media in rear axle housing

[ggdad1951]

got my parts back from the blaster today and they blew thru the 4-5 layers of the duct tape they said to mask with, so I have media in there now..idea on how to clean it out?

[HanksB3B]

Assuming you are talking about a rear axle housing that is just the shell.

Step #1. A high pressure nozzle at home then improvise a giant Q-tip (use some sort disposable thing your wife normally uses to clean the floors with like a swifter, maybe or a Sham-Wow on a stick, then put the axle in the hot sun with a fan blowing into one end and then the other.

Step #2 Follow-up by spraying a lot of WD-40 to arrest any rust.

Step #3 When your wife reads you the riot act (Like Reg's always does) tell her yeah...yeah...sure sure..Then a few days later when she lets you into the house, make sure you show up with a brand new whatever you ruined. This is a win-win situation you'll get to work on your truck for a few days extra this way without having to do any chores.

Hank

[greg g]

Uh you followed their procedure and they defeated it, should be their responsibility to clean up their mistake. Maybe pay to have it hot tanked at a machine shop.

[ggdad1951]

Assuming you are talking about a rear axle housing that is just the shell.

Step #1. A high pressure nozzle at home then improvise a giant Q-tip (use some sort disposable thing your wife normally uses to clean the floors with like a swifter, maybe or a Sham-Wow on a stick, then put the axle in the hot sun with a fan blowing into one end and then the other.

Step #2 Follow-up by spraying a lot of WD-40 to arrest any rust.

Step #3 When your wife reads you the riot act (Like Reg's always does) tell her yeah...yeah...sure sure..Then a few days later when she lets you into the house, make sure you show up with a brand new whatever you ruined. This is a win-win situation you'll get to work on your truck for a few days extra this way without having to do any chores.

Hank

heh, no wife anymore! I can do what I want!

I was thinking, even tho Greg is probbaly correct, dealing with that s*%t isn't worth the time to drive and deal with it, go to Napa, get about 6 cans of brake cleaner, tip it up over a 5 gal bucket, swab towards the center and then spray the crap out of it w/ the brake cleaner...wipe it down and repeat...

or hot tank it...

sigh, will post pictures of the piles of starting to rust, clean metal tomorrow

[Plymouthy Adams]

blowing through 4 layers of duct tape just reinforces what I say about commercial blasters..their pressure is too high as is their media flow...while speed is money in their business..it ends up costing the customer even more as they come behind them cleaning up. I double tape with duct tape and have never blown through...my pressure and media flow is lighter, may take me an extra 30 minutes of work, no damage to parts, trim, glass or panels..I know not everyone has access to a blaster, compressor and area for that matter to do this job..but as one that pays the bills..the contracted company should have some regard to the customers concerns in protection of their property..hate that you had to experience this..hopefully other than just the frustration involved in coming behind them you will not find any physical damage..I guess I said all this to those who plan to have blasting done consider what happened in this case and to ask their blaster to cut back on pressure and flow and not linger around sensitive areas..ar at minimum use a hand held shield for added protection in these areas..I use a hand shield and find it very easy and really does not slow me down. Before I got my blaster setup I had mine stuff done at a local sign shop..they used lower pressures as it was compared to commercial blaster doing containers and big rigs etc, bridge components..do not overlook these guys as a source to get blasting accomplished..usually they will run you stuff through with a few signs and save you even more money...they also give you the option of priming on the average..this is great as it will also allow you to pick up the bare metal item, do a good eval of condition, afford you the opportunity to acid etch the metal prior to the primer for an even better protection level against future rust.

[ggdad1951]

blowing through 4 layers of duct tape just reinforces what I say about commercial blasters..their pressure is too high as is their media flow...while speed is money in their business..it ends up costing the customer even more as they come behind them cleaning up. I double tape with duct tape and have never blown through...my pressure and media flow is lighter, may take me an extra 30 minutes of work, no damage to parts, trim, glass or panels..I know not everyone has access to a blaster, compressor and area for that matter to do this job..but as one that pays the bills..the contracted company should have some regard to the customers concerns in protection of their property..hate that you had to experience this..hopefully other than just the frustration involved in coming behind them you will not find any physical damage..I guess I said all this to those who plan to have blasting done consider what happened in this case and to ask their blaster to cut back on pressure and flow and not linger around sensitive areas..ar at minimum use a hand held shield for added protection in these areas..I use a hand shield and find it very easy and really does not slow me down. Before I got my blaster setup I had mine stuff done at a local sign shop..they used lower pressures as it was compared to commercial blaster doing containers and big rigs etc, bridge components..do not overlook these guys as a source to get blasting accomplished..usually they will run you stuff through with a few signs and save you even more money...they also give you the option of priming on the average..this is great as it will also allow you to pick up the bare metal item, do a good eval of condition, afford you the opportunity to acid etch the metal prior to the primer for an even better protection level against future rust.

odd, thing is I SPECIFICALLY told the office guy to be carefull on the rear housing, obviously not translated to the shop guy. Overall, I really like the job they did, except for that. Now it is the time of watching a nice patina of rust start as I try to find the time to get paint on. Nice and humid right now in Minnesota, I hope to start to paint on Friday after parts pick up and delivery. I'm using POR-15 so I'm not TOO worried about a little surface rust.

Edited July 21, 2010 by ggdad1951

[Plymouthy Adams]

feel your pain there big guy...I have to deal with a number of different shops/sections during the course of my work day..man is it often tough to get everyone to follow the written procedures we are all held accountable to...some folks take shortcuts and flat out overlook details..enought to drive ya bonkers..

POR15 will give you an added level of protection on the frame with the tad of oxidation, actually they do not like or recommend it going over fresh prepared metal..

[ggdad1951]

feel your pain there big guy...I have to deal with a number of different shops/sections during the course of my work day..man is it often tough to get everyone to follow the written procedures we are all held accountable to...some folks take shortcuts and flat out overlook details..enought to drive ya bonkers..

POR15 will give you an added level of protection on the frame with the tad of oxidation, actually they do not like or recommend it going over fresh prepared metal..

I've got the POR-15 degreaser and the POR-15 etch...great, might have dropped over $800 on something not recommended? So much for the friend's recommendation! DRRR.... so maybe I SHOULD let is patina a bit...sigh

[greg g]

get some ospho from a body shop supply place. It is diluted phosphoric acid and zinc. you spray it on and it will leave a protective primarable coating on bare metal. If you can't find it, the big hardware chains (ace, true screw, do it best, etc.) sell a product called the must for rust. which is basically a repackaged and more expensive by the oz. ospho solution in a spray bottle.

You can get ospho for 20/30 bucks a gallon, or this stuff for 11 bucks for the 32 oz sprayer.

[Reg Evans]

Step #3 When your wife reads you the riot act (Like Reg's always does) tell her yeah...yeah...sure sure..Then a few days later when she lets you into the house, make sure you show up with a brand new whatever you ruined. This is a win-win situation you'll get to work on your truck for a few days extra this way without having to do any chores.

Hank

You must have me confused with someone else Hank. My wife makes me let her run the blaster. She'll usually bring me a drink and say "Have a seat honey and let me take over"

If I don't it's the Dog House for me.

[48Dodger]

I've heard a lot lately that POR 15 is better with the rust left on (Paint Over Rust?) and that clean metal needs to be roughed up real good or it will pull itself off the surface. I've done a few jobs with clean metal and haven't had it happen yet, I'm sure with the blasting job you've had done, the etch, etc..the Por15 should work fine.

One thing I did learn recently is that regular POR 15 is UV sensitive. If you use it on something thats exposed to the sun, you need to cover it with the POR 15 paint. The paint has to go on before the regular stuff drys or you're sanding a real tough surface.

48D

[Mario Loya B1B]

Reg + Mrs. Reg = Match made In Heaven. We should all be so lucky!

[ggdad1951]

I've heard a lot lately that POR 15 is better with the rust left on (Paint Over Rust?) and that clean metal needs to be roughed up real good or it will pull itself off the surface. I've done a few jobs with clean metal and haven't had it happen yet, I'm sure with the blasting job you've had done, the etch, etc..the Por15 should work fine.

One thing I did learn recently is that regular POR 15 is UV sensitive. If you use it on something thats exposed to the sun, you need to cover it with the POR 15 paint. The paint has to go on before the regular stuff drys or you're sanding a real tough surface.

48D

sounds like i need it to sit and rust up a bit then. I've got an e-mail into POR-15 to get the scoop and will post ther result.

The final coat stuff I ordered is the UV resistant stuff, first coat isn't.

[Plymouthy Adams]

am sure your reply mail will inlude a whole array of products to properly prepare the different level of surface condition you will have on your project..they, like most major brands, like to sell a SYSTEM instead of a product..POR15 has its uses, I have used it myself but never over untreated rust area..I like this product for areas that are to remain hidden from view and where rust can/will originate as a preventative measure to protect against reoccurance..very few magic bullets out there for "all in one" sure fire method or product..the easier they advertise the system to work with, the higher the cost to the user...personally I have found little that will substitute for a bit of elbow grease and proper application of phosphoric acid when it comes to dealing with corrosion right down to a acid wipe of a new piece of bare metal....

Edited July 21, 2010 by Tim Adams

[grey beard]

I just installed a 3:54 pumkin in my Pilothouse. I have a complete rear that is 4:56 ratio, in working order - needs to be reassembled, complete with axles and brakes/drums. If anyone can use this, it's yours for the taking. Please don''t ask me to ship this puppy - it's HDAVY!

Good Luck

[HanksB3B]

Reg + Mrs. Reg = Match made In Heaven. We should all be so lucky!

I'm betting your wife made you do the dishes, vacumme the whole house and do the windows the day after.

Hank

[ggdad1951]

ok, after work I tried a little brake cleaner and got really "bleh" results, just too old and guncky remainder to do much. So I packed up my parachute and went to test gravity, during the climb to altitude I came to the conclusion I'm going to have to have the housing hot bath'd, I just don't see any really good way to assure it's clean otherwise.

So the following question is posed: do I paint at least the first coat of paint on prior to bath so I can reassemble quick to get oil back on the inside to minimize rust on the interior of the housing, or am I over thinking?

[Dave72dt]

Way overthinking. All you'll get on the inside is some flash rust at best(or worst). When you pick it up, spray the inside with WD40 or similar, then rebuild on your schedule.

Your first coat of paint is likely to come off in the hot bath.

[dontknowitall]

I love the protected clothing... Red legs anyone??

You must have me confused with someone else Hank. My wife makes me let her run the blaster. She'll usually bring me a drink and say "Have a seat honey and let me take over"

If I don't it's the Dog House for me.

[ggdad1951]

from POR-15

"POR-15 is designed to be applied to bare or rusted metals only. If you have a freshly sandblasted surface you can apply the POR-15 directly to that surface. If you have wiped the surface down with anything like acetone or lacquer then you would want to use the Marine Clean and Metal REady to clean and prep your surface."

so ok, good to go....thanks everyone! I hate being one of the FNG's!

just heard back from the blaster...pretty much the brush off with my soft shoe approach for them to make it right...but they've got my money, they'll just not get any more business from me or mine...

Edited July 22, 2010 by ggdad1951

[John-T-53]

For large cleaning jobs where a solvent type chemical is needed, I like to use gasoline or mineral spirits - cheap by the gallon when compared to individual cans of carb or brake cleaner. You can splash in liberal amounts, slosh it around, and rinse with fresh solvent until it's clean. Then save the dirty fluid in a container where the solids can settle out and you can reuse it.

Then do the final rinse with brake cleaner to get rid of the residue.

Just have to make sure you have adequate ventilation, gloves, disposal, and that no one comes around with a lit cig or playing with matches...