cleaning up the supports

[ggdad1951]

cleaned up my from clip supports yesterday, the "X" ones. Quite a bit of cancer hiding behind the welded parts, what have you guys done to clean that to arrest the rust/strengthen the part?

[grey beard]

Godad,

You takling cowl clip supports where the two rivets rust out? I cut outr all the fender rust, migged in new metal, and weldded in place carriage bolts after I polished the writing off the heads. I also welded new 3/8-inch bolts facing down on the fender brackdts, so that when I reinstalled the nose, they just dropped into the cowl brackets and I was abled to redinstall the locks and bolts from the bottom side. Fenders still look original and it'll never rust through in my lifetime.

I also use rattle-can becd liner for my undercoating on all this stuff after I prime it with epoxy primer - it'll outlast me.

And, by the bye, the paint you see in this photo was done with a four-inch foam rollerr. Ask me why . . . . . .

Good Luck

[MBF]

For the front cowl supports I found a pair of a slightly different design from a 52 Dodge. They were in much better shape than what was on the truck. I cleaned 'em up on a wire wheel, primed and painted and then used a spray on undercoating before I installed them. For the fender rivet repair, I did the same as GB. Mike

[ggdad1951]

I *think* my riveted brackets are ok, ill find out after the blasting I guess. The undercoating protected it pretty good I think. But the big X ish shaped braces have some pretty bad cancer. Anyone ever tried elecrtolysis to reduce the rust out?

[Dave72dt]

Electrolysis will remove the rust but does nothing to strengthen the metal. What's gone is gone. Replacement with original gauge or heavier is the only way to strengthen or you can preserve what's left with proper prep and paint/powdercoat.

[50farmtruck]

O-K Dave, I'll bite. Why? Off the topic of this thread, but I gotta know. From that picture I don't see the texture that's typical from a roller.

Bryan

[grey beard]

Wellll , it's a long story. Do a search of roller paint and you can read all about it. There are no telltale marks from the roller, just a little orangepeel here and there, and a little dust that always settles in fresh paint before it cures. Painted this one in my garage - underneath first wife's bedroom - no spraying or airborne paint and no oddor. AND you can do a panel at a time - unlike spraying enamel where you shoot the whole job at one time -- easier for fat old diabetic men, dontcha'knoo?

[ggdad1951]

Electrolysis will remove the rust but does nothing to strengthen the metal. What's gone is gone. Replacement with original gauge or heavier is the only way to strengthen or you can preserve what's left with proper prep and paint/powdercoat.

yah, I know that about electrolysis, but has anyone done it to get rid of all teh cancer so it doesn't spread from those hidden spots?

[Merle Coggins]

What "X" brackets are you talking about? These?

[MBF]

I think if you clean 'em up good, prime paint, and then use an automotive seam sealer where two pieces contact each other your'd be goo do go. The only other alternative would be to cut the outside end off (the flat plate) and fabricate the inner end. I can take pictures of the old two different versions of these brakcets.

By the way-I've seen GB's truck, and you cannot tell its had a roller paint job. There's also a guy that did a Road Runner or Charger the same way-unbelievable. Mike

[ggdad1951]

What "X" brackets are you talking about? These?

yep, them are it, 'cept there aren't the "S" bends in the wider piece, mine are basically flat with the rib re-enforcement. I've been reading about using vinegar to reduce the rust as well, Any thoughts on that?

Unless someone has a pair for my '51 that are in good shape for a decent price....

[Young Ed]

Mark you can use the electrolosis on those easily or a bath of diluted molasses works too. Go to Merle's favorite store(fleet farm) and buy the molasses for horse feed. Might want to call first as not all of them stock it.

[ggdad1951]

Mark you can use the electrolosis on those easily or a bath of diluted molasses works too. Go to Merle's favorite store(fleet farm) and buy the molasses for horse feed. Might want to call first as not all of them stock it.

and what ratio of horse feed to water would one use?

[Young Ed]

Google shows a variety of mixes. I think when we did it we used about 3:1 three parts water 1 part molasses.

[Dave72dt]

From what I've read, it's 10 parts water to 1 molasses, it's slow, like in days and it smells because it ferments. Means it may draw flies and bees and an unwanted scent around the buildings. Vinegar works and is cheap. Mostly it's the phosphoric acid in them that does the work.

[Dave72dt]

Another product on the market, water based, synthetic called "MetalRescue". Haven't tried it but it's getting some good revues.

www.metalrescue.com

[ggdad1951]

after doing more of this research and your comments, I wonder if the electrolysis might not be easier and faster? Anyone run that? Or the MetalRescue stuff?

Edited June 27, 2011 by ggdad1951

[TodFitch]

after doing more of this research and your comments, I wonder if the electrolysis might not be easier and faster? Anyone run that? Or the MetalRescue stuff?

As long as you have a container big enough and can place the sacrificial electrodes around the part without actually touching it, then I think it is the way to go. I've done this on a number of parts that could fit in a 3 gallon plastic bucket I happened to have sitting around and was very impressed. It is fast, doesn't seem to harm the good metal, non-toxic, etc. For me the hard part was finding some washing soda to make the electrolytic solution, seems the grocery stores around here like to sell fancier products than that.

[Jerry Roberts]

As long as you have a container big enough and can place the sacrificial electrodes around the part without actually touching it, then I think it is the way to go. I've done this on a number of parts that could fit in a 3 gallon plastic bucket I happened to have sitting around and was very impressed. It is fast, doesn't seem to harm the good metal, non-toxic, etc. For me the hard part was finding some washing soda to make the electrolytic solution, seems the grocery stores around here like to sell fancier products than that.

I use baking soda . That is easy to find and works well .

[48Dodger]

yep, them are it, 'cept there aren't the "S" bends in the wider piece, mine are basically flat with the rib re-enforcement. I've been reading about using vinegar to reduce the rust as well, Any thoughts on that?

Unless someone has a pair for my '51 that are in good shape for a decent price....

Recent thread on rust removal.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=250792#post250792

48D

[george c]

after doing more of this research and your comments, I wonder if the electrolysis might not be easier and faster? Anyone run that? Or the MetalRescue stuff?

I use electrolysis extensively. I use one of those storage containers they sell at the box stores for a few bucks, don't know how many quarts but 15 gallons of water fits in with plenty of room for your rusty stuff. I use washing soda I got online because no one here carries it. For 15 gallons it takes one cup of washing soda, it's stronger than baking soda. I use about six pieces of rebar that is wired together with electric fence wire (I had a roll). Apiece of rebar across the length of the container to hang your rust from. Hook the ground of a small battery charger to the hanger and the positive to the rods around the edge. The amount of time it takes depends on the amount of rust.

I just did my cab mounts and I left them in about 6 hours, they were nasty, once removed be sure to clean right away, they will start to surface rust fairly quickly. The positive thing about using electrolysis is it doesn't remove any good material just the rust, unlike vinegar or other acids.

George

[Young Ed]

Someone mentioned TSP in another thread which is available at hardware stores. At least around here. I'm going to try that out as the soda piece of electrolosis.

[ggdad1951]

supports happily bubbling away in the washing soda bath as I sit at work....all outside of course, no Hindenburgs needed in my garage!

[ggdad1951]

"Rust free/reduced" door bottoms!