Los_Control

I am needing to do the same as you, I thought about replacing and going with something else ... I dunno, like the bullet connectors and original switches. That said, I was thinking about just cutting the wire a inch or so from the bullet, then splicenew wire soldered and shrink tube. I dunno, kinda seems mickey mouse, same time I believe the old wire is good, just the cloth that fell off. I have not done this yet, but soon thinking a practice piece and see how it goes.

any direction you go, you will need to fabricate a bracket to hold the calipers . So you want to get he brackets from people that know what is going on. Experience from those that failed .... The advice is worth more then price of admission . Just saying, with the brackets from rusty hope, you get a list of dodge rotors, ford calipers, and various years of bearings and seals to make it all work. I simply cant send you the info when someone has worked years to acquire it. Lot of work went into this in the past. Something to remember, ol Rusty is a active member on this forum .... I need his help and not throwing him under the bus to others.

my point is, you can make it work on your own, the rusty hope kit is so cheap and just selling info and a bracket .... well worth the price

all these people have done research and have options for the user to use. So ask yourself, what advice you would like to pay for .... 16" wheels mean a larger rotor for larger brakes. Can it be done with smaller brakes and 15" wheels .... of course Will I tell you what needs to be purchased to make 15" wheels work ...... Rusty hope figured that out and made a working package. You can go out and figure it out on your own, ol rusty spent years on this to help you. But there are scarebird and others to help you .... is your choice .

sad to see these yards go away, today is rare you even find one as most went away 20 years ago

yeah that was my first thought also, and what I originally told the gentleman that has it. Then thought maybe I would ask and get a second opinion, maybe talk me into it. What bothers me the most while thinking about it...... if I had a T-5, I could downshift from 5th > 4th at highway speeds. What do you do with a 3 speed at highway speeds, and run into a hill and need to down shift? Could simply be creating a traffic accident waiting to happen.

90% of my driving will be in town, under 35mph and no more then 10 blocks in any direction. (small town) But would like to be able to drive highway speeds and drive to nearby towns, 30 miles either direction. Sadly the two lane to the next town with a wal mart, the speed limit is 75mph ... is a backway where speed limit is 55 and probably way I would go. I thank you for your input, I better go ahead and pickup that rear end to have it available

I have a chance to get a really nice dana 35 from a 94 jeep, for the correct price .... but it has 3:07 gear ratio. I told the guy thanks, but no thanks .... does anyone think a 3:07 would work behind a stock 218/3 speed? Or send it down the road the right thing? Probably going to end up in the scrap yard now.

Look further down the tape and you will see it repeated every 19+ inches, always at some imprecise measurement, not really a multiple of 3/16 of an inch. Finally when you get to 8 feet it is dead on. In fact if you divide 96 inches by 5 you will get 19.2 inches, a decimal measurement on a fractions tape. These marks are for laying out 5 engineered flooring trusses per 8 feet, like those wooden I beams. Floors are usually laid out on the 8 foot run -- 24 inch centers will give you 4 spans in 8 feet -- but engineered floor truses are lighter and less expensive than solid wood, but require one more support in that 8 foot span, giving 5 spans in 8 feet. That means that you have to install floor trusses on 19.2" centers -- which is exactly what those diamond marks are for. I very seldom work with engineered trusses, and my whole working career never used the diamonds.

What concerns me, what color shag carpeting you going with? I kinda have a issue with green, you go brown and I am good. orange and we need to talk

Sure hoping I have some good luck here, I just bought a truck which original owner had died and executor of estate sold it with lost title .... to a different guy 3 years ago .... I was bound and determined to help this guy get his chevy truck licensed and insured, so he's not walking, is a double amputee with little income. So I bought the little dodge dakota that needs work and no title, may have been cheaper to just give him the money for registration & insurance. Wish me luck on the title, at least it is a Dakota and may be worth using for a frame swap some day.

Which switches? I have found the headlight and panel light switches to be serviceable, you can take them apart, clean and grease them. This is on my 48-50 pilothouse truck, not sure if your wagon is the same.

The good ol days, got to love that time period. Back then Boys were Boys and Girls were Girls. Today you just never know what you're going to get ? With the different quality of plugs today, getting up to 100k miles on them, we do have choices. And I have in the past always went with a autolite because of failed champions, I also liked NGK .... but never ran them in a flathead, I do not think the engine matters as much as the quality of the plug. I went to my local parts house, champions were all they had so I bought them. Couple weeks later while in a neighboring town, I got a set of the AC-Delco iridium? or is it platinum? Not sure, but good for 100k miles, and just not that expensive for a 6 cylinder. Of course my truck has never left the driveway yet, these plugs may last a life time.

Issues with not installing as the manual describes. I pulled my distributor out for maintenance, because whoever before me did not install the oil pump as it should be, my wires are one turn counter clockwise on the cap, then what they should be. Maybe not a big deal to some, but when you go in reading the manual and end up having to guess at spark plug wires to get it to run .... gets frustrating . If you do not follow the manual, you will be doing the same to get it running.

Honestly, I approve of all these fixes, not sure what everybody worked up about? Ok I add that my 1949 B1C has a B1B front axle under it, you need 2 different spare tires, one for front and one for rear ... and has a 1937 218 engine .... they used what was available

I too have those nights, often caused by pain ... for example when I need to mow the grass, I wont sleep that night as my legs throb with pain. I get over it. And looking at the work you have been doing on your project the last few days, would not be surprised if you feeling a lil pain yourself ....

Can we get a mod to ban this guy? His enthusiasm is making us all look bad Amazing how you are out there working and getting it did. Kinda dropped below 60 degrees here and I been inside hibernating. GO GO GO!

Something I really need to consider. Many know I started with Molly my 49 B1C, Then moved 1800 miles away, now Molly is sitting at my Uncles place. I bought another 1949 B1B .... Just cost to move Molly 1800 miles is starting to ramp up, I need the spare parts, if I had Molly here I could make a second truck. I know that I can not sell the parts in the current condition and expect to get rich. For the price of gas money I could buy another parts truck local. Yet I have a bunch of spare parts stored over there, a rebuilt 218 engine, a brand new gas tank / sending unit from tanksrus in a box, a new engine gasket set ... I have a 52 parts truck sitting there that is partially stripped, I gave it away already, but yet to be picked up ... I have the radiator, heater gauges already stored away ..... I have a lot of extra parts. I have no choice I have to drive 1800 miles one way to pick them up and drive them another 1800 miles to get them home ...... sometimes wish could just turn a blind eye and buy new stock local

small block tree fifty

wonders what a 60's radio back there would look like

I use a computer and of course monitor in the garage, the thin flat screen monitors would be same as a tv. I brought my screen in as not in the garage so much right now. I have stored flat screen monitors in the shed before, and if you bring them in and let them warm up before you turn them on, they are fine. I also have brought them in and not let them warm up, turn one on and it started to work for about 20 seconds and then it fried. imho, is fine to leave them in the garage, just do not turn them on if near freezing temps.

yeah this is true, but in the past you could be walking across the grocery store parking lot, and hear a mopar 5 rows away starting up!

Loose connections is the main cause of any sparks. Aluminum wiring inside of homes was common in the 70's, the heat and expansion contraction caused too many loose connections. As main wiring from the service poles to the house, still used today and not a issue. Anytime you get a loose connection, you going to get sparks and later fire if you get enough sparks. If no sparks, you would get wires overheating until threw a breaker. I once plugged in a 100' extension cord, tossed the end over by the tile saw. The end of the cord fell directly into a 5 gallon bucket of water ... never popped a breaker, and was a very dangerous situation if handled wrong. I do not claim to be a expert on electricity, if you are seeing sparks there is a serious issue and usually a loose connection. What causes the loose connection can vary. How you deal with the loose connection can save your life.

That is great success, I also hope to return part time to work. Really is a one day at a time and just keep pushing to get there .... Congratulations on the rewards for your efforts.

just to add to this, also some will take the battery and roll it down a hill. Corrosion builds up between the plates, rolling it down the hill will knock the crap loose, then drain, clean & refill