engine rebuild kits???

[807kirby]

Has anyone bought an engine rebuild kit from Kanter or any where else? What parts are missing from the kits?? or gaskets?? I have to rebuild my 218 in the 1950 I purchased and was just looking for advise on what to buy for rebuilding! Is it better to go with individual peices? Thanks in advance!!

[aero3113]

I am in the middle of a rebuild and I purchased my gasket kit from www.rockauto.com and all other parts from www.vintagepowerwagons.com

here is the link to my rebuild

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=23856

Edited December 6, 2010 by aero3113

[Jim Saraceno]

I ended up buying all my parts through my machinist. All the parts looked brand new and they were cheaper than any other source l looked into (including Kanter).

[Don Coatney]

If you buy a "kit" from an antique car parts vendor how do you know what size parts you need? It is much better to buy the parts to fit the engine after the machine shop has completed the boring of the block and the turning of the crankshaft than to have the machine shop attempt to bore the block and turn the crankshaft to fit the parts you have already bought. And as already mentioned the machine shop can most likely supply you with the parts for less money than an antique car vendor will charge.

[807kirby]

my plan is to tear down and get machine work done then order kit, or individual parts as required! Just wondering if anyone has used the kits and how they are?? for quality and small things that I will still need to get later! Thanks Bruce

[greg g]

I would recommend you also price the things you need at Egge and Terell Machine in texas, both are listed in the reference area of this site. I saved quite a bit of money shopping the parts to different suppliers.

[1941Rick]

Vintage power wagons have los of parts for 218 and 230 engines.....reasonable pricing.

If you are in Western Canada Lordco is great. Our macine shop was way out on his prices......

[Dodgeb4ya]

I would have to say--Don't use Chine-eese parts. I think some engine failures are showing up because of these poor quality parts in the no name white boxes!!!!

Bob

[55 Fargo]

Vintage power wagons have los of parts for 218 and 230 engines.....reasonable pricing.

If you are in Western Canada Lordco is great. Our macine shop was way out on his prices......

Are you saying Lordco for the "machine work", and VPW for parts.

Now who has 218 and 228 Canadian 25 inch flathead parts.

I figure 251 parts should be not too difficult to find, but what about the pistons and rings for a Canadian 218, who would sell those parts....

[aero3113]

Are you saying Lordco for the "machine work", and VPW for parts.

Now who has 218 and 228 Canadian 25 inch flathead parts.

I figure 251 parts should be not too difficult to find, but what about the pistons and rings for a Canadian 218, who would sell those parts....

Fred,

Are you sure the pistons and rings are different for a Canadian 218?

[55 Fargo]

Fred,

Are you sure the pistons and rings are different for a Canadian 218?

Hi Keith, the specs for Canadian Chrysler flat head 6s,

First the bore/stroke dimensions for the engines :

218.0-cid - 3.375" x 4.0625"

228.1-cid - 3.375" x 4.25"

250.6-cid - 4.4375" x 4.50"

So the 218 and 228s employed a smaller piston, and rings, the cranks and/or rods, must be different too... the 218, that I have in my 47, is a shorter stroke, so maybe higher rpms could be handled

[aero3113]

Do you think non Canadian pistons and rings will work if the cylinders are bored to the right size?

[55 Fargo]

Do you think non Canadian pistons and rings will work if the cylinders are bored to the right size?

Probably, I would just go to a 251 piston, in that case, at standard size and rings. Just goes to show you, the 218 and 228, have plenty of boring out room, as they are the identical blocks to the 251.

I am pretty sure the 218 and 228 engine parts are still available...

[Young Ed]

Fred we've got an NOS set around somewhere. I think they are standard size for a 237. That help you any?

[807kirby]

It is a Canadian 25" block in my car! So the pistons maybe different???

[Robert Horne]

I would have to say--Don't use Chine-eese parts. I think some engine failures are showing up because of these poor quality parts in the no name white boxes!!!!

Bob

I recently bought some Chinese parts. The parts were stamped, "USA".

At the low price I paid for them I think they were not made in the USA,

shipped to China and then shipped back to the USA. Most parts I have

bought at the Auto Parts stores here, came from Mexico....

[807kirby]

so I guess no one has used these kits??? Was just a question!! Thanks for the replies!!

[Tony WestOZ]

It is much better to buy the parts to fit the engine after the machine shop has completed the boring of the block and the turning of the crankshaft than to have the machine shop attempt to bore the block and turn the crankshaft to fit the parts you have already bought.

Sorry Don, cannot agree with you here.

Even though the new stuff with the CNC machining run extremly tight tolerances, I always get the bores done to suit the pistons I have in hand.

In times gone by I`ve have seen + 001" to - 002" variation in quoted piston sizes.

If I had pre machined the blocks things could have been a bit tight or extremely loose.

[Don Coatney]

Sorry Don, cannot agree with you here.

Even though the new stuff with the CNC machining run extremly tight tolerances, I always get the bores done to suit the pistons I have in hand.

In times gone by I`ve have seen + 001" to - 002" variation in quoted piston sizes.

If I had pre machined the blocks things could have been a bit tight or extremely loose.

So if you buy 20 over pistons and the block needs to go 30 over what do you do? Same with the crankshaft journels?

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you are providing the parts, it is good to know first by either measuring the appreciable wear or scoring in the cylinder and get the machine shop to verify the amount it will need be punched..THEN have the items on hand as the last part of the finish will be "honed" to match the piston/bore...that is why it is also advisable to have the machine shop that is grinding your crank to supply the bearings...a slight mis-calc on their part could give you a set of bearings that would already be near the max limit of tolerance..

and do not assume that the part you are buying is as factory...I have seen reconditioned rods way off in tolerance straight out of the box..

[Dodgeb4ya]

Good engine machinists bore all the cyinders and hone each cylinder to each piston as the pistons do vary a small amount in size. And to really do a good job they will bolt a 1/2" torque plate fitted to the block (Deck Surface)and torque it to the head spec then hone the cylinders!

Bob

[martybose]

Good engine machinists bore all the cyinders and hone each cylinder to each piston as the pistons do vary a small amount in size. And to really do a good job they will bolt a 1/2" torque plate fitted to the block (Deck Surface)and torque it to the head spec then hone the cylinders!

Bob

Absolutely correct! You should also add a used headgasket so the torque plate is stressing the block the same way a head would.

I'll have to ask my machinist if he took the 230 torqueplate with him when he retired; I'll bet he did!

Marty

[807kirby]

Just figured out the kits will be no use as this is a Canadian motor I will be building!! Hoping rings are not to hard to get and don't need oversized pistons!!! found the head gasket set number tonite online at least!! WOW this could be a pain!!