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DCurrent

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Everything posted by DCurrent

  1. hello all, Its been a long while since I've posted. Now that its getting cold again, I'm going to attempt what I started 5 years ago. I've got to get my clutch rebuilt. Is everyone still preferring to use Tennessee clutch and joint to rebuild their clutch? Thanks
  2. So I seen someone found a early 40s project to take home yesterday. Wanted to get a picture but traffic was just to heavy. It looked like a business coupe, black, and solid car. They may still be on the road and I was just curious if they were a member of this group?
  3. Yes your shoes had shorter linings on them and if I remember correctly the shorter lined shoes go toward the front of brake while the longer linings are at the back of each brake drum. Not to confuse you but each drum has one short and long shoe. Someone else will chime in im sure.
  4. Hello gents, Its been a while. My life is somewhat starting to get back to normal. I'm slowly getting around to working on some of my toys that have taken a back seat lately and that means playing around with my 48 p15. I changed the oil and trans. Lube and while I was at it in the air I lubed all the grease zirks. So I've had this over the center spring for a few years now and finally got around to installing it. The clutch was rather hard to depress before even though it did have a helper spring. I think it was more for the reason to keep the throw out bearing from dragging. So I was stretching the spring at the same time of depressing the clutch I think. Anyway, I had to re-adjust the linkage between the clutch petal and the bellcrank and also the rod between the bellcrank and the clutch fork. It doesnt seem right to me. I read that the clutch petal should have about an inch of free play. Well after adjusting the petal it seems the clutch actually disengages about an inch and half after depressing the petal. Is this right? Before I reajusted everything it would disengage about half way to the floor. It all feels so differentbecause of the spring so I'm having a hard time figuring out where it should engage or disengage, how ever you put it. I did try to move the adjustment down some so the clutch would disengage a little farther away from completely up, but the clutch petal would just fall a bit from completely up. So it wouldn't even have the need for the stop. Well I knew that wasn't right so I returned it to the first position. The clutch definately dissengages but im not sure if it has enough room so that it can completely engage. I hope I haven't confused you all. How far down does your petal go before disengaging from the clutch? All help and opinions welcome. Thanks Darren Chafin
  5. Go to Harbor Freight and buy a welding blanket. Excellent for laying over the fenders to work on motor.
  6. Oh my... so sad to hear this. I met him once and he was a great gentleman. He helped me with my p15 time to time.and was very knowledgeable about these particular cars. My heart goes to the family during this time when freinds and family meet together for the holidays. Rest in peace Don. Darren Chafin Could someone send me his address please by email thanks. dchafin1122@gmail.com
  7. You could've went with 14 " wheels like the 48 plymouths did. I think thats right unless 46 and 47 are 16 and went to 15".
  8. I have a 48 convertible. We and the kids take it once a week or two out for ice cream or whatever and have a ball. Very relaxing and it'll do 55 comfortably. Even faster if i choose but no need really. I do have a od that i haven't got around to installing but lookimg forward to it. At any rate if you like the style you wont regret buying one.
  9. An easy way to tell if it is a true convertible will be to observe the dash. If the dash is welded in it is likely a real convertible, but as stated before other areas could be looked at to tell the tale. But more pictures would be needed.
  10. Thanks gents for the replies. As of now i still habe the standard 3 speed but i bought a overdrive several years ago and i haven't installed it yet. Sounds as if i should do that to enjoy it more. I hate the fact that i can only do 55 60 comfortably on any highway to get somewhere.
  11. How have you been Don? Its been like 3 years or maybe 4. The wife and i have had a lot of bad luck with family the last 2 years. We both lost our dads and other family too. I haven't messed with the convertible for a while really. Taken it out every month or so just to keep it operable. We have some hard decisions to make and was wondering how the Plymouth would react to hill climbing frequently. If anyone would know, you would.
  12. Hello gents, Its been a long while since I've posted. I drive my 48 plymouth with stock drivetrain on flat ground all the time and I'm looking to hear from those who have like cars that have driven them in the mountains often. How do you feel about their ability to do so? Is it ok to just drive these old Plymouths in the mountains often or done it once and wouldn't want to do it again type deal? Does the inline 6 have enough power to get up the hills good without shifting to first all the time? Thanks
  13. You can sometimes rent one at autozone, car quest, for just a deposit.
  14. What a shame. I haven't visited in a while and I'm located fairly close to Columbus. Ugh.
  15. My press is a self standing unit for I think 12 ton or something like that. I centered the pin within just a few thousandths. Closer than the factory or the last person did.
  16. Well I got the boots on the drive shaft this weekend. I don't know how others turned the boot inside out, but I didn't have any luck. I kinda wonder if the others might have had newer boots that weren't as thick of rubber as the older reproduction boots. The reproduction boots are very thick compared to the newer accordion type. I didn't have a issue getting the boot over the pin, but getting it through the can that encases the joint was a problem. There was just no way that I could see it happening. So I went to harbor freight and bought a press. I have needed one many different times and this just pushed me to buy one. So I pressed the pins out and installed the boots, the cans, and then the pins. It was helpful to have two buddies. One to hold the end of the shaft while another pulled the press lever down leaving me to just make sure the pin started straight and was at the correct length. All is well now. I got it back in the car last night. Even had time to take it for a little spin to see if the job was right.
  17. I ordered the boots from Andy's. I hope to get them today. Asked napa about cv grease and they didn't have a clue.couldn't believe it. Went to car quest and they had it in small bags.I bought four. Figure two bags per boot.
  18. Yep this is what I read and I believe it will work. worth a try anyway. I had no luck at NAPA. I ended up ordering two boots from andy's. I also read where the grease inside these boots and within the rollers is a special blend. Again Napa didn't know what I was talking about. Does anyone have a recommended grease to pack these with? I assume it should be more on the liquid side so that it works into the rollers and it doesn't just fly out.
  19. I had seen where some have lubed the inside and outside up and managed to slip it over.but I was wondering if the boot could be had from a Napa store. They tried to match them up with out a part number but was unsuccessful.
  20. I have looked in the old topics but no one has said where they got their drive shaft boot from. Does anyone have a part number?
  21. I hope that one day my wife and I can take road trips like this like they did 60 years ago. Looks like it was a good time.
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