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I tin plug's edge using soldering iron. Tin layer makes tight seal upon installation.

I use this trick on all my clutch jobs in any kind of car. Not only makes transmission installation easy and predictable, but saves you from injured shoulder cuff rotators. Don't ask me how i know.

The babbitt-layered design of old Mopar bearing shells is by no means obsolete. Such bearings are still produced nowadays, alongside with other designs, particularly aluminum-silicon- and aluminum-tin-layered bearings. Babbitt has its advantages and disadvantages compared to aluminum, as described here: Bearing materials Particularly, babbitt has superior capacity to hold oil on its surface, and superior resistance to galling. On the downside, the babbit layer must be very thin, and once this layer is worn down, all the advantages are gone. I don't see any reason why NOS bearing shells from reputable manufacturers should be inferior to today's shells

Yeah it does. Odd and even rods are different. Thanks for the video!

As we know, the Airflow wasn't commercial success. However, it influenced design of few cars from other manufacturers, most notably Toyota AA and Volvo P36 Carioca. Yet another influence was 1938 Opel Admiral. It used waterfall radiator grill, integrated oval headlights, and two-piece windshield. It is clear that designers, while being inspired by the Airflow, tried to overcome its clumsiness by moderating Airflow's radical design features. Radiator grille to hood transition is more conventional, and headlights are positioned higher. Unlike the Airflow, the Admiral had standard body-on-frame construction. It was produced for only one year - due to misfortune of sharing its 6 cylinder engine with Opel truck. 1938 was the year WW2 started.

My Earl's head uses longer reach plug.

Good NOS points have insulator cam made of so called Textolite - layers of fabric hot pressed with phenolic filler. Fabric texture is quite apparent in this material. This is the same material that was used in Chevy and Ford cam gears. Textolite won't shatter and is quite wear-proof. Later development was plastic without fabric reinforcement, which is not so strong, especially after 50+ years of storage. Speaking of capacitor, I wouldn't trust any 50 year old capacitor - they deteriorate with time . Modern mylar capacitors are the way to go. They are 1/4 size of old paper capacitors of the same value and voltage rating. Use 0.22 uF axial capacitor with at least 400 VDC rating

Ideally, you need a professional walking foot upholstery machine with big motor, clutch, and oil pump, like Singer or Pfaff. But they are expensive and bulky. For occasional upholstery work, antique electric Singer 66 may be suitable, with a few mods like more powerful motor, reduced drive ratio, and roller foot. These machines are very basic (just forward and reverse lock stitch), and robust. With right needle, Singer 66 can stitch 4-5 layers of leather. Takes some practice to learn, but not too difficult.

I regard working on upholstery as part of the hobby, like working on engine, body, or paint. Sewing is fun, and is not too difficult to learn. Right equipment is the key. Professional walking foot upholstery machines are unfortunately pricey, but classics like Singer 66 can be had for about $50, and, with few modification, they are suitable for occasional upholstery tasks. There are excellent youtube tutorials on various aspects car upholstery.

Weak shoe return springs? Air not completely removed from the system?

Another scene from this movie: the same car wins demolition derby: 39 Dodge demolition derby

That time (70s) it was just a clunker fit for demolition derby.

That's right. Water pump grease doesn't get into water under normal operation. But pump must be greased every 2,000 miles using grease gun. Under pressure, old grease has to go somewhere, and that somewhere is water jacket. This is what makes that greasy substance found while cleaning old blocks.

All grease used to lubricate old style water pump ends up in block's water jacket. Even if I had to replace sealed bearing pump every year, I would do it for this reason alone.

OEM '35-39 rear spring rear shackles are screw type U-shape with grease fittings. OEM springs used with these shackles have corresponding threads. Later bracket style shackles do not have threads or grease fittings, they have rubber bushings instead. OEM shackle Later style shackle

No personal experience with these guys, but their price is good. Springs come with silent blocks and require later model rear shackles. Plymouth rear springs

Wish I had a grandchild like yours. When my daughter needed a car, I offered to buy it for her and even help with insurance and maintenance, but under condition that it would be a stick shift. Incentive of a free car was strong enough, and she ended up in passing her driver's exam in that stick shift. She is now enthusiastic driver, and expressed gratitude to me for teaching her how to stick.

But apparently it doesn't spring back to its original correct position. This could happen if, for example, vacuum pot is stuck in the middle. You should use shop manual procedures to check the distributor. Twist and spring back is not a recommended test.

Centrifugal and/or vacuum advance mechanisms might have seized or malfunctioning otherwise, which would cause distributor cam to get stuck in a wrong position. You probably need to rebuild your distributor.

Yes. When door is off the body, pin can be driven out easily. Pin wear may form a ridge that makes it difficult to drive out the pin when door weight is pushing on the hinge sideways.

Posting a few hinge pictures, as promised.

High reciprocating mass (pistons and upper parts of connecting rods) combined with long stroke. These conditions create high inertial forces that put strain on rod bearings. Forces at rod bearings are proportionate to square of rotational speed, so at 4,000 rpm the load on rod bearings is 4 times that at 2,000 rpm. Excessive force squeezes out oil film, leading to bearing failure. Modern engines can run at higher speeds because they use lighter pistons and rods, and because they are generally short stroke.

Worm is same 1940-48.

I have shitloads of NOS 6AQ5 tubes and can send you a matched pair for free, PM me. DC-DC converter should be 6V input 250V @ 50-100 mA DC output. Converter replaces the whole power supply, so no need for vibrator, power transformer, and 6X4 rectifier. I guess your $30 thing is electronic vibrator, that will still require T2 and rectifier. NOS 6X4 tubes worth about $5 apiece, don't pay too much for it.