rb1949

Remember, the unit is new, but not tested by me. Will pop it back out. For Chrysler, the number should read about 10Ω empty and 90Ω full. (?) Not getting any Ω reading across the 2 gauge terminals. Did not remove gauge yet to look for anything obnoxious. Jumping power from the Batt. Have not been able to track wire to gauge to identify lack of 6v, which should come from ign switch. DID find troubleshooting fuel in the manual. Describes AC & Ford/King-Seely single wire setups. Start over. That 'clump' of wires coming into the trunk seems to be heading downwards. Have not been underneath yet. Anyhow, I think they should be replaced. Will have to measure and contemplate making a 5 wire harness. Running it along the frame would not be a problem. Hooking it all up is a different story. Most of it seems to be 16GA wire.

Hey, nice ride. Worth every penny. Your trip will be memorable in more ways than one. Happy cruisin'.

People won't notice the rusty motor with that fine piece.

The single wire from the top of the unit to the back of the gauge tests OK. But did not see 6V on the other gauge terminal. Jumped a wire from the battery to that terminal, still nothing. Easy access in the trunk, pulled the unit. Unit to gauge - battery to gauge. Moved float, and nothing. Starting to look like a defective gauge, and may have to pop for one. With the unit out, should I test for resistance with the float up and down? New question: There are 5 wires that run to the rear lights. Are these under the car, by the driver rocker panel? They come up into the trunk, from somewhere.

I'll vote to use anything re-useable.

Achtung, das ist gut. Prost mit eine Bier. And that;'s my limited German. You're going to have some fun now.

Welcome. Have fun. A really nice outdoors day. Photos? Next time you start a post, look down in the lower right corner. a box 'More Reply Options'. Click it. On that screen you'll see an area near the bottom to "ATTACH" photos in your post right from your computer. Give it a try, we're waiting. And if you choose to 'Follow" a discussion, you'll get email notifications when a new comment is posted.

Welcome. Won't be long and you'll have it matching those fancy wheels. (Are those bolt on with stock brakes?) You did notice there is a "truck topic" area?

Thanks guys. Think this discussion has just added another project to my list for the '49 Chrysler. Will post elsewhere if questions arise.

Welcome. Enjoy your wheels, and the forum. Share your project, and ask away.

A body diagram sheet for P15,17,18,19,20,22,23,24 all body styles indicates deck lid handle for 1950 is #1478494.

http://www.ctcautoranch.com/Parts%20Cars/Mopar/1950's%20and%20Back/1950's%20and%20Back%20Sub-Pages/1950's%20and%20Back.html This scrap yard has pictures of 2 different '50 trunks, both with the handle(?), Anything look familiar?

If sockets are clean, keep them. 6V bulbs was more of a challenge. Got lucky at a local electrical supply house, who had the old books, and some bulbs. Good bet is online at "BulbTown". After I placed an order, wish I had found numbers for all the bulbs that would fit, and got extra of each in one shipment. Bulbs are like 50¢! Good luck on the project.

Haven't tried yet, but Advance Auto ordered me a cartridge filter. Same price, but no shipping. Will see soon. It is returnable.

After yesterday's refreshing 70, cooler is returning. No beach yet.

The caption says C-45 thru 1949, but the item is marked '50 T&C. Way different than mine, not enough arms. I had a pocket full of bolts for the anticipated repair. Didn't expect the fast action, so didn't have a camera for photos. Looking at the '49 body parts diagrams, the hood hinge assy is listed as P/N 1306800. PS: did have a '49 hinge replacement via a fellow member, but would have been 3-4 weeks wait. Now on to other important issues. Thanks for following along, and experienced advice.

SUCCESS. Hood hinge is repaired. The guy said bring it in for a look. Glad I picked today. Pulled it in the shop, he looked, and started grabbing wrenches. "Let's fix it." Holy Cow, didn't expect that! And yes, the '49 hinge does come off. Totally didn't notice a bracket attached to the hood with 2 bolts. (under the lip of the hood) Plus 2 bolts holding a hood cross-member to it. That made things easier. The bracket on the firewall had 1 bolt outside, 2 bolts from inside. Now you can remove the hinge. Clever action with multiple large tools got the bent arms back in shape. Lucky I did have the original "pin", which was put back and welded in place. (The pin doesn't turn, the bracket rotates on the 'shoulder"). They quickly reinstalled the hinge, made a few adjustments, and it works. Plus this was a body shop, making sure things were properly aligned. The investment for the repair saved me the hassle of fighting with it. Depends on what you consider is a savings for some projects. I'm happy. Hope this ordeal is helpful to someone else who may experience similar challenges.

20 years is great for an emblem find. Good job. Now what's next?

One of our parts stores (not one of the chains) offers hose making. Ask yours, maybe get a local referral.

Gosh DodgeB, thanks for telling me NOW! Guess it was due to snap, where ever I may have been. Starting to look quite dastardly, and may have to use a body shop. The arm did bend. GRRRR. Got multiple dimensions on the shoulder 'pin', which nothing matches. But have several clever ideas for a suitable replacement, which should improve the hookup. If others have experienced this on a '49, what was your repair solution? Since the hood will probably have to come off, might be a good time to 'repair/change' the other side as well. Will update how things go.

Love Spring, and the car.

Finished making the 'plates' to mount the new switches for the front doors.Ready to install. Snitched some LED's from a flashlight, put them in a bracket, and will wire up for an underhood light with a switch. Such goofy ideas. All was going well, until I tried to close the hood. BANG SNAP. The "pin" holding the spring arm to the body bracket came off. Dang, nice scratch in the fender. Found piece. It's a 'shoulder pin' and attached like a rivet, no threads. Anybody know the size? Will get measurements Monday. Will try to find a correct shoulder "bolt" to replace, or have to have one machined. The arms that attach to the hood are the same. (Rivets). To remove the hood, you loosen 3 bolts holding the spring assembly to the body, the hood comes off with the spring assembly still attached. Kinda dumb. So my first major repair. If you have tackled this, any comments welcome.

Good, now you don't have to buy new clips.

Thanks, getting behind with interior light repairs. Finally removed that cover plate in the trunk to expose the sending unit. As advised, jumped it to ground, but no movement in the fuel gauge. (key on). Probably next, track that wire up to the gauge for the connection, so cluster will have to come loose to find it. 2 wires on the gauge, power and unit? If all wires are good, does that indicate a bad gauge? Cold spell returning which will limit activity. Will advise/ask as things progress.