41/53dodges Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 ok, i have not tried this mix yet, im still trying to figure what to put it in that it wont eat. i tried a glass snapple bottle, i was testing the seal in the cap because that is some kind of rubber, so i was poking at it with a steel pick, and when i went to pull it back, and the cap came with! i tried it a few more times with different things, and it definately was magnetizing the things dipped in it! anybody else try this mix or get these type of results with the acetone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanOlson Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 I use a glass bottle with a glass stopper. The kind found in chem labs. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Koch Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 wow, this is all new to me. Never heard of this so I did some internet searching. Came up with this comment: ---------------------------------------------- PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 ------------------------------------------------------- I'm going to have to keep this in my mental tool box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 sounds kinda like Marvel Mystery Oil...we buy that stuff by the gallon whenever working on rusty bolts. I've made a dispenser out of a plastic 20oz. DP bottle cuz it has a conical shape and is harder to slip out of the hand. Took a philips screw driver to poke a hole in the plastic bottle cap, keep it at least half full whenever working on a project. With a li'l practice, that plastic bottle can be squeezed to shoot the MMO upwards when working under something. Made the same kind of dispenser for water whenever cleaning batteries with baking soda + vinegar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 How 'bout using a small spring bottom oil can for this mix? Also, the small 3-in-1 oil cans might work well. I'll have to give this mix a try....Dextron for GM rusty bolts, Type F for Ford rusty bolts, and ATF+3 for Mopar bolts. This might have been a good thing to try on the door lock set screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Mebby I'm missing somethin' here, but why must acetone be handled so carefully - glass stoppers, glass bottles? Give unto me a break, guys. This stuff is sold in all my local hardwares in tin cans with plastic lids. Are we talking about two different kinds of stuff here, or what? I use the stuff to bleach the stain out of wood in my clock projects. It works okay but xylene works even better. Is there some precaution about using acetone that I should know about? Used to use the stuff in a blood lab where I worked years ago, and never heard any special problems/precautions related to it. What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 i was kinda wonderin that myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 each person handles chemicals in their own way..right or wrong..soliciting advice here could be contrary to your health...so please always refer to the MSDS for all use, storage, handling of said product..you as the purchasing consumer/user and by that accept the liabilities with the use of the product.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Mebby I'm missing somethin' here, but why must acetone be handled so carefully - glass stoppers, glass bottles? Give unto me a break, guys. This stuff is sold in all my local hardwares in tin cans with plastic lids. Are we talking about two different kinds of stuff here, or what?I use the stuff to bleach the stain out of wood in my clock projects. It works okay but xylene works even better. Is there some precaution about using acetone that I should know about? Used to use the stuff in a blood lab where I worked years ago, and never heard any special problems/precautions related to it. What gives? Repeated immersion in ANY chemical solution has to have long term effects......and probably not the good ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Aside from the implied health issues, I believe thmajor concern is that acetone will siften most plastic containers, and will eventually degrade the gasket in lid of glass or metal containers once opened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 there are some plastics and rubbers that acetone does not bother, look at the link i posted awhile back on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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