was not happy. Neil said it worked when it was taken out of a 52 Plymouth. I haven't tested it yet but it is in the car with all controls connected.

Posted

Chris, hope your machinist took as much care with your crank as this fellow seems to be applying to his task. Make sure all the drilling debris is cleaned out of these passages....although he soes seem a bit careless with his hand tools.

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Posted
I got an R-10 from Neil some years ago. It's probably not easy packing one of those things. The box was demolished, there was oil leaking out of it, and the UPS guy was not happy. Neil said it worked when it was taken out of a 52 Plymouth. I haven't tested it yet but it is in the car with all controls connected.

Or he just doesn't care...he told me that the plymouth radios were the same face plate as the dodge one for the D24...................sold to me :mad:

Posted

I wasn't saying that Neil cheated me in any way. I was just commenting on how heavy the R-10 is and the difficulty of shipping. Plus, the scene with the UPS guy was kind of humorous. I am a little nervous about whether the overdrive will actually work, since putting it in as is was a leap of faith.

Posted
Chris, hope your machinist took as much care with your crank as this fellow seems to be applying to his task...

I dunno about the crank but they sure seemed to take good care with my freshly-installed cam bearings — the whole assembly feels like a precision watch and that was $80 very well spent. Once again "Ask the Audience" got it right.

I didn't get it so right when I reported up-thread that my new transmission arrived without any apparent damage. Took a closer look yesterday and discovered a fresh break at the upper-right mounting ear — we only got half a bolt hole and the lost bit is MIA. I sent an e-mail to Neil Riddle about this but haven't heard back yet. There's little doubt that UPS would attribute this to packaging (no crate, no wooden platform) and not to careless handling. Crap!

The workshop will be locked up and lonely until Wednesday as my beloved and I travel to Canmore, AB for a neice's wedding on Monday. On the bright side, we get to meet PatS for lunch today as we travel through Calgary.

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Posted
Or he just doesn't care...he told me that the plymouth radios were the same face plate as the dodge one for the D24...................sold to me :mad:

It is my understanding that all the mopars used the same radios for 46-48. However there was a cheap and a fancy version plus atleast a few similar looking aftermarket units.

Posted
It is my understanding that all the mopars used the same radios for 46-48. However there was a cheap and a fancy version plus atleast a few similar looking aftermarket units.

Ed, not true.....Your plymouth is flat and my dodge has quite the curve to it....it looks sunk in and terrible. first picture is correct second is not.

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Guest P15-D24
Posted
Ed, not true.....Your plymouth is flat and my dodge has quite the curve to it....it looks sunk in and terrible. first picture is correct second is not.

Kit includes curved radio faceplate and push buttons. It's listed in the parts book.

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