Los_Control

vulcanizing is a rubber process, do you mean apply the rubber material on top? Not familiar with these cars but have seen some that appear to have a rubber mat on them. Just seems like a whole different question then buying new running boards, so I may be wrong.

Seems that would be your answer, get them repaired and be better then any re-pops available.

I have to admit that I have no real plan myself today. I am 58 years old and while I have a bad back, I am pretty healthy and take care of myself .... but we never know when the day will come. While on the other hand, my wife is 60, she refuses to take care of herself, copd, diabetes, high blood pressure, over weight, taking 9 different medications daily .... If I go first, all goes to wife and will help prepare if have time, then later will go to her 2 sons when she is gone. If she goes first, I would probably set something up with a local charity to take over when I am gone. I already know her sons would not be interested in anything we own. We do not talk now, we would not talk after their mother passes. If I live to be 80, then 22 years is a lot of time for things to change ... not getting excited about preparations just yet.

My habits are to change my oil, when finished I pour gasoline in the drain pan and use the dirty oily rag to wash it out. Past week or two been using a lot of lacquer thinner. still 1 rag at a time, and it does dissipate pretty quickly. I just treat all rags as a potential fire hazard, probably a good habit to get into. When was younger and worked in tire retread shops, we used several different solvents, glues, chemicals ... By code we had to have a fire proof can to store dirty rags in for cleaners to pickup. Since I do not have a fire proof can to store them, why I set them outside in a safe spot ... even if they did catch fire would not hurt anything.

Rags do scare me, I put all my old rags outside as I get them oily. is only 1 or 2 at a time. I let them air dry in the sun for several days, .then dispose of them.

I just wanted to add. I waited a few days while life got in the way. And tried sanding again and worked perfect. I needed to allow it more cure time then 18 hours. While in the back of my mind, I was thinking about flash times and windows to apply a second coat etc ... First time paint jobs are fun. You can see in photo what am using the primer for. Filling low spots. I know this photo looks bad ... I accept that. And I am moving forward. Is rust scale ... just years of rust layers building up on top of solid metal in the West Texas sun. I have tried every way I have to remove it, I can not. I suspect sandblast is only way, not going to happen any year soon. The white is acid where the rust has all been treated and ready for paint. It has had ospho on it, it has phosphoric at one time and muriatic first time. Ospho you put on, let it dry and is ready to paint over. I either move forward and paint it as is, my only goal is to make a daily driver and maybe a 20 footer, that would be fine. Haul lumber materials and groceries. Will never be for sale unless I no longer drive. I could just park it in the sun and get the patina affect. Or I could just give up and park it out back and forget about it. I figure 80% of paint will be fine, and the other 20% deal with it as it comes back to bite me.

This thread is perfect for those that are satisfied with PB and to step up and say which selection they chose. Crickets ....

Thats what I would do .... still a mystery to what or how the material got in there ... I personally was thinking mice but dismissed that because of the space available ... never thought about ants. Would not surprise me.

Years ago I posted a photo from photobucket on a forum. Some troll was able to use the link from that photo and post the whole album. The goal was to embarrass me, by posting this photo of me ... I just laughed at that. They also posted photos of my family and saying untrue things about them, that pissed me off. So I removed my photos and closed the account. ... Technically what Hotrod tractor is trying to do, because you can do it is why I left .... before photobucket went to pay accounts. This photo I was actually very annoyed. I was installing exterior lighting on a customers home after new stucco, Their daughters were in 4H and raising a chicken, the dog was chasing it and found me as a safe space. I really want the homeowner to put the chicken back in the cage, Oh just wait til I get my camera I got to have a photo ?

Is there some sort of nylon bushing that maybe grenaded and chewed up? Other then that possibility, looks like foreign material to me, possibly re builder was careless and left something in it. From your first post I pictured too much grease and a little oozing out .... the photo just looks wrong. A mystery.

No! A little grease on the bushing and gear ... almost looks like something got caught in there and chewed up. I would be tempted to disassemble and clean it ... and for the price of the kit PA listed might install it if needed. Thats my opinion, see what the correct answer turns out to be

When you do pull the hub, put axle nut back on and leave it loose. You will use a hammer to work the puller. I used a 3 pound sledge and did not swing it, just let the weight do the work tap tap tap. When it does pop lose, it will have great force behind it. The nut will prevent the drum from landing on the floor. When mine came loose in the photo above, the dog bone handle flew off and hit the side of my house. If I was sitting on the tire in front of it, would have hit me in the ribs. I also suggest standing to the side When installing it, I asked for some advice here in forum. clean the taper on the axle, light film of grease, and the nut goes tight. Think the torque specs is 165 pounds .... or as tight as your impact gun will get it. I could not find anything on torque specs in the manual and why I asked here. So wanted to pass that info to you.

This thread reminds me, my phone is sitting in the shop with a dead battery. If anyone called me and I not reply ... do not take it personal. I will go out and plug it in in the next day or so.

They are not to bad with the correct tool. These old vehicles have a tapered axle. You need a decent Hub puller to get them off easy ... while there are other home made tricks. Here is a photo of pulling my hub, I bought the puller off of ebay for about $80 and with shipping came to about $110 or so. But I pulled each hub in just a few min ... one of those tools you just need when you have a old car to maintain.

Yes the reds turned pink and the blacks turned gray. The directions do not say to add hardener, but somewhere along the way people decided it was better to add it.. I trust these peoples opinion because they have actually been there and done that. Even though the directions do not suggest to add the hardener. People just know better and do it anyways. I guess that is why I asked the question about primer and what others like to do. Read the directions is never a bad idea, but not always a complete idea.

I certainly respect your opinion for that. If Don could not do it, then no reason to bother Lisa. My wife would have no idea about a photobucket account, But if you told her you needed a password ... she knows we have 4 different passwords for everything and she knows them all. So it would be possible to figure it out if I were gone., But if Don could not ... I agree. Again just tossing ideas out there and I see my ideas wont work.

I understand that 100% While I have enjoyed Dons post here, I never knew him ... I was thinking if he had a surviving spouse or family member. You also need the password. I am sure pb would take your money, but the account would still be in Dons name and you would not have access to it, unless there was a family member to help. Thus my question that was not clear ... is there a possibility someone to help. I know you have purchased a car from Don ... maybe Don gave you access to the account for the photos. I also loathe the idea of paying them ... what is it ... $15 ... $20 vrs individual click and download? May be money well spent. If there is a family member you can talk to, explain what you want to do, they may offer to pay just so they can get a copy of photo's also?

I admit I cringed a little when you mentioned already 1k photos ... daunting task to even consider manually. Personally I would be skimming through them and cherry picking the ones I thought were significant. Is it even a possibility to pay the yearly fee and gain access/log into the account just to get the photos? I dunno just a thought.

Yeah been years since I have used photobucket. I am no help for specific photobucket issues. What happens if you right click on the image and copy it to your hard drive?

I have to admit the price seems fair at Eaton, and they have a long run of good quality reputation. I once had a old 1 ton work van with worn springs. I checked at a local spring shop in Spokane. Was a big shop and very busy, main work was semi trucks. This was 10 years ago. They said make a appointment, drop the van off, they would have it done in a few hours. $250 .... I thought the price was ridiculously low. I suppose they have the equipment & it takes them just a few min for them to pull the springs. Then the re-arching is mostly just labor ... so maybe price was reasonable. I never did get the work done. I always wondered just how long they would last after being arched. For a old 1 ton the thing just floated down the highway with worn springs and rode really nice. I ended up leaving them alone.

I really can not express how much I love the /6 and my history with them ... great engines. I do think is a poor choice for these cars. A shorter V8 would fit better ... the location of the distributor will be a pain for maintenance. Same time it has been done, have seen a truck for sale on craigslist with a /6. Just guessing you will find 10 v8 conversions for every 1, /6 conversion. Just not common. But if you have one sitting in the garage taking up space, it may be a decent choice.

Thats a good tip and will remember it, thank you. I think today will be 45 hours dry time and results will be much better. Yes sir I agree 100%. It should not need it. That also falls true for enamel paint. Does not "NEED" it, but it does improve it. @Plymouthy Adams schooled me on the top coat paint several months ago, about proper products to use. And to add hardener even though the directions do not suggest it. At napa buying the hardener, the kid behind the counter stated, I have used this paint many times, I never added hardener! .... Hrmm, probably not a bad idea though. I bet today he is adding hardener to it for his own use. Back when PA was helping me with the color coat, I was planning to not use primer and paint direct to metal like the factory did. And I never asked questions about primer. Now I realize how crappy my body working skills are, I need primer to assist me I need the primer soft and workable, and hardener would ... make it hard.

Never give up. I had a co-worker who was in their 50's. He got some sort of cancer and he gave up. He figured he was dead. He mortgaged his paid for family home, maxed out his credit cards, took 5 close friends on a vacation to Mexico ... then he lived. He could no longer work, filed for bankruptcy, sold the house to satisfy bankruptcy laws. He ended up living in a older travel trailer in a old rv park filled with crack heads ... Karma has a way to come back and bite you.

People just need to step up and prepare for this adventure .... nobody gets out of this world alive. I really felt sad for myself when my favorite uncle passed. He had basically a 2 acre junkyard of old cars and junk. It was a huge and daunting task for his children to dispose of. Uncle was in upper 80's. Oldest son was 64 and partially paralyzed from a stroke, next daughter is in worse health, youngest daughter in her 50's and a busy manager at her job. Lives 6 hours away. She has no time to deal with this. You get down to the nephew's, grandsons, nieces etc ... They are into cars .... They are building modern jeep rock crawlers, they have no interest in the old stuff. And they have a job and a life and no time to mess with this stuff. I was 1200 miles away and could not get involved. The 2 acres of property was actually in a prime location and would sell quickly once the junk was cleared off. 1957 chevy 2.5 ton truck with a hotrod 283 cam etc, 5spd transmission, 2 spd rear end starts runs stops .... $100 to scrap yard. 1952 chevy 2 ton rebuilt 235 motor with almost zero miles, Grampa built a extra heavy duty dual piston dump bed ... $100 to the scrap yard. 1957 packard clipper, 2 door hard top black & white, nice body paint interior, start and move, but had a rod knocking and needed rebuilt ... scrap yard. The engine room where all the goodies were kept, rebuilt 283 with less then 1k miles, rebuilt 312 y block with overdrive trans zero miles. There was a rebuilt 218 Plymouth flathead engine, Just one shed of many and was packed full of good stuff. They gave the contents away to someone with a trailer to haul off for scrap. I think they got about $200k for the house and property, everything else nobody could care less. Just get rid of everything quickly, so they could get this monster of a project off their backs. I think it is a really wise idea to deal with it yourself while you can.