Aluminum head is stuck.....help

[38plymouth]

I'm trying to take off my aluminum head because I stripped a spark plug insert. It needs to go to the machine shop. I got everything unbolted but the head won't come off. Two studs came out and I tried getting the others out but they feel like they might snap. I turned the engine over hoping the compression would pop it up but it didn't work. It feels like it's stuck on the studs, I remember it going on tight when I put it on. I have soaked the studs with a can of pb blaster and some are sucking the oil in. I also hit the head and studs with a hammer hoping it would free up. It sounds like it's broke free but it won't pull off. I gave up for tonight and hopefully the oil will break something free. Does anyone have any ideas?

[JBNeal]

have ya tried smacking the sides with a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer to jar the head loose from the block? I've also used a small cold chisel at a corner as a wedge to pop the head loose, sacrificing the head gasket in the process.

[Plymouthy Adams]

you could try to place some rope into the plug holes on 1 and 6 as they both rise to the top at the same time and see if the pistons will gently push it up equally...

[aero3113]

you could try to place some rope into the plug holes on 1 and 6 as they both rise to the top at the same time and see if the pistons will gently push it up equally...

Good idea Tim

[jd52cranbrook]

I have pulled my old aluminum head more times that I care to admit. (Off for good now)

I have always had to pull all the studs out first. Saves me time and anger instead of pulling a few with no luck, then pulling more. Also, with my studs at least, which are actually a tad short, the head won't clear the firewall straight up.

Good luck,, these heads gave me a big HEAD ACHE

[Don Coatney]

Hopefully the studs in your engine are undercut on the shank. I other words the shank is smaller than the threaded portion of the studs. If not then the studs may have rusted and expanded to the head even though the head is aluminum. This will make for very difficult removal. Keep soaking with penetrating oil and hope for the best. Refrain from using a hammer on the aluminum head as it will damage the head. A rubber mallot or a dead blow hammer is the perfered tool.

[greg g]

How about rigging a chain that into one of the thermostat bolts, and something screwed into the heater outlet. Then with a cherry picker or come along, (the hood may need to come off) put a little upward tension on the head while smacking the head with the dead blow.

[dezeldoc]

And when you put the head back on be sure to use anti seize on all the studs, it will keep it from doing the electrolysis thing and the head won't stick to the steel studs.

[38plymouth]

I hit it with a mallet so many times my arms are sore. It's broke loose but the studs are holding it and I can't get anything underneath it. I'm hoping that after soaking the bolts it might be a little easier tonight. I remember when I put it on that it was very tight going down onto the studs. I think I may have the holes in the head opened a bit when I do get it off. I tried to get the studs out and they aren't moving. I'm afraid they ar going to snap.

I'm considering hooking the plugs up and putting the nuts on the studs a little then firing it up for a second. I'm very nervous about doing it though. Has anyone tried this?

[james49ply]

When working on diesel engines the injectors would get stuck in the head, no amount of pulling would work, so i just added a little starting fluid, cranked er over and they shot out like a cannon, you could do the same thing, let the expanding gasses to the work for you.

[38plymouth]

When working on diesel engines the injectors would get stuck in the head, no amount of pulling would work, so i just added a little starting fluid, cranked er over and they shot out like a cannon, you could do the same thing, let the expanding gasses to the work for you.

Do you think it could hurt the aluminum or anything else? It just seems like a bad idea but I may have no choice.

[190bearplace]

The compression difference helped you on the diesel. Every time I tried to remove a stuck flathead by running the engine it would run all day if I let it. There was a cutter tool that slipped over the studs and chamfered the head around the bolts that never worked. The studs have to come out.

[Plymouthy Adams]

yeah..I can see the dent in the hood now...not wise to play with fire..uncontrolled burns, different volumes of air in each cylinder..how you control the mix..even keeping the nuts in place on the studs I think I would go a less destructive method..of course its your baby...banging and prying on the outer edges will only cause you further headaches in my opinion with the soft casting of the aluminum..have you even tried the rope trick...

[38plymouth]

yeah..I can see the dent in the hood now...not wise to play with fire..uncontrolled burns, different volumes of air in each cylinder..how you control the mix..even keeping the nuts in place on the studs I think I would go a less destructive method..of course its your baby...banging and prying on the outer edges will only cause you further headaches in my opinion with the soft casting of the aluminum..have you even tried the rope trick...

I haven't tried it. The plug hole is closer to the valves, can the rope even be fished down into the cylinder? I guess I can try that first.

If I can get the studs out I know it will come off then but how do you get them out? They are tight and with the fins on the head I can't double nut most of them and get a wrench on them.

[james49ply]

Just thought of a new idea, back off the valve adjustment, so valves stay closed, remove plugs, fill with fuid, your choice, hand turn the crank with a LONG bar, fluid should push the head off:confused: good luck, if it dosen't work you may have to drill out the studs.

[jd52cranbrook]

Tough spot.

I have used a painters 5 in 1 tool or small putty knife to get between the head gasket and block to loosen the head up. Maybe you will get lucky and the head will clear coming straight up.

[38plymouth]

Tough spot.

I have used a painters 5 in 1 tool or small putty knife to get between the head gasket and block to loosen the head up. Maybe you will get lucky and the head will clear coming straight up.

I tried it, there is no gap whatsoever. I'm praying to the plymouth gods every hour until I get home tonight. Maybe they will have mercy on me and break it free.

[greg g]

can you get two nuts on the stud then unscrew the stud with the wrench on the bottom nut???

[38plymouth]

can you get two nuts on the stud then unscrew the stud with the wrench on the bottom nut???

I tried that on several studs around the outside of the head. They are so tight they feel like they will either snap off or strip. I can't double nut the ones around the fins because they don't allow a wrench to fit.

[jd52cranbrook]

I tried it, there is no gap whatsoever. I'm praying to the plymouth gods every hour until I get home tonight. Maybe they will have mercy on me and break it free.

Your going to have to make your own gap. As long as you are between the gasket and block there should not be any damage. Tap the 5 in 1 or putty knife with a hammer to get inside, then work your way around the block with the same procedure. Your not prying, just driving a wedge in.

Edited September 14, 2010 by jd52cranbrook

[38plymouth]

other than getting the head free, what other problems are there? do the aluminum heads not mate well with the copper gasket/cast iron block? corrosion issues? thermostat clearance issues? do spark plugs pop out? just curious I reckon...

My problem was that I installed the head without ever really tightening the plugs in it first. Once installed I put new plugs in and stripped 2 of them out. I then fixed it on the engine with spark plug inserts and then one of those stripped out. I have to remove it now to have them fixed right.

[Plymouthy Adams]

why are it all these heads are stripping out plugs holes..what grade is the casting..? something is amiss here in my book..but hey I don't trun the pages very often either...

[TodFitch]

why are it all these heads are stripping out plugs holes..what grade is the casting..? something is amiss here in my book..but hey I don't trun the pages very often either...

Threads in aluminum are not very strong... It would be pretty easy strip them.

Way back when I did a stint in a defense aerospace manufacturing plant. As I recall, all threaded holes in aluminum parts required steel inserts for strength and for durability.

Aluminum was used by Chrysler, at least in the era of my car, for high compression heads because it dissipates heat better than cast iron. With better heat dissipation there is less problems with localized hot spots creating pre-ignition (ping) problems.

But any time you mix different metal types and water you will have corrosion issues. Reading the thread, I would not be surprised if Don C's question/comment about undercut studs will be the key to this one. If the proper studs weren't used when the head was installed there is a very good chance that this head is not coming off without irreparable damage as the bond between the corroded stud shank and the hole in the aluminum head is going to be quite high.

[TodFitch]

Hmmm. I just remembered that there are tools, basically thin walled hole saws, for releasing studs and the parts they are frozen too. I believe that all you need to do, once you have the tool, is place it over the stud and drill out the head a few thousandths. That is probably the solution for this issue.

[38plymouth]

why are it all these heads are stripping out plugs holes..what grade is the casting..? something is amiss here in my book..but hey I don't trun the pages very often either...

The gentleman that gave me my head used it in the early 40's so I suppose the threads could be worn. I should have checked first and had them fixed. Oh well, I'm off to fight with it.