mystery fiitting and bad pictures

[ggdad1951]

I'm now SLOWLY (in this wonderful cold weather) working on getting the oil system back on the engine block. I took pictures, but of course things are out of frame/too dark/whatnot that I have 2 questions: What do the two arrows point to in the linked picture below? The one was broken off when we tore it down so I'm TOTALLY at a loss for it's function. Thanks guys!

[Young Ed]

That would be the supply and return to the oil filter. Typically back further on the oil supply but they work there too.

[JBNeal]

judging from the proximity to the freeze plug, I reckon the top arrow is pointing to the old coolant drain plug...feel free to replace that with a hex head pipe plug.

the bottom arrow is pointing to an oil pressure supply line...I don't reckon I've seen one located in that area, usually they are closer to the rear of the block. If ya look on the left side of the pic, above the generator mounting bracket bolts, there's a hex head pipe plug; there should be two more out of frame on the right. These four plugs tap into the oil pressure galley that supplies the engine block.

[moparmonkey]

judging from the proximity to the freeze plug, I reckon the top arrow is pointing to the old coolant drain plug...

The top arrow definitely looks like the coolant drain plug, that's exactly where mine is on my '53.

The bottom one looks to be an oil line as mentioned, although I don't have one there either.

[greg g]

the oil gallery is cast into the length of the block along the drivers side of the engine. The line could also be the feed for the oilpressure gauge, typically two are sued ont to feed the filter and one for the gauge. It doesn't matter which pick up is used but typically the rear most is the gauge and the next one toward the front for the filter.

The other as mentioned is the coolant drain. some were just pipe plugs and some like yours had a petcock mounted. Probably a good idea to pull it and root around in there with a wire to get the crud out and allow the block to drain.

[lugnut123]

Since your working in that area of the engine nock out the old freeze plugs and replace them. Try to flush out the crud ( rust and sediment) that has settled between the cylinders in the water jacket. Chances are the freeze plugs are about rusted and close to pinholed anyway. good luck

[ggdad1951]

thanks guys!

Young Ed: the oil filter fittings are out of frame to the right, I've got my oil filter all reset up.

lugnut: actually, this pic is preteardown, block and such is all nice and shiny clean and repainted.

everyone else: a hex plug for the old drain spot: check! I'd bet the other is the pressure gauge line which was my first thought, thanks for the confirmation!

[Young Ed]

thanks guys!

Young Ed: the oil filter fittings are out of frame to the right, I've got my oil filter all reset up.

QUOTE]

Thats where I'd expect them to be. But with that quick turn to the back I thought maybe thats where it was headed. FYI you can plug that one and use the one at the back that closer. Thats typically the one thats used for oil gauge.

Here are the lines in my pickup. You can just see the oil line coming out from under the starter.

[Dave72dt]

You can still get that type of block drain, some even come with a tube extension that you can slip a hose onto, which I prefer to use when for some reason I need to drain the coolant. It's less messy than the pipe plug.

[JBNeal]

There is a drawback to using the pipe extension for the coolant drain on non-stationary engines. The threads on the pipe can crack at the block from the combination of vibration and the torque from the weight of the drain assembly. This can lead to coolant loss and possibly the extension breaking off.

What I've done in the past is use some duct tape, a used quart oil jug, a length of old garden hose, and a bucket to fabricate an engine coolant recovery system. Clean off the area below the drain and tape a funnel-ized jug to the block, with the hose fitted to the funnel leading to the bucket. Rather then coolant going everywhere, I can focus (most of) it into the bucket. It doesn't get all of it, but it vastly reduces the mess.

[Dave72dt]

Might have been misleading, what I wrote. The extension is about an inch long and is there only to direct fluid away from the block or to slip a removable hose onto for draining purposes only. Nothing permanent.

[Young Ed]

Here are the two types. FYI both available at napa.

[ggdad1951]

thanks Ed, think i'll hit up NAPA tonight....since I'm trying to do the "original" route and all.

Thing I noticed on your picture of your oil filter housing, My outlet tube was plumbed to the "vetical" (towards you in the pic) fitting in your picture and the inlet from the "90° fitting" (away from you in the pic). Does that make a differenece? Is there a difference?

[Young Ed]

Yes one is for sure the supply and one the return. Keep in mind thats a car engine and car style filter so the lines could be different.

[ggdad1951]

Yes one is for sure the supply and one the return. Keep in mind thats a car engine and car style filter so the lines could be different.

my outlet is on the top of the housing and the inlet on the bottom....

[Dave72dt]

The smaller fitting in Ed's picture is the one most likely like the one on your engine, not saying that's even original when your engine was first installed. The larger one is the one I prefer. Slip a hose on to drain, remove when finished.

[ggdad1951]

The smaller fitting in Ed's picture is the one most likely like the one on your engine, not saying that's even original when your engine was first installed. The larger one is the one I prefer. Slip a hose on to drain, remove when finished.

exactally what I was thinking...might not be as original, but a heck of a lot cleaner and a lot more original than a plug!

now anymore thoughts on how mine was plumbed? Tonight I'll get a picture posted up of how it was preteardown.

[Dave72dt]

Your filter could very easily have been a dealer installed unit and given how poor a lot of install directions are in our current time, I can only imagine how install directions might have looked back then.

[ggdad1951]

just got done reading the tech tips on this...sounds like the car filter housing was made differently than the truck. My top fitting on the housing is distictly stamped "OUTLET", while the tech tips say that would be INLET. If this is the case then I think the truck is plumbed differently?

"The top fitting is the inlet coming from the engine oil gallery. The bottom is the outlet going to a fitting directly above the oil pressure relief valve. Many filters have connectors which are stamped "Inlet" and "Outlet" The inlet is plumbed to the oil galley on the side of the block."

[Merle Coggins]

My filter housing is also clearly stampped "OUT" at the upper port and so I have plumbed it accordingly.

Edited November 23, 2010 by Merle Coggins

[ggdad1951]

heh, no I don't have to post a pic...Merle's looks JUST like mine!

[greg g]

Looks like the tubing from the forward fitting goes tot he oil pressure gauge also.

[Don Coatney]

My filter housing is also clearly stampped "OUT" at the upper port and so I have plumbed it accordingly.

Merle;

I am curious why the cappilary tube from your engine heat sensing bulb swings towards the front of your truck and not towards the gage? On my P-15 I head right to the firewall.

[Merle Coggins]

If you look closer, Don, you'll notice that there is no fire wall for the capillary tube to pass through. This pic was taken during the build process before the cab was put back on. I had a temporary control board attached to the steering column with a toggle (ignition) switch, choke cable, voltage regulator, and gauges for oil pressure and temp. The capillary tube you see actually goes forward, loops around the dip stick tube, then is tied up along the steering column with the rest of the temporary wiring to the control board.

I had to do that so that I could drive it in and out of the shop that first winter I worked on it. I didn't have a permanent work space for it then. I would drive it in on a Friday evening, work on it over the weekend and drive it back outside until the next available weekend.

[Don Coatney]

If you look closer Don, I had a temporary control board attached to the steering column with a toggle (ignition) switch, choke cable, voltage regulator, and gauges for oil pressure and temp.

As the blind man says "I see". I did the same with my engine prior to install in my car.