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The circuit is the last stage of power amplifier/phase splitter + power supply. In addition to capacitors, which should be all replaced regardless of whether they test good or not, the power supply vibrator unit is one component particularly prone to failure. Check high voltage (should be about 250V under load) to make sure PSU is working. Bad vibrator sometimes can be fixed by opening it and cleaning contacts. BTW, it would be a good idea to replace the vibrator PSU with a modern solid state DC-DC converter All tubes in this unit are still cheap and plentiful. 6AQ5 tubes have to be matched for equal current through primary halves of the output transformer, so buy a matched pair if you need replacement. To your question, vibrator is a buzzer that switches 6V DC through the primary halves of the power transformer T2. Upper contact on the diagram connects 6V to the upper winding half, and lower contact to the lower half. This sends short pulses of 6V opposite polarity through primary halves. The secondary winding of T2 raises the pulsating voltage to 2x250V.

Rubber parts can be easily made too out of sheet rubber and rubber tubing. Doesn't have to be exact replica, it is just rubber cushion.

Interesting... I relied on my 37-54 parts book, which covers passenger cars, including V8. Looking closely, it covers C45, but not C46. Thanks for the information!

This needs clarification. There's no way coolant can flow through radiator without flowing through head. Is overheating your problem? Earl recommended Fel-Pro gasket with his head. Regular Mopar copper gaskets may not work well with aluminum head, unless they were purposely designed for such use. I also noticed you did not use washers under head bolts. Hard steel washers are must with aluminum head, otherwise you won't get proper torquing.

Then it is SKF18880, universal for all 37-54 with exception of some 51-54 De Soto and Chrysler.

... between unreasonably expensive and outrageously expensive.

SKF 22610, $13.22 on Rock Auto. Better modern alternative to NOS leather seals.

That's what they used to do tuning up performance engines. I remember seeing Lucas catalog offering a variety of weights and springs for the same model of distributor. They claimed that any kind of advance characteristic can be created using a combination of weights and springs.

The two springs are unequal. Weaker spring engages first to provide steeper advance at lower engine speeds under condition of lean mixture. Stronger spring engages afterwards for shallower advance at higher engine speeds. Lean mixture burns slower than rich one and requires more advance. On the centrifugal advance graph, red is initial (fast) advance at lower speeds, blue is advance at higher speeds (slow), and green (no further advance) is when the mechanism maxes out.

Nick - if it cannot be saved, this is what restorers do to get the original look (or close): 1. There are shops that can paint wood grain on your panels. A good shop has patterns for different makes and years and does pretty close reproduction. These services are expensive (hundreds of dollars). 2. You can try woodgraining yourself using typographer's rubber ink. This technique allows as many trials and errors as you need to achieve acceptable result. 3. There are vinyl wood grain veneers with adhesive backing that can be applied over curved surfaces.

I was asking because in two P4 engines that I took apart there was hardly any sign of sprocket or chain wear. Chains in Mopar flathead six engines are so massive and overbuilt compared to what is being used in modern engines! Shop manual describes checking procedure for valve timing, which accounts for combined wear in camshaft and timing gear. I believe that if valve timing is correct, replacing timing gear is waste of money.

Knuckleharley - a question for you. Is it common for timing gear to wear so bad as to need replacement?

No magic, but you can use an inconspicuous exposed area to try different solvents and paint strippers. Look for something that would not ruin the original paint, and then try it on overpainted spot. Along with Home Depot paint strippers, try mineral spirits, acetone, carbon tetrachloride. Quicklime or caustic soda work well on a variety of paints.

Agree, it looks fantastic! Thenks for information about Flood penetrol.

Rear wheel cylinders are 635545 right side and 635546 left side. Corresponding Wagner-Lockheed numbers are FC-3597 and FC-3598. Front pistons are 1 1/8" and rear 1 1/4" diameter.

Where would you get compressed air?

You checked the thermostat and it opens at the right temperature, so thermostat is ok. Are top and bottom radiator hoses getting hot when temperature gauge shows overheating? If the top hose and top of the radiator are not scalding hot, there is flow restriction somewhere. It could be in radiator core, or in the engine. Engine obstruction could be due to clogged passages between block and cylinder head. This may happen if head gasket is graphite style and engine overheated previously. When graphite stuff is compressed, it may extrude and block coolant passages.

1 - almost zero. 2 - you will have to replace chain and possibly sprockets.

Mopar or NORS seals appear regularly on ebay, but much better option is a modern seal, SKF18880. 10 bucks on Rock Auto. Mopar part ## 663062 or 1271104.

Yes, Alsa Chrome is so expensive that I would just do the real thing and not worry about how long it will last. As to how much work goes into polishing, the same stands true for classical chrome. Chrome just provides protective layer, all beautiful sheen comes from quality polishing work. DIY chrome plating is feasible - the process have been described in much detail and bath recipes are available, but there are two chemicals that are difficult to procure - cyanide and chromic anhydride. Electroless nickel gives appearance of chrome, and Caswell sells kits, alas, also too expensive. I have done steel or aluminum polishing like you describe, and it indeed looks great. I used clear nitrocellulose lacquer for protection. Nitrocellulose sticks well to bare metal and is quite durable. But it has to be completely colorless. Yellow tint in lacquer makes metal look like nickel, not like chrome. Protecting oil sounds interesting. I looked for Flood oil paint infuser as you suggested. My search turned a lot of Flood paint additives, but I am not sure which was the one you used. Could you provide a link to the product?

That means something is wrong with the distributor. Take it apart and check condition of centrifugal governor. Weights should move freely on their pivots, pivots properly lubricated, and weight springs in good condition. Check vacuum pot for tightness, complete return, and operation under vacuum. Replace shaft bushings if shaft free play is beyond specs. With distributor in place, spark advance at different engine speeds and different vacuum settings should be as described in shop manual.

Clutch hot = clutch slipping. Gear grind = clutch not releasing completely or grabbing. Slipping could be due to worn friction disk, poor quality friction material, weak springs, or oil on friction surfaces. Slipping clutch deteriorates very quickly. Not releasing completely could be pedal out of adjustment due to disk wear, or warped disk.

Air filter from '92 Hyundai Elantra fits nice into the stock can. They are on sale now at Rock Auto for $3 apiece.

I removed doors from a donor car ('37 P4 4 door sedan) a while ago, by unscrewing hinges from the body. Each hinge is attached to body by 4 Philips screws. These screws go into 1/4 thick rectangular plate with 4 threaded holes. This plate is floating - after the screws are removed, the plate can be taken out from the other side. This arrangement allows for door adjustment. I tried to remove hinge pin by knocking on it from below, but the pin didn't move, so I left it alone. I did not remove hinges from the doors. Do not attempt removing hinges with hand screwdriver - you will gouge the screws. Impact driver with a sturdy Philips bit is necessary. Also, a lot of PB Blaster and heating with a propane torch. 13 screws yielded and 3 broke off. My car is in my country house. Hopefully, I am going there this weekend and will take a few pictures.

I suspect new production friction disks. All these disks come from the same Chinese factory, no matter who is selling them. Everything points to it - disc warped from the start, shudder and wear rapidly progress, and seemingly no problems elsewhere. I would try a NOS disc, or old one re-lined with NOS friction pads. Or, even better, whole NOS clutch assembly. Of course flywheel, crank pilot bushing, levers, and alignment must be parts of clutch job, as of shop manual.