Original Patina Part 2

[pflaming]

Temp outside is 60 degrees, with no apologies to those who have magnificant winter views outside their window. So, I got to work on my bed. The pictures tell the tale. What I did was to clean them down with lacquer thinner then sanded them to the current look. Next, visited with a paint shop and he said some cover with a semi-gloss clear coat. Not quite ready to do that because that would be a final / no change look. So. . . further research is required.

Some of you are headed to some quality car shows. If you would, would you do some research on this? Ask some, who have done a 'survival', look just what they did. There is a chance that I have gone too far. That I should have cleaned without sanding and left it. My cab is that way, no sanding just cleaning with a fine grit cleaner and left.

[Young Ed]

Looks like it would be a fine survivor look with a little clear coat. The less shiney the clear the better I would think. Also probably want to be consistant and go back and do the cab the same way.

[pflaming]

Ed, the cab and fenders cleaned up differently than the bed side panels did. There isn't much difference in the resulting color. The bed had a lot of 'overspray' like some one overshot the bed with a light coat of bondo. Had to be a bit aggressive to get it off but then the color came, note this side panel. Still lots of hand work left.

I have a small sander that 'oscillates' in what ever rotation it chooses and that has been a nice tool. Been using fine and extra fine sandpaper with this sander. Question: Does bondo somewhat dissolve when water hits it?

I included a side view of the truck before I started all this. It will look different when all the pieces are put back on. I think I will set them on tomorrow, not bolt them down, take a look and see what it looks like. That might give me some idea of how far to go.

PF

[Flatie46]

I used to build military models when I was younger I used dullcoat to help give a duller weathered finish I would think you would use something like this if youwere going for patina instead of clearcoat.

[greg g]

Were it mine I would drive it that way for a while, I kinda like a truck with character as long as it doesn't go all the way through. You'll probably get a lot of questios like whe you gonna finish it but, since that look like a well worn original finish instead of 4 or 5 layers sanded through, give her a shot. If you don't want to make it permanent, you might find a latex satin you could coat it with that would come off easy when and if you secide to refinish.

[pflaming]

Was looking through past issues of Classic Trucks looking for and at patina examples. I suddenly realized they refer to patina finishes in two ways: original and faux. We all know what original means, faux means imitation or fake.

I think a true original patina is a finish that is left untouched; to polish it may be acceptable but probably no sand paper. A faux patina is a finish that retains most of the original paint but the rusty areas have been 'refinished' in some way and the total finish probably has a semi-gloss clear coat or some other coating. I think the rat rods use the latter approach.

I am going to leave my truck as now is until I get a clear answer on what is being done.

[pflaming]

(1) tail gate showing three steps: lacquer washed-lacquer / clear coat - sanded to color; far right step shows that there is color under all the 'paint', (2) side panel with the end just lacquer washed the blue the result of sanding, (3) front panel: I used some light grit cleaner then a very old bottle of silicone wax, the left side is cleaned / siliconed, (4) inside view of the box after first sanding, (5) the last view the box originally, I was surprised how much color was under that surface.

Some early conclusions: (1)The blue paint WILL shine up, so if I would do a good job of wet/dry sanding for a very smooth surface, this old truck has some shine left in it, (2) BUT what about the shiny (metal exposed) areas? I don't think polish will protect them from rusting, am if correct on that? (3) I have NOT sanded the cab and front fenders, not with a oscilating sander, too many edges/rolls that would go shiny fast, so with a nice very light wet/dry sanding, then a good grit clean and polish the cab and fender should look ok. (4) lacquer thinner removes surface oxidation faster than anything I have tried. On good paint you have to be careful because it will soften new paint. I figured it couldn't significantly hurt this 50 year old paint.

On the fender tops, the top of the cab, and the hood, I am working with a paint company and we are going to wet/dry sand those areas, then primer them with a blue/grey primer and let it be.

Will keep you posted. I hope all this is not boring or that you think I am 'boasting' or whatever. My intent is only to show what one person is trying to do to keep an old 'survivor paint' finish. In closing one thing I think is certain, once you put the sander to the finish it is no longer a true 'original patina'. I had no choice on the bed, it was coated/painted with something grey that was a rough as sand paper.

PF

[pflaming]

Got my second wind so I attacked one fender, besides it was still 65 degrees out (1) lacquer washed, (2) sanded with very, very fine until smooth and color was showing, went very delicately then cleaned with a grit cleaner, (3) then polished with a VERY old silicone wax. This fender is now smooth and shiny and no (few) bare metal spots.

I think this is what a lot of 'patina' finishes are. Probably no clear coat applied, so what if a little rust show up, tackle it when it becomes bothersome and otherwise enjoy, especially here on the West Coast. I do not know how rust works but it appears it comes though the pores of the paint, it does not seem to grow from below and LIFT the paint. Otherwise I could not get color where once there was 'total' rust.

Your responses are welcomed.

PS: Note the difference between the fender top and the fender flare. I did nothing to the flare to see if a difference appeared.

[Czechrod]

that patina is look'n damn good! i've seen alot of rides done this way now and will say the rats usually dont do anything to the paint, most of the time you need a tetnus shot just to work on it:eek: and i love rat rods! but being able to run my fingers across the body and have rust build up all over my fingers just aint me. but everybody is diff. thats whats great about this hobby.

if your wanting a clear coat just to protect your fingers and skin, and not be shinny on the paint. then rattle can clear coat in my opinion would be the best. it goes on kinda dull and almost powdery, it does not feel smooth nor look shinny.

60 deg. out huh? well whats your humidity like? if you really want a patina leave her how she is outside for a week or two and then rattle can the clear on. you'll really have a origional look then.

just my two cents, if it makes any.

[pflaming]

The current humidity is about 98%, makes Jack Daniels a bit more effective which is needed when wearing cutoff jeans:D . The current surface on the fender in the attachment is very smooth, couldn't strike a match on it. Appreciate the rattle can suggestion.

Standard Paint has an aerosol canister with a can on the bottom so one can use personal paint and spray it. A quart of semi-gloss clear costs about $40.00, pricey, but I may get a quart and do a section. I would like to get some protection but I do not want a high gloss. Clear day again today, so will experiment some more. One last comment.

It appears that where the rust has actually fully conquored the paint, it is not possible to get a shiny surface; smooth, yes! but the metal appears to have been permanently changed. Will test this more to day in an area that is not critical.

[Reg Evans]

Paul,

If you've used a rubbing compound or polishing compound I think you will have to totally remove any residue or the clear coat will fish eye. Several wipe downs with laquer thinner might do the trick.

[Vintrader]

Paul, I have used a product called Rustmort (I Think) It is used to stop rust but I just rubbed it on my tailgate with a rag. I leaves a dull finish and seems to stop any further rusting.

Dutch

[pflaming]

"If you've used a rubbing compound or polishing compound. . .

". . . a product called Rustmort. . ."

Reg, you are correct. Paint advisor said the same thing and he also said clear coat is almost as fussy to do as color because it IS paint.

Rustmort!? Is it clear after it dries?

Had a heavy dew this morinng; the moisture on the fenders I 'waxed' yesterday was all beaded up. I liked that!

[Young Ed]

I think if you were diligent about waxing you could just leave it like it is. But you'd have to keep reapplying as it got washed off.

[Fernando Mendes]

http://www.46chevytruck.com/46restoration.htm

Have a good luck in your restoration too.Let us know.

[pflaming]

With the amount of work I have put into my truck I can more fully appreciate the talent, time and money the above restoration took. I would guess they have close to ten grand in that restoration. How close am I? I don't have the talent nor money to do something like that. It is NICE!

[pflaming]

Partial reassembled for storage. Got to get the hood, etc. Cab is NOT polished which helps. Still lots of work for a faux patina. Which do you prefer: The black or the red wheels?

[Young Ed]

I like the black. To me its more in line with the old look.

[Merle Coggins]

I too like the black ones.

Merle

[Vintrader]

And yes Rustmort drys clear and hard. It goes on a little milky but not to worry. As always do a little test patch that is kinda of hidden.

Dutch

[pflaming]

Now will seek some professonal help on how to finish this the right way. It still needs some luxury rings, bumpers, mirrors, windows, grill, and . . . I got lucky, bought a red hood and found blue like the truck under the red, yes that is the same hood, just amazing.

A lot of detail sanding is still needed but I think it is becoming defined. This would be a faux patina finish. I like the term 'survival' finish. Went through alot of wet/dry sandpaper, no longer have fingernails. I hope you like the progress. Any suggestions on how to finish this will be appreciated.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[buds truck]

Paul, once your fingers get well enough to leaf thru a magazine, go and pick up the new street rodder. They have an article on how to "paint your car for $306.00". paint is from summit and although I have not read it all the way thru, the article has been interesting. Sounds like it might be worth a try, especially if you have priced paint lately. Bud

[Frank Elder]

Paul, sorry I took so long, loved the e-mail of your red nose..lol.

If you "patina" the hood just the way it is, red, then you will have a survior look that is credible. Then it will just look like the person needed a hood replaced early on in owning the truck, say it was stolen, and he got one from a wrecked truck and it aged right along with the blue body.

Not everybody saw the need to make work truck panels match back in the day because trucks got pretty beat up and abused by their owners on a daily basis.