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i'm making a hot rod?o/t on?


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Posted

Any "safety" related upgrade is not hot rodding in my book. Yes the use of no-OEM parts and such can technically be called hot rodding but I think it's the overall build and feel of the car that ultimately designates if it's a hot rod or not.

Posted

Is he spending his money or yours??? If it's your's, he should do the work without further resistance to your choices or reccomend some one who will. Even clubs as stogy as the POC no longer disqualify or demerit cars with reasonable safety improvements.

Hot rodders usualy remove thing the deem unnecessary, and swap in parts to make the car perform at a higher level.

Posted

In the POC you would get points taken off for disks. There is no disqualification in the POC. Seats belts don't get deducted. Radials do and I think turn signals do too. Safety glass(for the really old cars that came with plate glass) and fire extinguisher are required.

Posted

Its your car and you aren't obligated to please anyone. Sounds like you are building a driver not a "show car". I don't see anything wrong with making it more roadable.

Posted

I can still certainly see how an engine swap brake swap and 12v conversion could be considered a hotrod. As for the local guy insulting customers is probably not a good business tactic.

Posted

Have you thought about swapping in a bigger flathead six, 251. 265? I know lots of guys did this back in the day since the flathead 8 was a fuel hog, and you really didn't get much more performance out of it. Them you'd still be "period" correct and could probably still use 90% of your current engine bay items.

Just a thought.;)

Posted

Learn something new everyday; i didn't know Mopar made a straight 8. Man, with todays faster cars and trucks and highways with multiple lanes, good brakes are a must. I don't see a thing wrong with making your ride safe so you can enjoy it. The way some drivers are, you better be able to stop in a hurry.

Posted
just got off the phone with a guy about seeing what it would take to rebuild

the straight 8 in my '33 Chrysler..6-7k....

i told him that i wanted to use volvo disk brakes..on it and he told me i'm making a "hot rod" out of it....i know that is a modification..but to call the car

"hot rodded" is confusing to me..because hot rodders what to go faster...i don't care about going faster...i just what to stop quicker...:confused:

Here is a serious question. "Why do you need disc brakes?"

If the drum brakes on your car are in good shape it will stop the car as good as the disc brakes will. The only real performance advantage to disc brakes is they cool down easier and fade isn't as as much of a problem. This is an advantage if you do a lot of driving in hilly country and/or pull a trailer,but not so much if you are just driving the car as transportation.

Of course,if you have to buy new drums because yours are worn too thin,I suspect it may be cheaper now to convert to disc brakes than it is to buy new drums.

BTW,I plan on using drum brakes from a 56 DeSoto on the front of my 33 Plymouth coupe,and it's getting a 6-carb 330 DeSoto hemi and push-button 727. I have no problem with disc brakes and would probably use them if I didn't have so many drum brakes. I also have a couple sets of finned aluminum Buick brake drums,brake drums from a 49-51 Lincoln,and some from 50's Ford pu's. I am just using the DeSoto brake drums because I already have them and I want to keep the car all pre-1965 Mopar.

Posted

I'm sure you could pick up a good running, or even rebuilt flathead six for cheap. Heck I bought a rebuilt flathead six, complete runner with complete 3 speed manual still hooked to it with all new clutch and hardware...$650!! Had to drive 4 1/2 hours one way to get it but made for a great day.;)

Posted

Oh I thought your motor was running and then died and was in need of a rebuild. Your right it could surprise you. Make sure you take your time and lube the cylinders and rotate the motor by hand slowly before you ever try to fire it. Sure there are other "Firing a long quite flathead for the first time" protocol that I'm not aware of....;)

Posted

Great looking Chrysler you have there.Do you know the history of the car?

Posted

It's certainly a desirable car to have as a project.Nice that it was kept in the family for that period of time until someone was able to work on it.I would find it interesting to know out a little more of the history of the car were it mine.Don't know how easy that is with the DMV in Washington..

Posted

That makes it difficult.I had a look in one of my books and Chrysler made two 4 door Sed of the CT Model in 1933 one being a 5 Pass.with a 120" WB and the other a 7/8 Pass. with a 128" WB...Prod. figure on the 120" WB was 7993 and for the 128" WB it was 246.

Posted

moparbenny;225511 wrote: i'm thinking about disc brakes mainly because if i could have a choice to which brakes i like working on...discs hands down..<<

You bet! I just hope you save the parts you take off so the next owner can restore it if he wants.

>>i just found out the volvo set up would not work on my car because my '33 is an 8 cylinder car and there for has different spindles then the 6 cylinder cars.<<

That's interesting. Do the 6 cylinder Chryslers have the same spindles as the 6 cylinder Dodges and Plymouths?

>>if i kept the stock brakes ( which are 12 inchers) the one thing i would change the fruit jar master cylinder to a duel chamber....<<

AMEN! I would also replace all the brake lines and hoses,and run radial tires. IMHO,those old nylon tires are the most dangerous thing about old cars. I am looking for good used 18 inch nylon tires to put on my 31 Plymouth coupe,but only because I do not plan on keeping the car. Same thing with keeping the single outlet master cylinder. If I were to keep it for myself I would also use a dual-outlet master cylinder.

>>>but good news is i found a place right here in Seattle that i could get brake parts:)<<<

I found a place in Fargo,ND that relined the brake shoes on my 31 Plymouth at a very reasonable price,and found brake hoses on ebay. Let me know if you want the Fargo source and I will look it up for you. I can probably look up the ebay vendor that provided the hoses,too. The hoses are made in Argentina,not the US.

Arthur

Posted (edited)
here's some pics

WOW! That was a GREAT find! I am eaten alive with jealousy. Where did you find it?

BTW,if you find out the engine is stuck let me know on this thread and I can tell you the best and easiest way to get it unstuck without damaging it.

I think the odds are you are going to find out the engine is in good condition,though. These things were gas hogs and people in the 30's were more thrifty than most people today. Plus,there was practically zero demand for these big straight 8 cars on the used car market. Chances are it was just parked in running condition after the owner bought something newer and more economical to operate. Or even something with more status than a used car.

I came close to taking a 289 Ford engine to the crusher because the old F-350 homebuilt wrecker it was in was so rusty the frame had broken in half,and there wasn't even enough oil in it to touch the dipstick and it was stuck. On top of that at least half the plugs were oil fouled. I decided to take a chance on it and poured 4 quarts of non-detergent 30 weight in it that I had laying around,wire wheeled the fouled plugs and put used plug wires on it (the old ones were so rotten they pulled apart when I took them off the plugs) ,just to check. It had been sitting so long I had to hit on a socket extension with a hammer to get the throttle plate to open and the carb linkage working.

Poured a little gas in the carb,and damned if it didn't start on about the third revolution,and sit right there and idle! Once it had ran for a minute or two it quit smoking because the WD-40 I had poured in the cylinders once I got it unstuck burned off. I looked inside to check the oil pressure,and it was holding at 50 psi at idle!

That was when I decided to spend the big bucks to put a fan belt on it,new plugs, and fill it with water so I could see what it would do once warmed up. To my surprise it was full of anti-freeze and water,and I only had to pour in maybe a pint to top it off.

I put a new belt on it so it wouldn't run the battery down and so the water pump would turn,and fired it up again and let it run for 45 minutes at idle. It was still sitting there and holding slightly more than 40 psi oil pressure at idle after 45 minutes. No smoking,no knocks,and no rattles. Sat right there and ran as smooth at butter.

I pulled it and the C4 out of the truck and sold them to a friend of mine who is restoring a 68 Mustang for $350 instead of the $75 I probably would have gotten at the crusher,and he and I both ended up getting a good deal. Plus it is a vintage engine and trans that was saved from being melted down.

Arthur

Edited by knuckleharley
Posted
and when you think how many of them survived the war..and lady bird johnson.

..not to many left. that's why any mods i do i want to be able to turn it back to stock.so if the next guy wants it that way he can..

I don't understand what Lady Bird Johnson had to do with crushing old cars. It's my understanding that her issue was the See Rock City, X miles to Wall Drug, and Burma Shave signs.

Posted (edited)

You can thank her for the laws and ordinances that led to the requirement that wrecking yards, junk dealers, and other similar operations needed to seal their yards from eye level view of passers by. They were also barred from havig piles of stuff that exceeded the hieght of the fence. A lot of yards started crushing stuff and selling out rather than go to the expense involved with erecting fences around their operations. It was contained in the 1965 Highway Beautification Act. That was supposed to control billboards but actually worked to increase both their size and numbers.

Edited by greg g

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