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mrwrstory

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Got lights,....at least on the rear.

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Cleaned up the wiring and moved the gauges inside. Pretty pleased with myself and keep reminding my wife

that I have no more than about $25.00 invested in the swapmeet instrumentation so far.

Confirmed that the 64 Chev gas gauge works and that will be installed before the weekend.

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I'm planning to drive it as a "high boy" :P to coffee Sat. morning. I'm expecting to see two other P-15s there.

And yes, I will get pics.

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Bill what are your plans for permanent gauges? Reusing the stockers? Putting something else in their place?

Dunno yet. Time "may" tell. The stock oil, temp and amp are functional. Gas gauge was non-functional and since then I have replaced the tank and sending unit. If I had gobs of money I'd have the amp gauge converted to volts and the gas gauge coverted to receive a Chevy signal. I don't really like the idea of aftermarket gauges stuffed into the stock neighborhood, especially because it's crowded.

I'm hoping to sell the car and if that person comes along before I figger out the gauge solution, he gets it as is.

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Here's a little relief from the build documentry. First outing for Sat. coffee w/ several other Mopar types.

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For those who are dedicated resto types, please don't take offense. For those who would like to see more of the same check http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/Others%20Mayflowers/?albumview=slideshow

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Hello. I have been following your very cool build. I am at the point where I need a MC set up in my '50 and I really like yours. I know you used a Corvette MC, but what did you use for those brass plugs and connections? Are they taking the place of a plastic reservoir?

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I believe this M/C normally had a plastic reservoir that plugged into the M/C body and sealed with rubber grommets. The outfit I bought the setup from is ABS in Orange, CA. Not sure if the plugs are proprietry. Chk http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincatalog_frameset040.html

see page #120. I got mine, which is a 1" bore, before they had a catalog so I don't see the exact same product. I believe there are other vendors of aftermarket brake components who have similar products.

The reason I went for the remote fill is because I didn't want to have a hatch in the floor. Down side is w/the reservoir some 24" above the M/C, the pressure of that two foot head makes sealing a challenge.

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Had to modify the passenger side inner fender panel to clear the exhaust manifold and alternator. Remember

the engine is relocated toward the passenger side. Driver side only req'd two "mouse holes" to clear the engine

mount and the brake flex line anchor. Primed all this sheet metal today in prep for fenders tomorrow.

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Good Guys Del Mar is this weekend and I'm rushin to get the fenders on. Also had to jury-rig toggle switches for trans shifting.

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Put in a long day to get the Mayflower ready for Good Guys Del Mar. Paintin w/one hand and boltin w/the other.

Does everyone, but me, know that there are 6000 bolts to hang the front sheet metal.

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The reward was the drive South,...about 60 miles. Spent a lot of the trip sniffin and listenin for burning stuff and/or

noises that could signal emminent disaster(s). Whadda hoot to have it all work as planned,....65mph @ 2200/2300 RPM

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I'm following a build thread on the hamb and I think I spotted you're car cruising Del Mar. Here's the link and picture. QUOTE]

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That's zit! About the same spot. Wished the Aussies had given a yell. It's the payoff for stick-to-itizness.

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One perk of the Good Guys Show is the free weighin hosted by Ridetech Technologies. Just drive up and they give

you a printout documenting the weight in each wheel in pounds and %, a front vs back, and a total.

My Mayflower as you see it was 1580# front, 49.7% and 1597# rear, 50.3%.

Lighter and better balanced than I would have guessed.

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So,....except for postin pics and cleanin up the disaster in the garage, I'm taking the day off,.....'cept maybe

I'll dig the remaining sheetmetal and trim outta the rafters and organize my plan of attack for the coming week.

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I need a little help. Please check the pic. These came from baggies I marked as "front sheetmetal". Figgered

I'd be able to reinstall them using my superb "spatial relationships" skills. :( WRONG! I'm stumped. The single bracket

shown is one of two. I think they are right and lefts. I managed to install one attaching the bottom lip of the splash

panel to the bottom of the fender at the bottom of the wheel arch opening. It wasn't very graceful and the opposite side

was impossible because both fender and splash panel pieces were slightly bent. I'm wondering if I am in the right place.

Re the pair shown, I can't imagine where they go. Can someone help me out on both? Pictures, if I can impose, would be super.

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spend most of the day searching for the hood hinges. Found several items I forgot I had.

Finally hauled the hood down from the rafters. Layer of dust gives an idea how long this gig has been "under construction"

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Came up with the original steering box. If anyone would like it, they can have it for the price of shipping.

It was very servicable when removed almost 10 years ago. First response gets it! Img_6553.jpg

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and finally, has anyone tried this?

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cost me 60 cents, 30 per side. What I can't figure is that at .055" per penny, the 30 inserts per side should have

yielded an increase in spring length of 1.65". I only got about 1.12". I needed at least 1.40. An interesting concept

but, in this case didn't get me enough increase in length. A real pain and no reward.

Resorted to using the stirrup I'd made earlier to remove the springs.

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Bill..if you look close you will see the L brackets on my coupe..look close to the passenger side and see how it sits in place...attaches at the forward frame mount post as seen just below the drop light

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33180&d=1328571713

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