59bisquik

Leave it where she sits... looks great! Maybe I'm a bit biased though.

Sorry... mine was flipped over from putting it over in the corner. I looked through my pics and found this photo of my current setup. My arm is pretty far foreward and has plenty of room to engage the clutch. I am wondering what throw out bearing and carrier you have and if its installed right?

Your lever is on upside down... just checked my 230 and bell housing sitting in the garage.

Keep us updated and post plenty of pics. As for the ride, mine rode like a stiff old tractor. Now it’s a fairly smooth ride. I also got a little more smoothness and drop in ride height from the weight of the Hemi. Depending on how low you drop the front, as PT81 stated watch your steering arms. When you drop an axle like I did, you have to make sure the drag link stays level or you can get bump steer. So watch the closeness and angles. I had to bend on of my arms down 3” to get it all back to stock angles. I also did the spring shackle flip in the back at one time. I preferred the spring leaf reduction method better for the smoother ride. Another thing that will get you lower is spring shackles. Not sure if your older truck is like the B or C series. But a Willy’s shackle bolts right up and gives you another inch or so. They are a whopping $10 each from Rockauto Veraus $40 a piece for Dodge shackles. I did forget to mention that I have them in the back of my truck along with the missing leafs.

You can use a C clamp on either side of the bolt to keep the springs together and just cut the bolt head off. I would start by pulling the second from the bottom leaf and see how that works for you. If you need more, pull another. Just keep an eye on your bump stop clearance and oil pan clearance. Generally when removing leafs, you start at the second from the bottom and remove every other one until satisfied. I have new springs all around and here is what I did. I did a Sids 3" drop front axle (which I know you were not interested in), and then removed the second from the bottom spring. In the back I went from 7 leaves to 3 or 4 if memory serves. I have about 6" drop all around.

How about a vintage soda cooler?

I put mine as low as I could get it and also got one in black. I didn't want anyone to notice my one wire alt. You really have to stick your head under the hood to see it down there. You could put it on the other side by the fuel pump.

Try to get that alternator down low and hidden.

The numbers off the front of the block would tell the story as the guys said. It could be a 315 or possibly a 325. However, being a truck motor it is gonna be around 7:1 compression and have small sodium filled valves. I just went through that with my 325 out of a truck. Car Chart DODGE: D44 - 1001 1953 Red Ram 241 2 140 D50A - 1001 1954 Red Ram 241 2 140 D50 (1, 2, 3) 1954 Red Ram 241 2 150 D553 - 1001 1955 Super Red Ram 270 2 or 4 183 or 193 D500 - 1001 1956 D500 315 4 260 KD500 - 1001 1957 D500 325 4 or 2-4 285 or 310 Truck Chart D8-D4,K8-D5,D8-D6 1957 Dodge Truck 315 N/A N/A S4,S5,S6 1957 Dodge Truck 315 N/A N/A K8-D7,D8-D8,C5,D6,C7 1957 Dodge Truck 331 N/A N/A P3,P4,S7,W5,T7,T8 1957 Dodge Truck 331 N/A N/A D8-D9,T9 1957 Dodge Truck 354 N/A N/A K8-D7,K8-D8,C7,T7,T8 1957 Dodge Truck 354 N/A N/A

I think of used tires when I deal with my trailer or motorhome. They might look brand new but could be 10 years old. Just think of where those used tires are coming from and off of. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the new ones.

The inline has alot of potential but just needs some upgrades. How about a Ford 300 inline with a Chevy LS head, long tubes and a pile of 2bbls... Also, there is a member on this board that has a SBC head on a 4 cylinder dodge flathead. I imagine this same thing could be done for a 6 cylinder version.

I dont remember the width of the stock rear end. With the offset I went with on mine running 225/60/17's, I has to roll the front and rear fender lips for clearance. I can just get my fingers between the wheel and fender in the back.

The pin you are trying to get out is not threaded. It’s just held in but the cross bolt that is already removed in your picture. Might try some heat or an air hammer if it is that stuck.

The back of the tank should mount to the bottom of the rear crossmember. It should stick up a little bit over the frame if I remember correctly. The bed cross rail sits on a 3/4" thick pad to space it off the frame and provide a bit of cushion. I will look at my pics to verify.

Pics would help a lot. It does rest really tight to the frame rail.

Thanks! I just had to hassle you a bit. Mine is definitely a 10 footer with quite a bit of character. However, you will see no dolls or car hop window trays with plastic food.

Old enough to paint it yellow and run those wheels?!

Its more of a 10 footer... there are lots of scratches and dings or as I call them character....

I will agree with 4mula... head down to Napa or the hardware store and match it up. It might take a bit of trial and error to get the right tension, but springs are fairly inexpensive.

Yup... it goes through the metal bed rail, the wood and to the 3 support rails. The other bolts on the bed rail just go through the wood and have a washer.

I go to lots of shows and have never gotten that type of treatment. However, I normally avoid the high dollar shows where most of the cars are bought and trailered in.

I dont remember if there is an access hole behind it in the frame. However, the pin is threaded and I used a slide hammer to remove mine.

Look in the phone book for a local powder coater. They will have a couple dozen shades of yellow (just like a paint shop). The powder coat holds up a long time and will look much better than rattle can.