Dan Babb Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I'm outside trying to figure out how to remove the brake & clutch pedals. Couldn't figure it out, so I come inside to search. Some threads say I need to leave the clutch & brake pedals on to pull the engine & trans out as one unit? But I need to pull the steering column? Is that right? How much work is it to pull the steering column? Assume I'm retarded...ok? Please give me step by step instructions....or come to my house to help me get this thing out of my truck please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I pulled mine without removing them but the front of the engine then has to go up at a severe angle. The front fenders were on also. I did NOT remove the steering column. If I were to take the engine out again, I would remove the front fenders and all, then all floor boards, not a real hard job, then remove the pedals then the engine. I cheated when I put my engine in. To get the pedals in, the remaining floor board has to be forced up at least 6+ inches. I just cut the floor at the corner into the battery hole and lifted the inside piece. It all bolted down nice and tight, but then I took the practical not the fancy route. That's what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I am a bit far away but love to come to your house.. I would really! Easy way to get it out is to remove the whole noose. Its only bolts and nuts, makes you job so much easier. My noose came of within 4 hours, 2 people caring it away from the truck. Then you have all the room to fiddle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Noose? I have all the sheetmetal from the front off the truck already. I'll try taking out the floor and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) removal of the floor plates allows you to move the engine forward with pedals in place on the bellhousing. Now, in saying this the only differents is that my pedals are RHD being in Oz.. Edited July 14, 2010 by dontknowitall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I recall the shop manual mentioning removing the front fenders & grille shell as a unit. If you've got an engine hoist, you could probably do this by using some 2x4s & lifting straps. If you've got the floor shifter, remove the top plate from the transmission to clear the cab firewall after removing the floorboards. Then the engine/transmission can be unbolted from the frame, tilted up, pulled forward, raised and removed for further entertainment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Whoever designed this brake pedal setup should have either been shot or been forced to replace them for customers as punishment. I removed the top floor piece. Got the clutch pedal off. The brake pedal is probably really close, but no cigar. It hits the steering shaft before coming off the pivot shaft. Guess I'll have to mess with it once I get the engine on the hoist and can tilt/slide it until I can get it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 I cheated....I had ALL the body panels off as well as the floor boards by that point and the streering column out..then we took the pedals off...BUT we dismounted the tranny from the engine as well so we could hump the thing out and not have stuff fall to the concrete. Then we tilted the tranny to the side and muscled it out the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysouthwick Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 can you detach the pedals from the bell housing because my truck is in the same spot that Dans is in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 You can't. I tried that first...but then looked at the diagrams and see that the pedals are mounted to a shaft that goes all the way through to the other side. That fork is what moves the clutch. So you really need to have the pedals off to remove that pivot shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Here's how I did it when I reinstalled my engine: Remove the floor boards. Remove the tranny, then remove the two bolts that hold the clutch fork/shaft bushing collar to the bell housing (left side of BH next to brake pedal). Slide the bushing collar out of the BH hole, and slide the fork shaft to the left so it's out of the bushing on the right side of the BH. Now you can wiggle it in all directions, and slide it back in at an angle so you can slip of the pedal. If you get the shaft at just the right angle, you can slide the brake pedal off with the engine in the truck. It's tight, but it's possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) There a cover on the bottom of the belhousing that can be accessed. Remove that cover The throw out brg arm is probably clamped to the shaft with a couple bolts and a woodruff key or a tapered bolt w/locknut. Loosen/remove them/it if they are there and slide the shaft to the other side. should give enough clearance to get the other pedal off. been 25 + years since I've seen a stock bellhousing so don't remember exactly how they were built. Edited July 14, 2010 by Dave72dt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 There a cover on the bottom of the belhousing that can be accessed. Remove that cover The throw out brg arm is probably clamped to the shaft with a couple bolts and a woodruff key or a tapered bolt w/locknut. Loosen/remove them/it if they are there and slide the shaft to the other side. should give enough clearance to get the other pedal off. been 25 + years since I've seen a stock bellhousing so don't remember exactly how they were built. The truck clutch fork and cross shaft are (is) one piece on the stock setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 You guts are making an easy job into a hard one. YOu need to use the "search" feature on this forum a little more often,m and you'd already know this stuff. After you have the clutch pedal off - t just slides off the left end of the clutch shaft - get a six-foot spud bar and pry the floor corner up about eight inches and slide a piece of cribbig - a wood block - in there to hold it up, then the pedal will clear the column and slide right off. After you rebush the pedal and replace the grease zerk nobody ever greases, pull the block out and pound the floor back in place. It's not like reinventing the wheel or anytthing . . . Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 A one piece clutch shaft and fork is hard to believe but I see its so in the parts book. Some engineer must have had a severe brain fade that day. From what I read in the repair manual, the engine/trans was never intended to come out of the truck in one piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 (edited) YOu need to use the "search" feature on this forum a little more often,m and you'd already know this stuff. Its a forum Dave. Its a place where guys talk "truck".....Its not a research site alone, but a social site too. I see Ed post the same bushing kit photo for the T-5 swap every month, I read the same questions about "over heating", "paint" and "how do you get the steering collum out" almost as often. The cool thing, is its someone different asking the question. Which means I might make a new friend on this forum, Or I can skip it and say "I already know this one" and go check out Ebay instead and see what Dutch or Reg are selling. I remember when I was first posting, I thought Don hated me. But in time I realized he's a funny guy who wants to drive my race car. I just think its the dumb, repeated, over worked, and obvious questions that lead to great friendships. I'm glad your here too Greybeard, you have a perspective that is welcome and well thought out. If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't know how to use the word "whilst".....really. Infact, I'm gonna google the orgins of that word whilst you gents figure out how to pull that engine. 48D Edited July 15, 2010 by 48dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Its a forum Dave. Its a place where guys talk "truck".....Its not a research site alone, but a social site too. I see Ed post the same bushing kit photo for the T-5 swap every month, I read the same questions about "over heating", "paint" and "how do you get the steering collum out" almost as often. The cool thing, is its someone different asking the question. Which means I might make a new friend on this forum, Or I can skip it and say "I already know this one" and go check out Ebay instead and see what Dutch or Reg are selling. I remember when I was first posting, I thought Don hated me. But in time I realized he's a funny guy who wants to drive my race car. I just think its the dumb, repeated, over worked, and obvious questions that lead to great friendships. I'm glad your here too Greybeard, you have a perspective that is welcome and well thought out. If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't know how to use the word "whilst".....really. Infact, I'm gonna google the orgins of that word whilst you gents figure out how to pull that engine.48D heh, or some of us are too lazy, or not smart enought to run a "Search"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Greybeard....I'm not sure what you mean about bending the floorboard up. I have already removed the upper floor board that is around the pedals, so there's nothing in the way for me to bend. Are you suggesting I raise the whole cab? Can I do that without unbolting the cab from the frame? As of now, I need to be able to slide the pedal over about 2 more inches for it to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 This is how I put my engine back in even with the radiator attached. With the chain sling, it could change the angle of the engine by moving the chain a link at a time. With that winch from the rafters, it was a one man job. It also helped me with the pedals because I could then drop the rear a bit more to get the clearance needed to put them on. Hope this helps. Lift the floor like Greybeard said and you will have all the room you need. When a bit discouraged, just think of the engine as a deer that you are about to draw and quarter!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Well I'm not a technical expert on these trucks by any means, but after 30+ years in the automotive and agricultural repair business, I've found that following the directions in the repair manual is often the fastest and easiest. I can't tell you how many bolts to remove to unbolt the engine from the belhousing but it can't be to many and they generally don't get rusted in like sheet metal fasteners do. Same thing for the trans from the bellhousing. Is there any particular reason it needs to come out in one piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 GOT IT!!! I didn't know if I should laugh, cry or throw this thing into the woods, then go shoot it...but I got it out. Wound up being able to move the engine to the pass side a bit with it on the hoist (not easy), but once I got the trans mount that's attached to the frame turned a bit, the engine moved over and I was able to get the pedal off. Someone find me the name of the engineer who designed this so I can take the pedal and shove it up his @$$...even if I have to go dig up his grave to do it. Proof of success Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Oh that's why...its a 57 pedal.....lol, I'm sooooo kidding. Nice work Dan. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Oh that's why...its a 57 pedal.....lol, I'm sooooo kidding. Nice work Dan. 48D Oh if you only knew the grief I was caused by a situation like that. Sometime in mid 1946 after blah blah serial number they changed brake pedals and push rods. Somehow I ended up with the late pedal and the early pushrod. Couldn't get any brakes for about an entire summer until Dad bought a parts book and figured that mess out. Then it was a trip to the junkyard to find a correct part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 GOT IT!!!I didn't know if I should laugh, cry or throw this thing into the woods, then go shoot it...but I got it out. Wound up being able to move the engine to the pass side a bit with it on the hoist (not easy), but once I got the trans mount that's attached to the frame turned a bit, the engine moved over and I was able to get the pedal off. Someone find me the name of the engineer who designed this so I can take the pedal and shove it up his @$$...even if I have to go dig up his grave to do it. Proof of success why does it look like you are about to bust into a bad karoke song? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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