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PB50 is a bypass type filter - it has flow restriction built into it. If this setup is used with regular modern high flow oil filter, then external flow restrictor will be needed.

Modern oil filters are designed for unimpeded flow. In our engines, filter bypasses the engine's oiling system. Too much flow through the filter means low oil pressure and too little flow through the engine. If installation of external filter lowers the oil pressure, then flow through the filter should be restricted to bring the pressure back.

External oil filter mount You will have to improvise plumbing, flow restrictor, and attachment to engine. This thing uses readily available modern oil filters.

P2 engines did not use vibration damper - it was just crank pulley - bur it would be a good idea to replace the pulley with vibration damper from later model engines. Can your engine rev in neutral without vibration? If so, then the problem is elsewhere, e.g. bad propeller shaft.

These P2 cars are supposed to top out at 70+ mph in stock condition. Something is terribly wrong with your car. There are several things to look at. You could start with distributor. Re-packing distributor with grease may not be enough to solve its problems. Distributor has to be taken apart to make sure that centrifugal advance mechanism and base plate are moving freely, that governor weight springs have correct tension, and that vacuum pot is functioning. Shaft bushings and points must be replaced and points adjusted. Would also be a good idea to install new cap and rotor. Correct centrifugal and vacuum advance at various engine speeds should be checked according to factory shop manual. Engine will perform very poorly with bad distributor, so fix it and see if the problem goes away.

Exactly. What manual describes is using a piece of 0.0015 shim stock to gauge main bearing clearance. Nowadays we use plastigage for this purpose. As of manual, shims can be used to adjust a new main bearing cap.

Fascinating read. Old carbs were jetted for straight gasoline. It is not surprising they run lean with 10% ethanol. You might consider transistor ignition, which allows for stronger spark - wider plug gap and longer spark duration. Burning leaner mixture in modern engines critically depends on it. Original distributor can be used, with points triggering an electronic switch (a Darlington transistor) connected to coil's primary. A 6V coil designed for electronic ignition will be needed. A very simple setup. An additional advantage is complete elimination of points' erosion. Are you planning on using the original oil bath filter? These filters don't clean air as efficiently as modern paper filters, and are #1 cause of rapid wear of old time engines. There are paper filters that will dimensionally fit inside oil bath filter case, if original look is to be preserved.

Modern V-8 engine means complete resto-mod, leaving only body/frame and gutting out everything else. Once you say "A", you have to say B, C, D, etc., until you end up at Z. Modern engine will require all new powertrain and modern wheels. With modern wheels, you will need modern power steering, front disc brakes, and new suspension. Kiss goodbye to original dash with instrument cluster. To put otherwise, you will be in the open sea designing and building your all new Turboaddict brand automobile that has outward semblance to a '37 Plymouth touring sedan. For me, the task would be too intimidating, and the end result too unpredictable in terms of performance and safety. So, with my '37 Plymouth, I am taking a path much closer to original restoration, although not strictly original as viewed by the purists. Original powertrain, but with engine mods including 12V electric with alternator, transistorized ignition, electric radiator fan, modern carburetor, aluminum cylinder head, etc. Original rear end, but with taller gearing. Original suspension, but with new production leaf springs and modern shocks. Some folks do resto-mod because they are afraid of not being able to find original parts. Nothing could be further from truth - parts for these cars are still plentiful and surprisingly inexpensive, at least not more expensive than parts for modern cars - if you are a knowledgeable and patient shopper. And then there is poetry in the original restoration. The look and the feel. There is nothing like the feel of smoothness and torque of a Mopar flat six. Enjoyed your pictures. Eye candy.

Here is a link about using rubber-based printer's ink and press wash for woodgraining of 1933 Plymouth panels: 1933 Plymouth woodgraining I ordered the stuff (much more than is actually needed; cannot be ordered in small quantities). PM if interested.

When wheel hits a bump, shackle forces the bushing to turn. If rotation of this turning is in the direction of unscrewing the bushing out of the spring hole, the bushing could loosen up and come out of the spring hole after a series of bumps. With left hand thread, the action of shackle tightens the bushing.

It is the lower leg of the driver side shackle that has left hand thread. Left hand OEM shackle bushing has notches on its hex head to indicate this. Andy's new production bushing does not have these notches. When installing shackles, follow service manual procedure with 7/8 and 13/16 gauges.

The gasket in question is made by Fel-Pro. This is the only aftermarket head gasket brand that I would trust. BTW, unlike vintage McCord and Victor copper gaskets, Fel-Pro can be used with aluminum head.

This thing, called "juggle valve", is optional - some thermostats have it, others don't. It helps in burping the cooling system during fill-up, but doesn't provide any other benefit.

Andy Bernbaum, of course. Good selection and more reasonable prices.

Leather for convertible seats, but it has to be automotive grade leather with special UV-resistant finish, which is not cheap. Alternatively, there are protective finishes that can be applied on furniture-grade leather to make it more resistant.

There is no free lunch in carburetor setup. An improvement in air flow at high speed comes at the expense of transition performance (acceleration). Multiple carburetors make sense in a racing car, but not in a daily driver. Nowadays it would be weird to race the old Mopars.

Nice video, but seems like the guy is not quite an expert in Mopar flat six engines. Things like what engine is that, "double roller chain", Silvolite pistons being original, "egg-shaped pistons", hardened exhaust valve seats, sharp edge of crank's thrust flange...

It is not a starter/battery problem. Engine is easier to turn when hot than when cold. The problem could be something that malfunctions upon warming-up, like ignition coil or vapor lock in the fuel system.

Spray-on Liquid Rubber?

Vibrators are PITA. Replace vibrator with modern DC-DC converter.

In the worst case, broken stud can be ground flush with surface, center punched, and stud drilled out with an inner thread diameter bit. Spiral stud remains then can be removed with sharp pick and thread chased with a proper tap.

Earl retired last year. However, he arranged for his performance parts business to be taken over by Mopar Montana: https://www.moparmontana.com/

This can be easily checked with a $20 endoscope.

From the way speedometer works, the problem of low indication is not in the cable or drive gear. These things are rigidly coupled to transmission, and they either rotate at the right speed, or don't rotate at all. Lack of lubrication in these parts may cause grinding sounds and premature wear, but not low indication. The problem lies in the magnetic coupler. As permanent magnets become weak, coupling decreases and indication becomes incorrect. Old time magnetic couplers used steel magnets. These magnets lose their magnetization faster than any other type. The only way to radically fix this issue is to take the coupler apart and either replace or re-magnetize the magnets.

Of course it is a matter of choice. Some folks will not even use a bolt without DPCD stamped on it. Others keep only body shell, stuff it with everything modern, and paint it in candy color. Flat six can perform to modern standards with increased compression, better carb, and modern ignition. I do not mean racing, just normal driving.