Stuck bolt

[brian hood]

When I started taking the intake/exhaust manifold off i got all the bolts loose except the two deep set nuts on the exhaust header. These are rounded off and I can not get anything to bite. Any suggestions on how to get these two remaining nuts loose? Can I seperate the two manifolds and get to it easier? It's still mounted in the engine on the car. Rrrrr!

[greg g]

any one good with a torch around. Perhaps the heads can be heated up and blown away.

[Young Ed]

Brian I wouldn't suggest trying to seperate the 2 pieces. The 4 bolts holding them together almost always break too and then the 1/2s won't come apart. Then you have 2 wiggely pieces to struggle with.

[Plymouthy Adams]

as you have already come this far..and you want to complete the task..I highly suggest that they be heated a couple cycle if you have access in order to disintergrate the rust between the threads and lands...also Craftsman makes an excellent set of 6 extractors just for rounded heads..they work wonders..well worth the investment..as we all know these older cars do get rusted/rounded heads with age..

[billwillard]

If you have a mig just weld a new nut to them. The heat will help and you have a good head on the bolt. May still wring off but will be easy to get to after removing man.

[plymouth49]

billwillard's suggestion is good. These bolts can be a real PITA.

Here are some additional ideas:

1) Hammer on a smaller six point socket.

2) Same as above, with heat.

3) I have had the hex heads on these two bolts shear right off. You would expect the manifolds to come right off. Think again: the shanks can seize to the exhaust manifold. Drilling this out is possible but tedious. In this case, wiggle the manifold pair back and forth (all the other bolts and studs are out, right) until you get a little slack in between the manifold ports and the block. Poke/scrape out the gasket: now you have even more room. Slide a Sawzall blade in between and you can quickly sever the bolts. Be careful not to booger the block or manifolds with the blade. It does not take much to cut through the bolts. Drill/tap the bolt stubs as you would any broken stud.

On reassembly, use antiseize!

[TodFitch]

I am a little surprised we are talking about bolts here. I guess I have to look at the parts book for your "new" 1940s engines.

On my "old" 1930s engine the manifolds are attached to the block with studs and brass nuts. If it is done that way then anti-seize compound is not needed as the brass nuts will come off no matter what (might be scrap when they come off but they do come off).

[plymouth49]

I am a little surprised we are talking about bolts here. I guess I have to look at the parts book for your "new" 1940s engines.

On my "old" 1930s engine the manifolds are attached to the block with studs and brass nuts. If it is done that way then anti-seize compound is not needed as the brass nuts will come off no matter what (might be scrap when they come off but they do come off).

The brass nuts will come off - if they are still there! Usually, over the years the brass nuts and special washers go bye-bye. Then, the manifolds crack because they can't expand and contract as they can with the stock hardware. To repair it, you have to pull it all apart and guess what won't come off.

Also, the bolts in question are mounted underneath and go all the way thru the exhaust manifiold. There are only 2 bolts like this. The heads are in recesses so you won't get much in the way of a tool in there if the heads round off.

Typically, step one is for the heads to round off. Step two is to hammer on a smaller six point socket. This takes a real good hold on the bolt head. Step three is for the bolt head to twist right off, leaving the bolt shanks in place. Step four is when the bolts are rusted solidly to the manifold, so it won't come off. Step five is to get out the Sawzall, as I described in a previous response.

[plymouth49]

My engine has 13 studs with nuts for mounting the manifolds to the engine. No bolts.

Try hammering on the next smaller size socket.

Also, since you have nuts on the bolts, the beeswax trick can work for you. Heat the nuts/ends of the studs red hot. Touch candle wax to the threads. It will get sucked inside. Get that socket on there, and the nuts should spin right off. The wax actually works better on this than Gibbs, Kroil, etc.

[tinlizzy]

It was suggested to me to get the type of sockets similiar to the easy out screws. I got my socket set at sears 19.95. They have a blade edge inside and when they slip over the nut and you back it off they cut into the surface of the nut and out they came. Works great and no worries of tearing any thing apart or using torches. The brass nuts were on there so tight that when I removed them the studs came with them. Also don't forget the bolt up and behind the area where the exhaust and intake are bolted together.

[Reg Evans]

Brian,

Your stuck stud reminds me of my problem a while back removing an exhaust manifold. Hang in there ! You'll get it.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=2607

[Plymouthy Adams]

..them puppies have saved me a many time...momma got me a set when they put them on the market..you will be glad they are in your inventory..for the guy who does not have a set...casual mention to momma 'bout this time may get these in your stocking...

[oldmopar]

I am a little surprised we are talking about bolts here. I guess I have to look at the parts book for your "new" 1940s engines.

On my "old" 1930s engine the manifolds are attached to the block with studs and brass nuts. If it is done that way then anti-seize compound is not needed as the brass nuts will come off no matter what (might be scrap when they come off but they do come off).

Tod here is a photo that shows the bolt

[Don Coatney]

Eleven studs and two bolts on my engine.

[TodFitch]

1928-33 Master parts book shows 11 short studs and 2 long studs for the PC and PD. 1934 parts book shows 2 long studs also. And the 1936-48 parts book show long and short studs and no bolts but the count on those don't add up to 13 so I don't know what the story is there.

I don't see any photos with this in the 1936-42 service manual, but in the 1948-54 service manual on page 146 (figure 22) it appears to show a long stud.