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Showing results for tags 'Oil'.
Found 21 results
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So, yet another question!!! this truck has new oil in it brand new almost! never even ran engine on the oil. and the engine had no water in it (in the cooling system) so my oil is milky white like it has water in it. I just think its a bad head gasket seal. but heres my main problem i know they dont push a lot of oil pressure and ive never exactly got the engine to run but it has oil in it like i said but even after the hours ive spent cranking it over there seems to be absolutely no oil in the oil filter how is that possible?? does the engine only push oil to it if its warmed up? what can you tell me about this issue because im days from tuning my engine and id hate to seize the engine!!! please help!! again i know nothing about how this oil system works!!! my filter was replaced about 2 years ago doesnt seem like oil has ever touched it??
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These are the oil leaks I've had so far and what I did to stop them. Here's my list so far... 1. Copper gasket under T-handle on bypass oil filter canister. This one was the messiest. Started the engine. The gasket was bad and it blew oil all over the place. Fix was easy. Replaced the gasket. 2. Oil pan cork gasket. Small puddle kept forming on the floor. Oil pan bolts weren't tight enough. Tightened all the bolts. 3. Brass fittings on bypass oil filter lines. Again, small puddle on the floor. This one was easy to spot but a small pain to fix. Removed the filter canister and lines. Wrapped the brass fitting threads with three or four turns of yellow teflon tape. The yellow tape is hydrocarbon resistant. White teflon tape won't last. That's why the fittings leaked in the first place. 4. Oil pan rear felt seal. The felt gasket gets soaked and leaks a few drops when the engine is running. I might live with this one for a while. The only fix I can see is to remove the oil pan and replace the felt gasket. For now I'll just check my oil level frequently.
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Coming up on the first year of ownership of a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker. Very satisfied with this daily driver car. in April I switched to 40 oil from 30 (engine has always only used non-detergent I am told). Engine is running nice and cool - never over 160 degrees (unless excessive idling waiting at a level RR crossing on a hot day then 180). Never any burned oil smoke coming from exhaust but I have started to notice puffs of white smoke coming from the crank exhaust (not the breather the exhaust under the car) - this occurs after I have been driving for some time and I stop at a red light, a moderate but embarrassing billow of white smoke wafts from under the car. I have changed the oil three times since April and it always turns black right after I change it. I was told that the car had a valve job in the not too distant past and oil pressure appears good - always above 40 PSI - 60 when first started- and drops to slightly below 20 when hot weather and idling very slowly. Before I take it in for a compression test which I believe will confirm that the piston rings are worn and require replacement, I want to know what I am getting into. The car is great and very original - big black four door sedan straight 8 - excellent original interior - but I have been down the re-build path before with a '49 Dodge Special Deluxe Club Coup (Canadian) that I had for about twenty years. The machine shops that I dealt with back then were lousy here and outrageously expensive - maybe there are some better ones now- but I want the best at a fair price and I think that means that there is going to be some travel south of the border in my future where there is greater experience and selection. If any of my fellow Canadians or Winnipegers on this site know of a really good shop here then please let me know and accept my apology - it was well over 20 years ago that I am talking about. Otherwise I kindly ask my American cousins if they can recommend a really good shop in Minnesota, the Dakotas, or Wisconsin - or even farther afield. Some idea of the current cost of this operation or any other options would be greatly appreciated too!
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What do you put on the side of the car -
I’m sure this has been asked before but, what oil is everyone running. I’m in Northern California with a 201 Plymouth flathead/L Head.
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I owned a 1951 Dodge Crusader, with stock brake system.. Should I switch to DOT 5 brake oil, or stick with DOT3 spec oil,, with DOT5, you have to flush the brake system,, But do you have to replaced all rubber composants??
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I'm completing a total rebuild of the engine, but my problem has been coolant leaks. The two longer manifold studs leaked. One of the water pump bolts leaked. And one head bolt leaked. I've solved all those problems using aviation gasket maker but I have one more leak that has me more concerned than the others. I'm somehow getting coolant in the oil. When I cracked open the drain plug I got a stream of coolant, maybe an ounce or two, before I saw any oil drain out. So now I've taken the front of the engine apart again. I gave the welch plug another good smack with a 13/16 socket for good measure. From what I can tell the real problem is water getting past one of the timing cover bolts and soaking through the backing plate gasket. Initially I used aviation gasket maker on the timing cover bolts, but I did not smear it on the gasket. When I reassemble everything I WILL generously coat the gasket and smear the female bolt holes with AGM before I coat the bolts and insert them. Other than timing cover bolts and the front welch plug, is there any other way for coolant to get into the oil? Is Aviation Gasket Maker the best way to seal the threads or is there a better sealant? I think the hole next to the welch plug leaked.
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My oil filler tube isn't tightly seated in the block and I'm concerned it will fall out or leak or both. I'm thinking about using Aircraft sealant to seal it and hopefully make it stay in place, but that seems shaky. Has anyone else dealt with this? Is there a way to expand the bottom of the tube a little bit so it won't be so loose?
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What are you guys using in the presto-matic for fluid I tried tractor supply for Hydraulic Fluid with an ISO of 32 and nothing and 10 Weight Oil is non existing around here in Dairy Land
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From the album: 48 TS Documentation
This oil change sticker on the driver's side A pillar is from the dealer where the original purchase was made, matching the bill of sale. -
Have a 53 Hydrive that was running when i bought it 2 years ago, but kinda sat ever since. I finally fixed the issue that was the reason it sat so long and went to change all the oil out this weekend and hopefully start it back up and found two new issues. One is that the washer the PO used for the oil drain pan doesn't even have enough copper to make a penny, which is probably why the engine loved to leak oil. But because this thing is so jerry-rigged, i have no idea what size washer i need to replace it with. the thing i pulled out was a paper thin circle that's all kinds of bent up. Also, the PO went old school and cut the oil with kerosene. And its been sitting in there for the past 2 years. So I assume that my oil pan is going to be super clean. but do I need to worry about anything else being messed up now?
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Thanks for any guidance, Andy -
I'm wondering if there are any issues with me letting non detergent oil sit in my oil pan for the past 1 1/2 - 2 yrs while working on this car ? Prior to, I did remove the oil pan, cleaned out all the old black build up gunk inside, and re-installed the pan with new gaskets. Then filled with non detergent oil (didn't use detergent oil at that time since I had not yet pulled the valve covers and done the clean out thing up top),...now the cars been sitting for almost 2 years in the garage, up on jack stands, pretty much completely taken apart, no wiring harness, etc...while I've been building as weather permits, new floor pan, rockers, etc.. getting body panels shot in urethane, crawling all over and under this baby.... I wouldn't have thought that the non detergent oil would coke up in the pan just from sitting idle inside my garage, but I have zero experience with the old non detergent oils....the engine should be ready to fire up again by mid to late summer - should I be taking any measures, changing out, etc...while this car continues to try and make it's way back ? I did add a zinc additive to the non detergent oil.. Thank you all for your help Steve
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I now have about 1000 miles on my rebuilt engine. It has had 30w non-detergent oil since the rebuild. I plan to switch to 10w30 detergent oil before putting it to bed for the winter. I have searched the related topics but have not found the answer to a simple question. How well do I have to flush the engine, filter canister etc. of the non-detergent oil? Is there a problem if after the change there is a small amount of non-detergent mixed with the new oil? Will they mix?
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So I'm getting ready to get my P11 running and back on the road again, and I made the startling realization that I can't find where my oil filter should be? I've read a few different things about different options or styles of oil filter, but I would think regardless it would be in this spot, or is there some other method of filtration system that i might not be aware of? The only thing the service manual mentions about it: REPLACEMENT OF OIL FILTER. 1936-42-Install a new oil filter, or a new oil filter cartridge (if equipped with the replaceable cartridge type) every 8000 miles. In dusty areas, it may be advisable to change filter, or cartridge, at any time when the oil appears to be excessively dirty. Am I just missing the whole thing, or am I barking up the wrong tree here?
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I am interested to find out what motor oil you guys are putting in your Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Flathead P15-D24 engine and why. What's your favorite Brand of motor oil for your old Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Flathead 6 motor and why? Brand: SAE: Why: Thanks, LFT
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I thought I'd find this in the tech archives, or under resources, but can only find that it takes 5qt/4.7 litres oil... but not what type. Nice sale on for a 5 litre jug of Quaker State (40% off) 5w30, 10w30 and 5w20... was going to buy a couple of the 5w30 for my Chev Impala, thought I'd grab some for the '47 Dodge as well, since the oil has been in there probably 20-30yrs. Just not sure what kind it takes. Figured when comes time to fire it up and see if it turns over, probably best to have new oil/filter.
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I have a 6 passenger '46 Dodge Custom D24. I am looking for the Drive Axle Pinion Oil Seal for this car. It has a diameter of 3.09" I need the part number for that particular seal. I did purchase a seal last week but it was too large. Is there anywhere to get a list of part numbers for this particular model of Dodge? Or does anyone know where I can purchase this seal? Thank you My email is below: bobghd@aol.com
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Would anyone know which oil filter I would use on my 48 plymouth? I can't find a part number anywhere. It's the original 217 straight six. And any tip on which weight of oil to use? Thanks!
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I don't understand the mechanics of the oil pump. '51 dodge B3..218 engine. I have to fix a leak at the oil pump cover plate. So when I took the cover plate off, the outer rotor fell out. I see there is a slot grooved in the outside of the outer rotor, like a woodruff key might fit in there, but can't see inside the pump where it would engage with another slot. Does the outer rotor spin as the inner is spun with the camshaft? Or is the outer supposed to be fixed with the woodruff key and the inner spins inside it? I am so new to this thing. I don't understand the mechanics of it.
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ok, so i am working on this 41' dodge truck in the woods, as i have been for the last couple years, and NOTHING on the truck has moved but the doors for the last 30 years. i pulled the head to see how badly the cylinders were rusted (not very bad) and while i was at it, i dumped some 2-stroke oil in the cylinders in hopes it would help free it up. i checked the engine oil on the dipstick, and it looked like the normal 30-year-old oil looks, kind of brown and dirty. i came back about a month later to check on it and pull the head again to dump in some better lube, and checked the oil to see if any 2-stroke oil made it that far, but there was some milky white fluid towards the bottom that wasn't there before. it would make no sense to be water or antifreeze because neither mix with oil when just sitting and they would have just settled to the bottom. what could it be? the 2-stroke oil was blue, and the crankcase oil was still the same brown sitting on top. keep in mind, the motor was stuck, so nothing could have mixed.
