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Two carb setup is for increased performance at wide open throttle, at the expense of throttle response and performance at partially open throttle. Wider carburettor bore = lower air speed = worse fuel pulverization = worse response and worse performance at lower engine speeds. However, as engine speed increases, air speed increases, and performance improves. Narrower carburettor bore = higher air speed at low rpm = better pulverizatiobn = better response and better performance at low er engine speeds. However, as engine speed increases, narrow bore chokes the engine, and performance degrades. An optimal carburettor design is a compromise between these two opposing tendencies. Two-barrel carburettors offer optimal performance at both low and high engine speed. The second barrel remains closed at lower speeds, so that engine sees a carb with narrow bore. At high speeds, second barrell opens, making an equivalent of wider carburettor bore. (Flame suit on)

The only mention of aviation use that I could find was that the engine was equipped with reduction gear mounted in bell housing. Since standard unleaded aviation gasoline in Russia had octane rating of 70, and lead could bring it to 100 and beyond, it is not unreasonable to speculate 120-130 hp potential output. Also, better oils with anti-friction additives were available, exclusively for aviation. Motor resource of less than 100 hours was quite acceptable in aircraft applications. The only Russian fuel injection engines of the time that I know about were twin row radials in the La-5 fighter plane. All Russian D5 engines were carburated. Russian D5 engines were not equipped with Carter or Stromberg carburettors. Lipgart decided to save money on carburettor license. Earlier production engines were equipped with twin Ford model A carbs (another hotrodding that wasn't). Later engines had single K-23 carburetor, which was a Russian design similar to Carter. In the 50s, they developed a twin-barrel carburettor for this engine.

They won't fit due to extra studs. You can watch the video.

Re-engineering was necessity rather than whim. The design needed adaptation to harsh Russian realities - lower quality materials, somewhat sloppy workmanship, and bad roads. For example, prevailing grade of gasoline at the time was 56, so aluminum head was not for hotrodding, but rather for avoiding degraded performance. Here is a link to youtube video showing disassembly of Russian D5. They speak Russian, but it is pretty much self-explanatory. Russian D5 disassembly

It might be of interest to the forum members that the D5 engine had a tremendous impact on Russian automotive industry. By 1937, the Ford A engine licensed from US by Russia exhausted its upgrading potential and became sorely inadequate. A new, more powerful engine was necessary. Russian engineers were not up to the task of quickly developing a 6-cylinder engine of their own, so a decision was taken to identify the best American engine of the time and license it. A team of experts headed by Andrew Lipgart, Chief Engineer of Gorky Auto Works (GAZ), determined that D5 fitted the bill. A license was purchased from Chrysler, alongside with key production equipment, and preparations started at GAZ for mass production. Actual production did not start right away. First, the whole design was changed to metric system. Second, few changes were made. One was helical gear drive instead of chain and sprockets for camshaft, which made it necessary to re-design the camshaft. As a result of changing bore and stroke, engine displacement somewhat decreased. The first serial engines produced in 1939 were installed in M1, the only mass-produced pre-war Russian passenger car. The first Russian D5 engines had a number of problems. Head studs had inadequate strength, which was remedied by adding more studs. Russian cast iron of the block was of inferior quality to American, causing excessive upper cylinder wear. This was fixed by using partial cylinder sleeves made of higher quality metal, spanning the top two inches of the cylinder bore. Babbitt main and rod bearings were not up to the task, and were replaced with bi-metal bearings. Due to inadequate lubrication (bad oil), rod bearings tended to spin during sustained high speed driving. The solution was limiting engine rpm with a sophisticated tamper-proof throttle design. Excessive dust of Russian roads accelerated wear, which necessitated using full flow crude oil filter in addition to bypass cartridge filter. Phenolic cam gear was getting lose on its hub. Eventually all the teething problems were solved, and the engine turned out powerful, economical, and reliable. Interestingly, most Russian D5 engines were equipped with aluminum heads; small number of cast iron head engines were also made. Marine and aviation(!) versions were being tested, but the war interrupted this work. On the outbreak of war in 1941 all D5 engines were diverted to use in light tanks such as T60, T70, and self-propelled gun SU-76. The total of over 50,000 engines were delivered for these purposes in 1941-45. After the war the main use of Russian D5 was in GAZ-51 2.5 ton trucks. 3.5 million of these trucks were made during 1946-75. D5 was also used in the luxury government sedan ZIM. A mass passenger car of 50s, GAZ M20 Pobeda (Victory) used the 4-cylinder chopped version of D5. The total of 236,000 were produced. D5 was also used on large scale in loaders, air compressors, welders, and as marine engine.

Longevity of original exhausts puzzles me. In most today's cars, original exhausts are made of stainless. These exhausts may last 10-15 years. Aftermarket exhausts made of aluminized steel don't last more than 2-3 years. In my '37 Plymouth, the original exhaust pipes are still usable. They are not stainless. I guess metallurgists of old times new something about their craft.

And this makes things even more confusing. Mopar numbers 602539: 33-34 201 engine. 620032, 637175, 1064733: engines without internal coolant bypass only. 1117542, 1326318, 1401345; universal, fits engines with or without internal bypass. McCord numbers Mc6290: 33-34 201 engine. Mc6213: 35-48 engines, gaskets with this number may have or not have the hole for internal bypass, so need to watch. Victor numbers V-906: 35-48 engines, special design for aluminum head. V-924: 35-48 engines; gaskets with this number may have or not have the hole for internal bypass, so need to watch. V-1059C: Universal gasket, modern. May be of Fel-Pro origin. Fitzgerald 0550C: universal gasket. Fel-Pro 7564C: universal gasket, modern.

This is a universal gasket that fits 201, 218, and 230 engines. Heads and blocks of these engines are different, hence some mismatch.

Thanks for your replies, guys. As Don recommended, I inquired with Earl Edgerton (Edgy), and this is what he answered: I use a felpro gasket. Also, Best Gasket makes a good one. I recommend spraying both sides with coppercoat. Initially torque the heat to 60lbs. Start the engine up to operating temp. The next day when it's cold re torque to 60lbs. You should be good to go. Also Head studs are better than head bolts. Earl I looked up for the availability and price of these gaskets. Fel-Pro gasket set (including manifold and valve cover gaskets) is 7564C, and it is available from Auto Zone for $35.99. Best Gasket thing is available from Andy Bernbaum for $39.50. I can add to this that I had only positive experience with Fel-Pro gaskets, and trust this brand. It would be a good idea to use all new studs. Hardened steel washers under head nuts is a must for aluminum heads.

I am considering an aluminum head for my flat six, but have concerns about what kind of gasket should go under it. I have seen head gaskets on eBay for Mopar engines that were stamped "for aluminum head only". This raises the question - is special gasket necessary, or just regular Mopar copper gasket is OK? I know from experience with other engines that gaskets for aluminum head are critical, and non-OEM gaskets are prone to failures. This is because aluminum has much higher thermal expansion than cast iron of the block, and the gasket must hold under repeated thermal movement of engine's heating/cooling cycles. Those of you who installed aluminum heads, what gaskets are you using?

Here is what I used for under dash air ducting in my '37 Plymouth: Air ducting This material is corrugated aluminum reinforced with spiral wire and sheathed in plastic. 30 mm diameter fitted the outlets of my air blower, but other diameters are also available.

"they were made in China" What is not made in China these days? These aluminum radiators are available for almost any car, and come under different names, or no name. They are hand-welded and look good. There are rumors that standard radiator caps sometimes do not fit tight, but this was not a problem with the one that I have used in one of my cars (not Mopar) for over 3 years. Aluminum radiators, no matter who makes them, will corrode if plain water is used as coolant. It should be at least 30% antifreeze. All current production antifreezes have corrosion inhibitors for aluminum. I just bought one of these radiators for my '37 Plymouth for $124. Not exact fit, but custom fitting shouldn't be a problem.

Just buy another heater. There were many aftermarket models from different manufacturers. They go on e-Bay for $80-100.

Andy Bernbaum or Restoration Specialties for all kinds of window rubber. Engine degreaser spray for engine bay cleaning. Spray on, soak for a few minutes, rub stubborn places with nylon brush, and hose with water. Gunk is the most common brand name, but there are others.

The purpose of the check valve in MC is to prevent brake fluid gravity seepage during brake bleeding. Otherwise, it does not participate in any way in brake operation. Source: War Department Technical Manual TM 9-1827C, Hydraulic Brakes (Wagner-Lockheed), p.17. http://www.easy39th.com/files/TM_9-1827C_Hydraulic_Brakes_(Wagner_Lockheed)_1944.pdf

Because you will need to remove the flywheel, transmission and clutch have to come out.

60-80 psi on cold engine doesn't sound bad. Compression is actually measured on HOT engine, and it is likely that hot compression will be higher. You need to ascertain that compression is within plus or minus 10 psi in all cylinders. High oil pressure means that main. rod, and cam bearings are all in good shape. Rough idle is an issue of tune-up rather than engine wear. It could be due to vacuum leaks, ignition problems, or your rpm too low. 500 rpm is on the lower side. I wouldn't try to fix what isn't broken.

Rubber bores This is a set of laboratory bores for rubber stoppers. Very useful in fabricating all kinds of rubber parts with holes, like firewall grommets or body mounts.

Shimming was a factory-recommended procedure when original main bearing caps were to be replaced for some reason. But those were shims at cap mating surface, not under bearing shell. A shim under shell is a no-no, definitely not something that was factory-installed. You will need to assemble caps without shells, applying specified torque, and then check for out-of-roundness before installing new shells.

I've spent 4 days in the Hague in 1991. Was my first trip abroad, have very fond memories of it. It was a meeting in Congressgebouw.

Dan: Ideally, head should be removed so that you could scrape rust deposits at the bottom of water jacket with a long screwdriver. That would make cleaning much faster. But if the engine is running well and you are not going to rebuild it at this time, it doesn't make sense to open it just for cleaning. Vinegar will eventually dissolve all the rust. Pour it in, soak for 24 hours, drain, and repeat until stuff comes out clear. Vinegar can be bought cheaply by gallon in places like Sam's Club, Costco, or Winco. Flush with water after you are done with vinegar.

Flushing will remove loose stuff, but not crust or accumulated deposits at the bottom of water jacket. You may try vinegar (5% acetic acid), which dissolves rust. Vinegar works slow, and you may need to change it several times until all the rust is dissolved.

To the OP question of what kind of stain can be used to check drum-shoe contact, I think chalk can be used on shoe linings. It may help finding and filing down high spots, the same way as old time machinists fitted babbit bearings. Could be a poor man's substitute for arching on Ammco machine. Chalk can be easily brushed off and won't hurt the linings. Prussian Blue is no-no, its oil base will soak into linings material. BTW, this coming weekend I am picking up a free Ammco shoe arching and liner riveting machine. A floor model. When I set it up, members nearby are welcome to come and use it. I am in central Cali.

Compatible filter cartridges: Mopar 1121694, superseded by 1821552; L-70. Allis-Chalmers 4734248, 4984237. Fram C-134A, C134PL. Case 08926-AS Hercules 47247-BS Jeep 645638 Massey-Ferguson 10142:9-M92 Hastings 316 Purolator P-70FF Wix PC-80-N, PC-80-NP Delco P-316, PF-316 LPM L-134 Yale and Towne 282K-90 Towmotor 5283 Clark 857171 Kleenite 2-4029 This list is incomplete. Check eBay regularly, there are good deals. I recently bought 3 cartridges for $7 apiece.